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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 27, 2014 18:11:47 GMT
Looking like a beautiful car, Tony.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 28, 2014 2:41:39 GMT
I'm curious as to the box with the ducts in the boot. Is is a rear window demister? regards David
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Post by tony on Aug 28, 2014 4:29:40 GMT
David
If you are talking about the black item at the upper part of boot. It's an Evaporator -- the rear air conditioning system. There is another one in the front, before the passenger. These use the same compressor.
It's hot here. Father added them when she arrived to Taiwan. So they are old enough, still working. In fact father imported this kind of products from Japan in 1970s and installed on many vehicles here.
Regards
Tony
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Post by tony on Aug 28, 2014 4:42:57 GMT
Looking like a beautiful car, Tony. Chris. I have read your thread --- 1970 Austin 1800 MKII. I must say that you're brilliant. Regards. Tony
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 28, 2014 9:29:42 GMT
Hi Tony Now I can see the compressor on your engine; I assume the alternator is mounted below - I'm trying to make out if you have double pulleys on the crankshaft? I've never seen two evaporators, very impressive. It's very hot here so my interest in the installation is more than academic. As far as the orange electronic ignition unit I concerned, I have seen units here in Thailand on modified classic cars that look very similar. Do you have any more details how the are triggered and whether they use the original distributor etc? regards David David If you are talking about the black item at the upper part of boot. It's an Evaporator -- the rear air conditioning system. There is another one in the front, before the passenger. These use the same compressor. It's hot here. Father added them when she arrived to Taiwan. So they are old enough, still working. In fact father imported this kind of products from Japan in 1970s and installed on many vehicles here. Regards Tony
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Post by tony on Aug 28, 2014 13:48:18 GMT
David Sorry! Our Morris is gone for the waxing. She'll be back within a few days. I'll try to take more pictures. So right now I cannot get the right real name of the orange electronic ignition. I got the wiring diagram of it about two years ago online, but lost it. I'll try to find it again online --- key words : its brand's name and wiring diagram. As far as I know, this unit ( shall call it amplifier ) receives the signal from the original point (works like crank sensor), then the unit sends signal to ignition coil. Quite simple! So if this unit fails, you can just reconnect your own original harnesses together. But it never fails. I've seen once on the other vehicle, the ground wire was not tightened enough with engine running. If you wiggle the wire, which will cause the unit to die suddenly, can't be repaired any more. this is our compressor just below the oil filter. Yes, double pulleys on the crankshaft! there are a condenser and fans for the rear evaporator. The rear system has got its own switch although it shares the compressor with the front system. The alternator still locates at its place, but behind it there is a power pump linking to it. Regards Tony Hi Tony Now I can see the compressor on your engine; I assume the alternator is mounted below - I'm trying to make out if you have double pulleys on the crankshaft? I've never seen two evaporators, very impressive. It's very hot here so my interest in the installation is more than academic. As far as the orange electronic ignition unit I concerned, I have seen units here in Thailand on modified classic cars that look very similar. Do you have any more details how the are triggered and whether they use the original distributor etc? regards David
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Post by tony on Aug 28, 2014 14:42:34 GMT
continue telling the story. Just made an invoice about the door seals and window seal from Anthony Wood. Parents went to the central city so there was a text drive after the repair. Of cause, doors were able to be closed. On the way back near our garage, there was a big annoying noise coming from the AT while accelerating. Back to the garage, father and I tried to make sure where it came from. Father was very sure the location and told me about the primary drive chain, which he did the modification on the original sprockets and changed the chain about 20 years ago. But last time there was no any noise, just suddenly less power. I sent Tony a mail about this problem and the need of putting off the previous deal and to wait for the answer from me again. Next day the whole engine plus AT was removed out ( I know there is someone here who has shown how to only remove the AT out. ) Father starts to remove parts in order to get the engine and AT out. We found the cause like father said before. The teeth of two sprockets were worn out and the chain had become loose. Got the answer and the new require was carried out. A good news from Tony again --- he found the parts we needed.
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Post by tony on Aug 28, 2014 14:59:32 GMT
The Morris was put like this for us to remove the engine plus AT out. We also had to remove starter, alternator, power pump, coil, and so on. The compressor with its pipes still connected.
