|
Post by paddymk2 on May 21, 2020 3:02:05 GMT
So my thoughts were: (A) Get the car back!, wiggle the offending connection and hope it comes good... (B) Get a replacement alternator, then dismantle and tinker with the Email unit. The Email alternator is made under license (not Lucas or Bosch) and comes from a time when Australian content rules were highest. It would be nice to keep it. On the other hand I saw this attachment A2.pdf (47.59 KB) at the other site and thought that would be cost effective swap. There are plenty of Mitusbishi Magnas around (they were the 3rd Car in Australia for a couple of decades.) Paddy
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on May 19, 2020 13:10:20 GMT
Hi that was very interesting. i got hold of the $43 meter (smaller and less buttons than the $8.50 one) i screw clamped the test wire to the b-terminal and scratched the contact point on the alternator casing. Result: bright light and a flicker between 0,01 and 0.00V
But on the second test the resistance was as low as 7.9 ohms but it was easy to wiggle the spade connector ever so slightly and get it to jump to 37 or 55 ohms. im wondering if thats the dodgey link. the batterys on charge tonight fingers crossed for mr gearbox tomorrow.
cheers paddy
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on May 19, 2020 3:24:46 GMT
Hi NIck I 'll borrow or get hold of a better multimeter - the short test was as good as I've seen it on that device. Paddy
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on May 18, 2020 13:08:11 GMT
Hi Nick Yes I missed the AC measurement and I didn't hold the wire there long during yesterday's test - I think it was more glowing than bright This evening I measure the voltage as per test 5 - It fluctuated a bit but was around 0.45V
- The bulb was glowing very bright like in your bright pic
- The resistance at fld was 14.6ohm (15.5ohm - 0.9ohm) for the ohmmeter.
Thanks for the help
Paddy
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on May 17, 2020 12:39:44 GMT
Hi Just a little bit of background to explain the situation better. The auto transmission was slipping and to save costs I agreed to take out the engine. (There's a first time for everything - call it learning) It took a longtime to get all the parts including gaskets and a cracked servo and then the Lockdown. I put the engine back reconnected it and put in fluids. Unfortunately most of the transmission fluid leaked out again AND i can't move the gear selector. So I need to bring the car back to the transmission shop. I'm in neutral/park but I'm not comfortable running up the engine for longer than a few minute or so. I'll bring it to the transmission guy on weds - and I'm hoping to drive it the 20 minute home!
That said, it should be ok to check for lead continuity by connecting one end of the lead with the bulb to the B-terminal on the alternator and the other end to the lead just disconnected from the B terminal (?) Paddy
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on May 17, 2020 7:09:43 GMT
Just got back from Autobarn with a 21W bulb and tried that.
With the ignition on and the field and aux connector removed and replaced with the test wire with 21W bulb
The initial voltage was 12.8V with nothing on - this fell to 12.5V at the ignition on but engine not started (it drifted a little lower) With engine running I was at 12.60V
When I tapped the other side of the test wire to the positive battery terminal I got 12.69 to 12.75V This was reproducible in that there was an increase in voltage of 0,1 to 0,15V And the bulb filament did glow.
I was alone - so I couldn't see what the charge indicator lamp was doing.
A couple of other points (a) The lamp has come on a few times when I've been starting the car - its previously always gone out after a bit of revs. (b) Occasionally I find it hard to restart this car - I'd always put that down to some kind of vapour lock (as per other discussions) (c) The engine has not been tuned - but the engine was out with repair to the gear box - not much was altered other than the cables (choke, kick down etc.) (d) In the manual it talks about bringing the revs up to 1700 or higher - I'm not doing anything like that for these tests.
Regards Paddy
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on May 16, 2020 12:00:23 GMT
Thanks Dave I did use a bulb from a rear indicator bulb - that should be 21W (but its an old bulb & holder with dual filament so maybe its not right.)
You mean, check the voltage output at the alternator in case there is some drop across the starter solenoid? I'll have another go.
