Post by tommydp on Nov 26, 2013 23:52:18 GMT
Hi all!
We have finally finished rebuilding the kitchen, so I've spent some time with the white crab. Following your advice I'm going through all earth points and connections. Cleaning up, down to bare metal, putting vaseline on, checking all wires etc. I'm also cleaning the internals of the distributor.
Some time during the summer I was about to adjust the timing, as there was slight pinking. The distributor had not moved since days of leaded petrol and was totally stuck. Short version: The distributor broke to bits and pieces before I finally got it out. I installed another one, original 25 d 41234.
While looking inside the distributor cap the other day, it seems to me the spark occures a bit late as the "spark wear" on the cap's HT segments are at the very end of the segments, for all cylinders. So I assume the spark goes from the rear end of the rotor arm segment as the rotor arm passes. Of course, when the vacuum advance operates, it will fire earlier on the segment but the wear patterns on the cap segments are usually more evenly distributed across the whole segment imo. As was the case with the previous distributor which is now broken.
This takes me to the correct installing of the distributor, when installing a new distributor or when you've loosened the clamp pinch bolt/ lost the original setting. The thing with the 25 d here is the vernier/ fine tuning setting as this also alters the spark phasing ie the position of the rotor arm relative to the segment of the distributor cap.
Estimating the position of the cap segment it seems like the rotor arm is about to pass it as the points open now.
Guess I'll have to advance the vernier selector and retard the distributor body then as the dynamic timing is correct.
Can anyone please shed some light on correct installing and static timing as a starting point here, making sure the relation between the rotor arm and cap segment is correct?
Some say set the vernier to the middle of its travel, others say retard it fully, others use the vernier scale (around 4 degrees between the marks) to set the correct timing..
Regards, Tommy
We have finally finished rebuilding the kitchen, so I've spent some time with the white crab. Following your advice I'm going through all earth points and connections. Cleaning up, down to bare metal, putting vaseline on, checking all wires etc. I'm also cleaning the internals of the distributor.
Some time during the summer I was about to adjust the timing, as there was slight pinking. The distributor had not moved since days of leaded petrol and was totally stuck. Short version: The distributor broke to bits and pieces before I finally got it out. I installed another one, original 25 d 41234.
While looking inside the distributor cap the other day, it seems to me the spark occures a bit late as the "spark wear" on the cap's HT segments are at the very end of the segments, for all cylinders. So I assume the spark goes from the rear end of the rotor arm segment as the rotor arm passes. Of course, when the vacuum advance operates, it will fire earlier on the segment but the wear patterns on the cap segments are usually more evenly distributed across the whole segment imo. As was the case with the previous distributor which is now broken.
This takes me to the correct installing of the distributor, when installing a new distributor or when you've loosened the clamp pinch bolt/ lost the original setting. The thing with the 25 d here is the vernier/ fine tuning setting as this also alters the spark phasing ie the position of the rotor arm relative to the segment of the distributor cap.
Estimating the position of the cap segment it seems like the rotor arm is about to pass it as the points open now.
Guess I'll have to advance the vernier selector and retard the distributor body then as the dynamic timing is correct.
Can anyone please shed some light on correct installing and static timing as a starting point here, making sure the relation between the rotor arm and cap segment is correct?
Some say set the vernier to the middle of its travel, others say retard it fully, others use the vernier scale (around 4 degrees between the marks) to set the correct timing..
Regards, Tommy
