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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 23, 2021 13:13:07 GMT
The one that drives me mad is if you actually buy something. Then you get bombarded with adverts to buy more of what you just bought. Hello? Am I going to buy another one? Is your marketing department staffed by six year olds? Meh. Anyway, latest PU project about to come to fruition. Buffers by Penguin 45, on Flickr Morris Marina bump stops. They're handed, so making in pairs. These are the first test pulls to be sent off for evaluation by the Club.
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 26, 2021 15:43:57 GMT
Having run MrsP to the car show at Tatton Park, I have had to deal with A COMPLAINT. MrsP couldn't open the passenger side window. I've known about it for a while, but, hey, I don't sit on that side. I had even acquired some new window channel, as that was the root of the problem. VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr That's Woolies Universal Window Channel no. 317 - HERE. Forms into a nice square section when pushed home into the channel. So, three doors were dealt with without any particular problems. 1/ Remove door furniture and card. 2/ Remove window stop bracket at the bottom. 3/ Get the window right down and slide the glass off the rail. 4/ Rotate the glass through 45° and slide out through the top of the door. No need to remove the chrome trim. 5/ Remove old channel. Might pull out, might disintegrate..... 6/ Clean door channel. 7/ Work the new channel section home. Ensure pushed fully home in the corners. 8/ Clean window bottom rail and coat copiously with copperslip. 9/ Re-insert glass, ease down to the bottom and refit to rail. 10/ Refit stop bracket. 11/ Seize opportunity to fill the door bottom with cavity wax. 12/ Wind window up and down a few times to ensure the glass sits properly. 13/ Refit door card and furniture. The rear passenger door was a complete and total s@d. Finished up removing the winder mechanism with the window in the up position. I could hear the ghost of Torquemada giggling faintly... VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Had to use a hammer and drift on the glass support rail to make the window move. Scary. Then: VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr That's why the window wouldn't drop. VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr And the other end. Horrible. Cleaned out the remains. VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Feeding the new channel home. Then I had to put the window mechanism back in. It only took 40 minutes and a bit of swearing. Once it was in the right way, I couldn't get the glass back on the rail. Finally, in a moment of extreme stupidity genius, I took the tension spring off. All back together in moments. Err, the spring. Figured out that the tension was lowest with the window in the fully closed position. Torquemada is now looming over my shoulder laughing out loud. I got it with water pump pliers and a large screwdriver in the end. Awkward, fiddly job, but rather satisfying when done. Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 28, 2021 18:58:05 GMT
Pride comes before a fall. Drove to Burnley and back today. On the way, that window dropped an inch. On the way back, it dropped half way down. Presumably insufficient tension on the spring. Winder by Penguin 45, on Flickr So, bearing in mind that I'm not very big and not very strong, how do I get an extra half a turn on that there spring?
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Post by 1800heap on Aug 29, 2021 1:59:50 GMT
Very carefully so you don't loose an eye! It might call for some kind of tool to be made up Chris. Nick Pride comes before a fall. Drove to Burnley and back today. On the way, that window dropped an inch. On the way back, it dropped half way down. Presumably insufficient tension on the spring. Winder by Penguin 45, on Flickr So, bearing in mind that I'm not very big and not very strong, how do I get an extra half a turn on that there spring?
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 30, 2021 12:15:55 GMT
Yup. I've got an idea or two. Whilst pondering, I did a quick little mini-job that should have been done years ago. The car was converted to an electric fuel pump many years ago. As the pump is switched by the ignition, there really ought to be an inertia switch on the live feed, just in case.... I bought a generic one from the Bay of Evil Things some time ago for about £12. Switch, plug, connectors and covers, so a full kit ready to install. It should be mounted vertically, but I wanted it somewhere fairly discreet but accessible quickly and easily. Inside the rear wing access panel seemed logical. Inertia switch by Penguin 45, on Flickr Inside of the corner cover seems logical. Inertia switch by Penguin 45, on Flickr That should be fine there. Just a little bit of added reassurance.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 31, 2021 10:52:59 GMT
Definitely worthwhile, it's amazing how fast the pump delivers petrol if the connection breaks. Difficult to test non destructively I imagine.
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 31, 2021 11:33:23 GMT
I'm a bit surprised that it hasn't been added to the MoT test as a retrospective requirement. Seems to make sense in my mind.
Snoopy came to the rescue with some spare window regulators and sent them up to Burnley with a family member, which was very kind of him. I popped over to collect them in the 'Crab. Car travelled halfway down the street and stopped. Fuel pump not running..... Pressed the button - no pump. Pull the wires off the switch and join the fuel pump back up directly. Off to Burnley and back.
Swapped the regulator this morning and achieved correct upsy downsy motion and the window stayed where it was put. Nice. Thanks, Snoopy.
Inertia switch. Pulled it back out. The three contacts are marked C, NO and NC. Common, Normally Open and Normally Closed. The plug was wired such that it connected across NO and NC. For heavens sake..... Five minutes fiddling about with a pin saw the connectors fitted in the plug correctly (C - NC) and the fuel pump purred away happily.
Bit annoyed about that.
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Post by snoopy11 on Sept 1, 2021 10:40:48 GMT
How did you manage to wire that wrong. It’s even labelled no… so obviously you don’t wire to it 🤣
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 1, 2021 11:18:54 GMT
Perhaps he was reading it upside down? How did you manage to wire that wrong. It’s even labelled no… so obviously you don’t wire to it 🤣
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 1, 2021 11:28:49 GMT
The plug was pre-wired. All I had to do was split the feed to the pump, attach a couple of connectors and connect them to the flying wires. It never even crossed my mind that the plug itself would be incorrectly wired. I should know by now. Cheap eBay tat etc....
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Post by 1800heap on Sept 2, 2021 0:07:14 GMT
Is it worth checking that the device itself is going to do something! This sort of basic error would make me very sus that the thing is not going to work as intended. I have also been caught like this by a knock off ebay NIMH battery. It was a replacement for an expensive transmitter which was killed by the battery teminals being backwards. I did a basic check that red was in the correct place. Trouble is red was negative and black was positive! Not happy let me tell you. Nick The plug was pre-wired. All I had to do was split the feed to the pump, attach a couple of connectors and connect them to the flying wires. It never even crossed my mind that the plug itself would be incorrectly wired. I should know by now. Cheap eBay tat etc....
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 2, 2021 2:53:20 GMT
Only teasing . I've bought cheap USB cables and found the 5v polarity reversed but always check them only because I was tipped off it was a known issue. David The plug was pre-wired. All I had to do was split the feed to the pump, attach a couple of connectors and connect them to the flying wires. It never even crossed my mind that the plug itself would be incorrectly wired. I should know by now. Cheap eBay tat etc....
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 9, 2021 17:19:01 GMT
Made a new "Oz" brake shoe adjuster. Brake shoe adjuster by Penguin 45, on Flickr 7mm Allen key, 7mm ¼" drive socket. Weld, file, lick of paint. Can't buy that and it got pinched.
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 23, 2021 15:06:07 GMT
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 5, 2021 15:13:57 GMT
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