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Post by andrewa on Mar 9, 2017 10:25:42 GMT
You're not a philosopher by any chance?
You are absolutely right - I need to change my perspective and embrace the aural one-ness with the car!
Thank you for the counselling.
Cheers
Andrew
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Post by tommydp on Mar 9, 2017 11:41:29 GMT
Can't say I find the 1800 noisy for a more than 50 yrs old car design. Apart from some exhaust roar at speed, it's rather quiet I'd say. Even the engine.
I noticed quite a difference when I put in new sound deadening mats, from modern material. The original mats often come lose from the bulkhead, behind the dash. Also, checking grommets and the heater intake drain tubes is a good idea, and make sure the pads on the bonnet hinges actually close the holes on the firewall. One thing often overlooked is the spare multiplug holes on the fuseboard, the two on the right. Cut a piece of rubber and place behind the socket, to cover the holes for extra therminals.
Finally, a lot of noise is transmitted through the fresh air ducting and vents. Make sure the vents close. A sound deadening mat on the boot floor and behind the rear seat can bring the exhaust roar down.
Another alternative: turn the radio up:-)
Tommy
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Post by Admin on Mar 9, 2017 14:40:50 GMT
Merged these two threads together - it makes a bit more sense that way. There are three cars with this bearing running (two are mine) and haven't had any issues so far, certainly no noises to be heard!
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 14, 2017 19:14:47 GMT
Had a look at the very first one at the weekend, as it's been removed from the Gold Seal engine.  Still silent, no play. The face plate appears to have polished off the turning marks. It's done about 7k miles. Chris. |
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Post by charlypm on Oct 29, 2017 1:42:22 GMT
So I'm back after a long hiatus, I've been working on many projects, house buildings, cars, racing, daughters house etc.
As I was completing my work on the Landcrab a couple of years ago, I decided to pull the head and have a valve job done, this was precipitated by a leaky head gasket. when I had bolted the head back down and started the car it made a horrible noise. I pulled the plugs and found one plug electrode mangled. Upon investigation through the spark plug hole I could see a hole in the piston.
This meant a large step backwards, so I pulled the motor and rebuilt it. I upped the performance a little, put on a lcb header, the tranny looked pretty good, put in a new clutch. Upon reinstallation and starting and breaking in, I found the clutch would not disengage. I assumed it was not a long enough throw and made an adjustable pushrod for the slave cylinder and that didn't seem to help. Today I decided to take it to a muffler shop and have a new exhaust system made to fit my lcb header, 1 3/4" pipe. I was thinking about trailering it and I warmed up the motor and then started it in gear. I drove it around the block and discovered that the clutch was disengaging after about 2" of pedal movement and then re-engaging if I kept pushing down to the floor. This would be somehow overextending the clutch and binding it up. I had also put a longer pushrod on the clutch mc thinking I needed more movement, I'll be going back to the original on the mc.
Has anyone experienced this situation with their Landcrab?
My thought is to make some sort of stop for the clutch arm to keep it from overextending, This thread shows an arm with a stop and spring, but I think this keeps the clutch arm from receding to much. Also does any one have the proper length for the clutch slave cylinder push rod, the original one from my car had been welded on and I don't know where to start for the proper length.
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 30, 2017 11:38:32 GMT
The more common problem was the clutch not disengaging completely with the pedal on the floor. This was due to a variety of reasons including the carpet fouling, worn crankshaft thrust bearings and BMC confusion. Over the years there were shims used between the m/c and bulkhead or not, different height clutch covers and different length push rods and crbs. There was a good article on the old Oz website but I can't locate it at present, but is probably more of academic interest in your case.
It is the throw of the master cylinder that is important. First thing is to replace the extended m/c pushrod and then adjust the pedal by adding / removing the packing between the m/c and bulkhead so that the clutch disengages with the pedal about 1" off the floor.
I won't suggest thicker carpet!
Hope this is helpful,
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 30, 2017 17:42:04 GMT
Also check cylinder sizes. 5/8" master, 1" slave. Slave push rod is still available - 22B65 from Moss. Master cylinder push rods were 17H4007, 37H7308 and 37H7379. They seem to be split by serial numbers, but early/middle/late is a starting point. First two come up with results on Google, last one, nothing.
Chris.
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 31, 2017 6:24:38 GMT
Just wondering if you had visually checked what is happening to the slave cylinder as the peddle is pressed. Could you have a problem with the master cylinder? Does the master cylinder pedal travel follow the slave cylinder travel? Ie the more you press the more it moves. If the little valve in the master cylinder is leaking when you press the peddle the slave cylinder moves but the fluid leaks past the valve back into the resovior, causing it to release again. The rate depends on the size of the leak. Perhaps it leaks only in the last section of travel. May be worth checking if you haven already!
Nick
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 1, 2017 3:27:43 GMT
Does anyone here know the throw of the slave cylinder push rod or can someone please measure it. That way, if my thinking is correct, it should exclude all the other possible variations. Sorry I don't have a car here currently.
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 1, 2017 11:17:14 GMT
Might be able to get some results on that tomorrow.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 2, 2017 17:25:11 GMT
That was surprisingly awkward....
VOF (A1800 MkII) - clutch rod moves out ½".
GLE (W18/85 MkII) - couldn't measure accurately, but the travel looked about the same.
Chris.
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Post by tommydp on Nov 2, 2017 21:02:10 GMT
Hi!
Keep the slave cylinder pushrod length as original.
I posted a scan from a service bulletin here once about measuring for correct pedal travel. If I recall correctly the distance from underside of pedal in a straight line to where it hits the floor should be around 17 cm. Carpet removed.
There were changes made to the diameters of the clutch pressure plate/cover and clutch disc. Mismatch of parts can make the clutch inoperative.
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Nov 2, 2017 21:24:23 GMT
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Post by tommydp on Nov 2, 2017 21:26:04 GMT
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 3, 2017 9:07:14 GMT
Thanks Tommy. I agree the first thing is to get the pedal height movement correct using the shims as suggested if necessary.
Check the slave push rod movement agrees with Chris' measurement, if not you need to establish the cause. If there is a mismatch of clutch components you may be able to ensure proper operation by adjusting the shims so that you get the engagement as per my earlier post.
Worth checking the crankshaft endfloat by pressing hsrd against the pulley then depressing the clutch to see how far the pulley moves forwards, obviously a two person exercise. If there is too much endfloat it will affect the above measurements as some of the movement will be used in moving the crank.
David
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