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Post by peppib on Aug 30, 2015 13:18:56 GMT
Driving to pub for lunch. Huge queue of traffic en route. Part way through the stop/start, the footbrake pedal went to floor No place to stop without causing traffic jam, and we were only doing walking pace so drove on handbrake.
Traffic eventually cleared so as the road was now empty I drove to pub and parked - food more important than investigating. Came out from pub and checked fluid level - all OK. Pressed pedal and the brakes were working
Home safely - so what happened?? Is it possible that the rubber on the piston in the master cylinder softened in the heat and didn't move the fluid and then once cool again started working normally? I have no other explanation. Car won't be going anywhere until I can sort it
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 30, 2015 23:06:46 GMT
Mmm - valve at the bottom of the master cylinder, perhaps?
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 31, 2015 0:42:59 GMT
It does sound like that. Maybe some dirt blocking the fluid return that then cleared itself when standing - the return hole is very small. I think you need to take the m/s apart and fit new seals and flush out the system completely. Lucky you were going very slowly applying an umbrella style handbrake as an emergency brake isn't the easiest. David Mmm - valve at the bottom of the master cylinder, perhaps? Chris.
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Post by peppib on Aug 31, 2015 7:55:08 GMT
Thanks Chris and David. Master cylinder will be off (I do have a repair kit .... somewhere) as soon as I am well enough and work out how I will be able to get into the footwell to remove the split pin. Have to be careful as the last pedal I did was the clutch, thought I had the pin in OK only for it to fall out on the A1 (M) on a Friday afternoon in a rainstorm en route to a show in Lichfield. Had broken ribs at the time (Rach flung me against a sharp corner whilst in a siezure) so couldn't get down there. The Highways Agency blokes who parked behind me, welcome hazards flashing, were both too big so it was an RAC job. They sent a local garage and it took an hour and a half for chap to arrive, less than 5 minutes to refit pin, then we were on our way. 4 hours from Newcastle to Wetherby and a welcome cuppa..
Looks like I will miss Ryedale (Really unwell at the moment having fitted a wing to my Merc last Monday and the essential job of fitting 2 new motors and gearboxes to my wheelchair on Wednesday. Need at least a couple of weeks rest before I can start again)
Dave
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 31, 2015 10:11:30 GMT
Dave, sorry to hear you're not too well again. You do need to be a bit of a contortionist to get to those split pins. I found that removing the driver's seat first is well worth the effort. Regards David Master cylinder will be off (I do have a repair kit .... somewhere) as soon as I am well enough and work out how I will be able to get into the footwell to remove the split pin. Dave
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Post by peppib on Aug 31, 2015 13:39:49 GMT
Thanks for that David. Drivers seat is easy enought to remove (4 bolts IIRC) Bit of a b..... to put back though. Last time I had passenger seat out I could only refit 3 bolts. Ordered another repair kit, then went to car and found I already had 2 of the things (yes, I actually found something in all the clutter - before his recent clean up Chris' garage was more organised than my boot and door pockets) I was talking to a mate who doesn't know one end of a spanner from the other but has 4 classic cars (and a Nissan Micra), and he has offered to come and help in the morning. Getting low on Dot4 so went to Halfrauds - £12 for a bottle Am sure it wasn't that price when I last bought some. Bank holiday so the trade suppliers are closed. At least with my wheelchair repaired I can sit at the picnic table I use as a bench whilst I clean the unit and replace the seals.
Dave
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Post by peppib on Sept 1, 2015 12:11:48 GMT
Had the master cylinder off, cleaned, new seals, return hole cleared and ...... it doesn't work. No idea why. Hunt starting for new master cylinder
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 1, 2015 14:52:52 GMT
Dave, if it's still on the car it may be worth removing the brake pipe, blocking off the m/s outlet and pushing the brake pedal down just to make sure that the problem is within the master cylinder and not something amiss with the servo. Having cleaned it out and replaced the seals I'm scratching my head as to what could be wrong. regards David Had the master cylinder off, cleaned, new seals, return hole cleared and ...... it doesn't work. No idea why. Hunt starting for new master cylinder
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Post by peppib on Sept 1, 2015 17:55:11 GMT
David I filled the resevoir with fluid without connecting the brake line and pressed and released the pedal. Usually the level goes down slightly as the fluid goes into the barrel. This time - nothing. Pumping the pedal produced very little pressure at the threaded junction for the brake pipe and certainly did not alter the fluid level. I have found an inexpensive used part so will refurbish that and try again. After that I will be really scratching my head. I have no idea of the workings of the servo
My assistant for the day, the one who removed the split pin, is now away on holiday til next week so I should be well enough to continue the battle then
Dave
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Footbrake
Sept 1, 2015 21:15:39 GMT
via mobile
Post by peppib on Sept 1, 2015 21:15:39 GMT
Just realised what I did wrong today. Will put it right if I am well enough tomorrow and IF madam will operate the brake pedal for me. Memory isn't what it was I'm afraid. Feel like a pillock now
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 2, 2015 0:35:37 GMT
I have that T-shirt too! regards David Just realised what I did wrong today. Will put it right if I am well enough tomorrow and IF madam will operate the brake pedal for me. Memory isn't what it was I'm afraid. Feel like a pillock now
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Post by peppib on Sept 10, 2015 17:35:13 GMT
Well, the replacement master cylinder arrived and I fitted a new set of rubbers etc. Fitted it today (the old fluid looked like Indian ink) Thankfully it works fine
Don't know if anyone else does this, but if it is just the master cylinder being worked on, before refittig the pipe, fill the master cylinder with fuid, depress the brake pedal and keep it depressed until brake pipe is attached (if i am on my own I use a heavy tool box for the purpose) On release of the pedal, any air that has got into the pipe is sucked out and bubbles up through the fluid in master cylinder. No need to crawl underneath and bleed (which nowadays is a real problem for me)
Great pedal so thought I would take her out. She, however, had taken a huff having been left for over 2 weeks and wouldn't start That will have to wait until I recover a bit. It is only 3 weeks since I last set the points (Magnum box used instead of fag packet) and she WAS running perfectly. She will probably start first time I go to her. Typcal awkward female
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 11, 2015 0:32:44 GMT
Hi Dave
Thanks for the tip on avoiding having to bleed the brakes after changing the m/s. I appreciate your predicament but it does sound to me as though you should renew the fluid when possible to avoid corrosion etc if it's turned black.
Hope you can get the car started soon!
regards
David
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Post by peppib on Sept 11, 2015 14:38:43 GMT
Hi David
All the brake fluid will be changed when chap I used to restore cars with (25 years my junior) has time. He has his own fabrication/welding business now and is snowed under with work. In the meantime the car is still useable. Went down to her today with multimeter and found battery on that was flat. Put key in and turned it anyway - and she fired up first touch without choke. Awkward b.....
Dave
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 11, 2015 15:46:38 GMT
Got minds of their own sometimes! Well done.
Chris.
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