Paddy
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on May 16, 2020 6:45:48 GMT
Hi Dave Yes I did check the continuity from the alternator casing to the battery. And from the b-post to the battery I had initially assumed it would be just a loose connection (and may still be)
So Nick I did the test with the lamp (rear light)
I charged the battery before the tests - and was reading 12.9V before starting the car. I started the car once before the test - just to make sure it would start when doing the test. My helper ("her-in-doors") started the car Initially the voltage fell to 12.6V When I touched the cable to the positive the voltage didn't seem to move. It didn't go down to 12.3 or up to 14V(?) I noticed there was glow on the lamp filament - not bright but something So I don't know why the bulb would light if there was no voltage? I only had a few minutes before the boss had to leave - but my son should swing by this evening - so I could have another go (I had the multimeter probes clipped onto the battery so may want another go.)
Regards Paddy
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on May 14, 2020 11:35:22 GMT
Thanks for all that instructions and safety advice. Stop and think through is what i’m hearing. And that means tidy the garage and make a bit more safe space. ill keep you updated. ill have to gather a few bits for Saturday morning. The alternator ground (casing) was good, by the way.
i was also wondering if there was possibly a leaky connection through some other component. like if i turned on the ignition key but didn’t start the car? like that solenoid switch? (a couple of times last year, when i turned the key, there was nothing, not a click or any lights, and a wiggle at that unit brought on the lights and then the car started. thanks anyway. paddy
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on May 13, 2020 13:40:56 GMT
Thanks for doing all that. And thanks for the reminder about the multimeter. I was getting only 2.2 ohms on the meter test, but if i wasn’t careful the ohms went up to 10 or so. So across the control box was 2.2 ohms so we can call that zero. The RH screwed on contact had a bit of rust that i cleaned off. It was harder to see the condition of the LH spade connector and i really only got to brighten up the tab at that side. i measured continuity (2.2 ohms)for both parts of the T connector to their respective connectors for the control box. i tried starting the car again, but pretty much the same as before, voltage drop from 12.65v to 12.3v when starting and the red charge warning light stays on. On the positive side, the interior cabin light started working, mmm, maybe there’s some other leakage?
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on May 12, 2020 13:24:31 GMT
Hi Nick, This is an email type with separate control box. i cleaned up some of the contacts. i had low resistance from the bpost contact to the battery connector. and about 7 ohms from the fld and aux to the control box connector. The fld and aux connectors are both connected to gnd with around 15ohms. Does that seem right? i need to work through the wiring diagrams in the manual. cheers paddy
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on May 10, 2020 12:04:06 GMT
Thanks Nick Yes, it was working before. The main output contacts looks good. But the wires going to the connector could be checked. Those contacts could do with good clean - thanks for the encouragement. The voltage regulator could be the issue also. It could also do with a clean.
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on May 9, 2020 23:51:21 GMT
Hi Guys Hope you're all keeping well and getting some projects done. I recently had the engine out to repair the gearbox. When restarting the battery charge light came on. I checked the voltage across the battery - getting 12.65V engine off. But when I turned on the engine (it took a bit to start it) but getting 12.36V I checked the contacts and alternator belt - everything looks good. Is there some way to isolate the alternator and check it? Its a 1969 Mark II and I'm in Adelaide. Cheers Paddy
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on Oct 18, 2019 1:53:47 GMT
Hi Ross - where did you find the parts? Paddy
|
|
|
Post by paddymk2 on Sept 15, 2019 12:24:23 GMT
Thanks Dave- well the engine and transmission are out as one unit and delivered carefully to the transmission guy. It was one of those things where doing it the second time (I hope note!) would be a lot easier :Just how to jiggle and what to hit hard.
Looking across the site the BW35TA seems to be reported as mostly the same as the BW35 standard as using here in several locally made cars.
For the unique TA gaskets, there are some PDFs with scaling factors at the AMVCNSW 1800
(site.http://www.amvcnsw.com.au/austin1800/Service_Gaskets.html)
I was wondering if any of these gaskets are directly available in the UK? Or if anyone has translated the PDF image into a dxf cad file that could be sent to a local laser cutter with a sheet of gasket material?
Best regards
Paddy
|
|