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Post by tony on Aug 28, 2014 15:22:36 GMT
The front left side. The front right side. Master brake removed with its pipe connected. The electronic fans are not needed any more because there has been a wrong guess we made last Summer. We drove her for half an hour and the engine's temperature got hotter, hadn't reached the hot area. We thought we had just installed a new water pump for a few months before, which shouldn't be. No water leaks. Enough coolant. As of the hot Summer??? Anyway, father added the fans, which still didn't help much. Old school ideas! When hotter, drive her to a nearby garage and lift her up. Found the cause --- the front two brake fluid l hoses problem --- front brake gradually pressured fluid was unable to return to the master brake system when the brake is released. Tony ps: about time I went to sleep! Have a good time and night to everyone!
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 29, 2014 1:13:10 GMT
Hi Tony Thanks for the info. I'm sure Chris would be interested in an electronic ignition system that is reliable as he is our champion for destructive testing The most reliable unit I ran also used the contact breakers as the trigger and the unit lasted for >100,000 miles. It only finally failed when I transferred it to another car and was too lazy to provide a separate power feed to the electronics from the one that fed the coil, so the back EMF weakened it. regards David David Sorry! Our Morris is gone for the waxing. She'll be back within a few days. I'll try to take more pictures. So right now I cannot get the right real name of the orange electronic ignition. I got the wiring diagram of it about two years ago online, but lost it. I'll try to find it again online --- key words : its brand's name and wiring diagram. As far as I know, this unit ( shall call it amplifier ) receives the signal from the original point (works like crank sensor), then the unit sends signal to ignition coil. Quite simple! So if this unit fails, you can just reconnect your own original harnesses together. But it never fails. I've seen once on the other vehicle, the ground wire was not tightened enough with engine running. If you wiggle the wire, which will cause the unit to die suddenly, can't be repaired any more. View Attachmentthis is our compressor just below the oil filter. Yes, double pulleys on the crankshaft! View Attachmentthere are a condenser and fans for the rear evaporator. The rear system has got its own switch although it shares the compressor with the front system. View AttachmentThe alternator still locates at its place, but behind it there is a power pump linking to it. Regards Tony Hi Tony Now I can see the compressor on your engine; I assume the alternator is mounted below - I'm trying to make out if you have double pulleys on the crankshaft? I've never seen two evaporators, very impressive. It's very hot here so my interest in the installation is more than academic. As far as the orange electronic ignition unit I concerned, I have seen units here in Thailand on modified classic cars that look very similar. Do you have any more details how the are triggered and whether they use the original distributor etc? regards David
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Post by tony on Aug 29, 2014 5:33:56 GMT
Just before removal of the engine plus AT. The orange engine mounting support ( blue arrowed) was created here 2 years old. We just had to use its metal plates to make a new one. There is another extra mounting support ( red circled ), which will support partly the weigh of engine plus AT if the engine mounting support fails. There is another story about this. I bought a new engine mounting support in London in 1996. It was stored until 2012 when the one on Morris failed. We installed the new stored one, funny thing happened. It just last for a week!!! So I didn't know about Anthony Wood at that time. Therefore we had to make one. A new created one came here and was installed, the same, last for 10 days. Manufacturer came to see to it and created another stronger one for us to install. A big cost!!! Now it has been since then. The power pump ( left ) connects to the back of the alternator ( right ). Finally removed them out.
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Post by tony on Aug 29, 2014 7:18:23 GMT
Hi, David She is back right now and all of the repair is done. The orange electronic ignition is called ULTRA Transistor Ignition by Japan --- ours style is ULI 6000R. Key words : ULTRA Transistor ignition You can search this product online. There is a lot of info talking about it. Also wiring diagrams. Ours is out of date and the new style products are only sold in Japan as far as I know. But now they probably have changed the rules. You might try if you would be interested in that. Very expensive right now! www.nengun.com/ultra/semi-transistor-ignition-system-uti-6000-siiRegards Tony Hi Tony Thanks for the info. I'm sure Chris would be interested in an electronic ignition system that is reliable as he is our champion for destructive testing The most reliable unit I ran also used the contact breakers as the trigger and the unit lasted for >100,000 miles. It only finally failed when I transferred it to another car and was too lazy to provide a separate power feed to the electronics from the one that fed the coil, so the back EMF weakened it. regards David
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Post by tony on Aug 29, 2014 7:50:06 GMT
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Post by tony on Aug 29, 2014 8:28:21 GMT
We tried to repair it. But it was done in the wrong way. It became like this uneven. about to overhaul the AT.
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Post by foursquare on Aug 29, 2014 8:37:38 GMT
Great pictures and very interesting engine bay layout.
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