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Post by 1800heap on Jan 10, 2023 21:20:23 GMT
Hi Chris I am honoured you called making your part doing a Nick. Why buy a part when you can spend hours making one. Well because we can, Im with you! Glad to see your workbench is as cluttered as mine Chris. The cup of tea is obligatory but Tottenham Hotspurs what! The miss alignment of the drive shaft may have damaged your diff washers, depending on how long it has been like it. Have you got any difference in the gap between the front of the sill and the wheel when you check between sides? Sometimes its bad enough for the wheel to rub on full lock. The Oz crab was bad. A front end prang I think caused it. Actually the chassis was bent where the driveshaft goes through the body. Not easy to straighten either, but was fixed with a jack, heat and big hammer. Hopefully just the engine mounts and bottom stabliser adjustment causing it. Nick
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 19, 2023 21:07:06 GMT
Not had time to investigate further as the weather has been appalling. I haven't had to use the car until this morning. An interesting experience. I had to jump start two of the neighbours cars, then mine. Finished up shovelling sand under the front wheels of another neighbour who had parked pointing up the hill, foolish female.
To get the jump start out, I had to open the boot. The lock was frozen, sorted with the kettle, then the mechanism was frozen. A solid thump opened the boot. Started car, put jump start back in boot and it wouldn't close... Slammed the boot a couple of times until it decided to shut. Thirty seconds later, the engine cut out. No ticking from the fuel pump. Who fitted an inertia switch for the fuel pump? Muggins here did. Re-set it and she restarted. Meanwhile, the wipers had re-frozen to the screen. I had forgotten that I'd turned them on and drove to work. The sun thawed everything out over the course of the day. Jumped in to come home, wipers come on and won't turn off! That'll be a cooked park switch then.
Interesting day.
C.
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 20, 2023 0:35:31 GMT
It sounds as though either your inertia switch is too sensitive or you are too strong. It's been cold here too going as low as 20C in the morning. David
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Post by Penguin45 on May 21, 2023 11:24:01 GMT
Having made the steady bars, I thought that I ought to fit one. Nice quiet job for a Sunday morning. Lower stabiliser bar by Penguin 45, on Flickr That's the emergency, temporary one I made three and a half years ago. Immensely strong, very ugly and lacks adjustment, hence the drive shaft being cockled. Lower stabiliser bar by Penguin 45, on Flickr Lower stabiliser bar by Penguin 45, on Flickr Bit of winding under the car has pulled the shaft straight, so job jobbed. Chris.
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Post by 1800heap on May 21, 2023 20:07:08 GMT
Hi Chris Sorry to be a Debby downer, but is it just a trick of the photo or is the bolt very offset relative to the (RHS in photo) stabiliser bush. If it is I would not be very happy with how much pressure there is on the stabiliser bar. You may want to check the mounts at the front of the engine. It seems you may be fighting one or both of them to bring the engine straight. Nick
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Post by Penguin45 on May 22, 2023 17:31:53 GMT
I think that's fair comment, Nick. I was wondering if a little bit of driving might settle it, but that won't be happening for a while yet, so a quick inspection has taken place.
1/ Cross bar mounting has the dumb bell stability bar, the big flat rubber and the damper. The rubber has definitely sagged, but shows no sign of delaminating.
2/ Rear n/s mount is one of LOCI's modified ones with the bolt through. Bit grubby, but shows no sign of delaminating.
3/ Front n/s mount is definitely on its way out; delaminating from the top at the front and the bottom from the rear. I will replace it and see how things look then.
Chris.
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Post by 1800heap on May 23, 2023 21:24:07 GMT
It is interesting that the engineers put an adjustable tie bar on the bottom. By doing that to me they are accepting that the postion of the engine has considerable tolerance. Not something you would expect to see on a modern vehicle!
Did you add the top 'S' tie bar like I did Chris?
Nick
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Post by dave1800 on May 24, 2023 0:41:28 GMT
Maybe it is because of the way the engine is hung with the rubber mountings more in shear which along with the cable gear change was designed to reduce vibration transmitted to the shell? David It is interesting that the engineers put an adjustable tie bar on the bottom. By doing that to me they are accepting that the postion of the engine has considerable tolerance. Not something you would expect to see on a modern vehicle! Did you add the top 'S' tie bar like I did Chris? Nick
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Post by Penguin45 on May 25, 2023 19:22:37 GMT
I didn't add the dumbbell, it was on the car when rescued, as was the modified rear mount. I suspect that the front one which is delaminating might date back to then as well. The original steady bar was destroyed by a catastrophic rubber joint failure, hence the ugly looking thing pictured above. If I assume that I made it to an incorrect length, the resultant twist over three years and a bit may have strained the engine mount into its current state. Front engine mount by Penguin 45, on Flickr Currently looks like this. I will change it, then I can conduct an experiment for Tony Wood.... Anyway, the cryptic comments about not going anywhere need an explanation. Early in the new year, the window cleaner reversed into the car. To be fair to the man, he came and told me what had happened and was most apologetic. At first glance, there was a dent in the driver side rear door. A closer investigation revealed a split along the line of the centre membrane in the sill. With my history, you can safely assume that the CHISEL OF DOOM put in an appearance... VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Oh dear (That's not quite what I actually said). VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr In for a penny, in for a pound. I had no idea, until it got bumped. It's been topped up with cavity wax every year, so I've assumed that everything was fine. VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr After the ANGLEGRINDER OF REGULARISATION. Looks better as a nice neat hole, anyway. So, I've got a chunk of work to do. What I find especially disturbing is that with the grot removed, it's in exactly the same state as in 2013/14. It's the new metal fitted at that time which has disappeared and what is left is what was left last time! I'm not sure how that works. I've got a four day weekend, so hopefully I'll break the back of this. Chris.
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Post by 1800heap on May 26, 2023 7:26:56 GMT
Damn Chris that's quite a bit of rust! I am glad OKR did not have that rust in it again. I am probably lucky is was mostly in the garage while it waited for me!
Nick
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Post by Penguin45 on May 27, 2023 23:26:35 GMT
Yes, got some work to do. I've made a good start on the inner sill/floor area and started making panels for the centre membrane. I have also swapped out the front engine mounting. Austin 1800 engine mount. by Penguin 45, on Flickr Old one from above with the grill removed. The new one has raised the engine by perhaps 3/ 4". Given that this is a triangulated mounting system, raising the front corner will pivot the other end slightly forwards and allowed me to re-set the steady bar with rather less load on it. I'll try and bag a pic of it tomorrow. Chris.
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Post by wayne962 on Jun 6, 2023 17:58:57 GMT
Wow, good timing! I've got some mounts that need replacing too. Does anyone know of a good spot to get them? Been Googling for hours, and only found a few random spots that don't look too promising.
Thanks,
Wayne
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 6, 2023 18:02:47 GMT
Tony Wood does uprated ones which are supposed to be virtually indestructible. spareathought[AT]landcrab[DOT]net.
C.
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Post by wayne962 on Jun 8, 2023 19:45:35 GMT
Great! I know Tony and have bought some stuff from him recently. I'm not sure why I didn't think to reach out to him?
Thanks!
-Wayne
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