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Post by min16i on Feb 26, 2015 9:17:46 GMT
Hi All,
Just wondering if anyone could let me know what they are using for a heavier duty clutch?
I'm going to need to pull the engine out of my Mk1 soon to replace a failed rear main oil seal so I might as well do a few upgrades as I go.
I'll change the crank bearings whilst I'm there since it's such a great job to pull the engine out, especially since mine has to come out through the bottom as the extractors get in the way.
Anything else worth changing while I have it apart, was thinking a new cam and maybe some of the flash looking balanced conrods I have seen on the Internet of late.
I have to get the block decked and I'll get the head checked for flatness while I'm going as the old girl has a habit of blowing head gaskets between 3 and 4.
Ian
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Post by Penguin45 on Feb 26, 2015 18:10:27 GMT
I'm not aware of an up-graded clutch. AndrewA might be able to add something here as he's built an 1800 racing car.  Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 27, 2015 1:21:43 GMT
Hi Ian Not sure what mods you have that require the engine to be dropped out; either way I agree it's worth doing more while it's out. Just a few thoughts: The cylinder head gasket often fails between 3/4. Partly the design but can also be attributed to people not replacing head studs after they've been undone and tightened several times as they can lose their elasticity and no longer exert the correct pressure. Some well known experts recommend Payen gaskets. I've also seen a mod where the gasket is reinforced with a strand of copper wire between the cylinders but can't find the video link at the moment. The head is more likely to need refacing than the block in my experience. As far as the leaking rear main oil seal is concerned, have you checked that the crankcase ventilation system (probably PCV in Australia)is working. If blocked it will build up pressure and blow oil via the seals. There was a BMC/BL competition clutch but have a look at the articles on the clutch in Tony C's website if you've not already done so. You need to have the clutch cover, plate, slave cylinder and pushrods all matched. Remember the weak link is the release bearing and a heavier clutch may cause (even more) premature wear. No comment about conrods on the internet. You've heard of the Big bang Theory  . Engine balance is worthwhile though. The camshaft depends on what you are after. Early Mk1 UK cars had a slightly hotter cam (exhaust timing 51,21) that was good for higher speed cruising. If running twin carbs the MGB cam is a good compromise but if you want something hotter have a read of Andrew A's thread 1800S. If you're going that far maybe you need to consider a complete engine overhaul? Changing bearings is only worthwhile other than short term if the crank isn't worn and trying to get more power from an old worn engine often isn't money and time well spent. Maybe you could post some pics if you have time. Regards David Hi All, Just wondering if anyone could let me know what they are using for a heavier duty clutch? I'm going to need to pull the engine out of my Mk1 soon to replace a failed rear main oil seal so I might as well do a few upgrades as I go. I'll change the crank bearings whilst I'm there since it's such a great job to pull the engine out, especially since mine has to come out through the bottom as the extractors get in the way. Anything else worth changing while I have it apart, was thinking a new cam and maybe some of the flash looking balanced conrods I have seen on the Internet of late. I have to get the block decked and I'll get the head checked for flatness while I'm going as the old girl has a habit of blowing head gaskets between 3 and 4. Ian |
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Post by andrewa on Feb 27, 2015 9:30:06 GMT
Received wisdom is that the standard 8" diameter clutch plate can be replaced with 8 1/2 " one from a Triumph Dolomite - it's one of those things that people mention but I've yet to meet anyone that's done it! Great help I know...
I stuck with standard and do give the car some stick but I try and be gentle with the clutch and get it to do as little work as possible!
Don't know what you intend doing with the car other than driving around - my view would be either pick up another engine all done for not much money or go the other way and pull what you've got apart, check and replace anything that's not to tolerance and get the individual bits balanced and off you go. Use quality bits from someone you can go back to if/when it all goes wrong.
The above v.much IMHO (!) although a decent gas flowed head and an HR270 cam is a nice combo!!!
Trouble is once you start....
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Post by min16i on Feb 27, 2015 21:56:00 GMT
Thanks All,
Looks like I started in the right direction all those years ago.
Already have an MGB cam, ported and flowed head with twin HS6's.
I'm sure the last time round I used a Ford Transit clutch plate, so the Dolomite one might be about the same.
I think I might err on the safe side and not disturb the bottom end, it ain't broke after all.
I'll sort my oil slick out and change the clutch plate over, replace the head studs, put it back together and drive it like I have been.
Is it possible to get a block decked with the pistons in?
ian
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Post by Penguin45 on Feb 28, 2015 0:57:27 GMT
I rather doubt you can deck it with the pistons in. They'll want to bed and true the engine block on the bottom flange before machining, so the crank will have to go anyway. If you go that far, it's a moments work to pull the pistons. It's a "B" series engine, BTW. It will mark its territory, no matter what you do.......  Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 28, 2015 1:14:41 GMT
Hi Ian In theory yes, but not I would not advise it as every orifice would need to be blocked and cleaned out thoroughly. The risk of something nasty would appear firly high/ Have a read of this hereFirst thing is to find out if the head or block actually needs resurfacing. There are quite a few references to using copper wire to prevent blow through between cylinders and it appears to have come from a John Twist video but I can't spot it. Lots of discussions both in favour and otherwise as usual. David Is it possible to get a block decked with the pistons in? ian |
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. Engine balance is worthwhile though.
