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Post by snoopy11 on Dec 7, 2019 15:22:46 GMT
He turned up. Made a mess in my garage as well. All I will say is 1 penguin, 1 foot and 1 oil tray  C by mark atkinson, on Flickr |
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 7, 2019 17:27:04 GMT
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 7, 2019 17:40:11 GMT
But seriously, folks.
Big thanks to Mark for use of garage and help. You can see Mark's pump in the pic - levelled up the suspension in no time. Fitted a standard ignition coil seeing as we were back on points and tweaked the timing slightly.
I've been feeling slightly parnoid without garage facilities. This morning's activity was house hunting in Lancashire (and we may have found the one) before indulging in a bit of Snoopy bothering. Delighted to find that the twins had had training - a pair of little heads appeared over the living room barrier going "Hello Cwispy".
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 15, 2019 14:27:39 GMT
Fitted a new electronic ignition this morning. Very neat little unit from Gammatronix. Car fired up first turn of the key. After I remembered to put the rotor arm back in.  Gammatronix by Penguin 45, on Flickr Pretty good value at £36. Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 16, 2019 1:23:38 GMT
A good solution that retains the points so you can even fit a switch to revert to standard if it fails. I ran a similar unit (Boyer Bransden)for >100,000 miles without any issues. Maybe worth some heat-sink compound between the aluminium base and the car body - at least for the hot summer months - if it feels warm. With modern transistors it could well run cool though.
I've just had a look at the instructions and they show for an unballasted coil that the positive feed for the ignition is taken from the coil positive terminal feed (negative earth version). This was always considered not good practice because the back emf from the coil primary can peak at some 250-400v and can stress the circuit protection components. It was suggested to take the unit positive feed from another source powered through the ignition switch and this longer route damped the spikes through induction in the leads etc. This may not be so important with a modern unit with better suppression but would be my choice. If using a ballasted coil you would need to do this anyway.
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 16, 2019 15:43:51 GMT
The unit is held by double-sided sponge tape at the moment. When extra facilities are available it will be screwed down properly. Heat sink compound a good idea. Good tip with the live feed as well; I will investigate that further.
Been out and about today and she's running nicely.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 4, 2020 8:24:35 GMT
Hi Peter Did you follow this through to establish whether the valve timing was incorrect? This method only works for cams with equal inlet and exhaust openings. Some of the Mk1 cars had a cam with an asymmetric timing of 5,45,51,21. David The acceleration of my Wolseley MKI has never been good, although MPG is good. So I decided to try your method. It didn't show 110 degrees but about 125 degrees, so it seems I have found the reason. Peter OK, I know cam timing is an even bigger turn off than ignition timing, but some of you may find this mildly interesting and the rest will already know it  If you want to quickly confirm your valve timing is correct all you need to do is remove the rocker cover and preferably also the spark plugs, turn the engine over until the No 1 cylinder inlet valve pushrod (ie the second from the front)is at its highest point ie valve fully open. Then measure the number of degrees ATDC of the pulley timing mark. If it is 110 degrees then all is fine - assuming the TDC mark on the pulley is correct. This is not as precise as the Moss method here as the camshaft lobe centre can be a little tricky to establish precisely but if a timing chain is off by 1 camshaft gear tooth that = 9 degrees and is immediately obvious. This is quick and only needs one measurement. This works for most of the BMC symmetrical cams. 5,45,40,10 Mk11/111 and later Mk1 cars. Inlet starts to open 5 degrees BTDC, closed again at 45 degrees ATDC. Total time = 5+45+180 = 230 degrees. Mid point = lobe centre = 230/2 = 115 which is reached at 115-5 degrees = 110 ATDC 16,56,51,21 Mk11S Total time = 16+56+180 = 252 degrees. Mid point = 252/2 = 126 which is reached at 126-16 degrees = 110 ATDC etc. Also worth checking that all the valves open to the same extent to confirm no excessive camshaft lobe wear. David |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 1, 2020 15:40:20 GMT
Woot! Woot! Car in garage, stuff done.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Yay! I could actually have gone much further over to the left. It didn't matter, I had enough room for what I wanted to do.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Which was to convert the car to negative earth. Reason why will become apparent in a few days time. So, battery turned round, coil connections reversed, voltmeter connections reversed, connector for satnav reversed, LED interior light reversed, dynamo re-flashed and an ETi100 ignition unit fitted to replace the +Ve one on there.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr It's down there somewhere. It all works and it's charging. Well, slightly overcharging, which seems to have become the norm. Always something to do, but now in pleasant surroundings. Chris. |
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Post by tonymark3 on Jun 1, 2020 15:55:13 GMT
Good stuff. Gammatronix still ok?
was thinking of one for mine.
Chasing a voltage leak from battery at moment, so any tips appreciated. Have removed bulb from boot light so it ain’t that. Radio feed via ignition switches off ok. If i disconnect live battery terminal will i get a voltage reading if any thing still on?
Anyway good job with workshop - jealous as i have to work from council garage with no power!
Tony S
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 1, 2020 17:09:02 GMT
Hi Tony. Yes, very pleased with how garage has worked out. Did the doors last to make me finish everything else first!
The Gammatronix unit is fine, but positive earth. I have rather more faith in that than those 'orrible little red plastic Hall Effect things. Anyway, I had a couple of nice period negative earth units to hand, so put the ETi on. It's the same one as is on the Wolseley and has caused no bother there.
Pulling the live off the battery should stop all current flow. Pulling the earth and bridging with your meter on amps should give you an idea of what's being drawn off - you might be able to work it out from that. If it's a modern radio, some of them have two power sources and they need to be the right way round.....
C.
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Post by peppib on Jun 2, 2020 4:06:36 GMT
Did you reverse the wires on the heater fan?
Mine ran backwards and screamed before I realised
Dave
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Post by foglaursen on Jun 2, 2020 9:16:10 GMT
Hi David Sorry for not answering. Seems I have missed your message. Thanks for the information. I shall keep that in mind. I haven't investigated further. At some point in the future I will get to it. Peter Hi Peter Did you follow this through to establish whether the valve timing was incorrect? This method only works for cams with equal inlet and exhaust openings. Some of the Mk1 cars had a cam with an asymmetric timing of 5,45,51,21. David The acceleration of my Wolseley MKI has never been good, although MPG is good. So I decided to try your method. It didn't show 110 degrees but about 125 degrees, so it seems I have found the reason. Peter |
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Post by tonymark3 on Jun 2, 2020 16:05:01 GMT
Hi Chris,
seem to be nearly here with current drain. Narrowed down by removing fuses and determining which circuit causing problem. Clock consumes 0.017 amp so no problem. Circuit protected by fuse A1 - A2 was draining over .5 amp with everything off! Checked interior lights and headlamp flasher and all OK. Tried horn - nothing. Pulled off connections to horns and checked-no current drain.
Too hot outside, red car same as yours.
Will investigate horn stalk and wiring tomorrow.
Tony S
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Post by dave1800 on Jun 4, 2020 10:14:33 GMT
Hi Peter No worries, it would be interesting to know your findings in due course. David Hi David Sorry for not answering. Seems I have missed your message. Thanks for the information. I shall keep that in mind. I haven't investigated further. At some point in the future I will get to it. Peter Hi Peter Did you follow this through to establish whether the valve timing was incorrect? This method only works for cams with equal inlet and exhaust openings. Some of the Mk1 cars had a cam with an asymmetric timing of 5,45,51,21. David |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 7, 2020 13:59:08 GMT
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