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Post by dave1800 on Dec 19, 2017 11:18:33 GMT
Chris your love affair with the ignition systems is amazing! Did you carry out an autopsy to try and determine the root cause of the failure. Is there any evidence of tracking on the rotor arm, black skid marks? Trying to think through the reasons these could include poor rotor arm material (I assume its the one without the rivet) or a higher than normal voltage building up on the arm. The latter could be caused by a number of factors including: (a) plug gaps that are too wide, (b) poor plug leads with high resistance, (c) the gap between the distributor cap terminal posts and the rotor arm being too large (d) poor carbon brush contact in the distributor cap (e) the rotor arm not in alignment with the distributor cap posts throughout the advance range (f) tracking because of moisture on the rotor arm (g) you are just unlucky with ignitions  (a) to (e) are easy and quick to check. (e) is unlikely unless the CB is non standard or there is a misalignment of the distributor drive. I must say that I never had a rotor arm failure with the original Lucas parts whatever the weather. Good luck! David |
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 20, 2017 0:08:40 GMT
Amazing, isn't it? I am more confident with it these days though. The DD rotor arm was dirty up the inside. At a glance I couldn't see anything burnt, but time pressure meant that I didn't spend much time on it.
In other news, I tracked down a replacement for the 54411969 vacuum advance capsule through a Jaguar supplier at a sensible price. It turned up this morning as a superceded part, now fitting a 22D distributor, so lacked the adjuster rod. That's gone straight up to my friend Ady for modification. I will soon have a kit of parts to build a dead-on spec dizzy. Nice little holiday project.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 20, 2017 18:19:56 GMT
And today, the manual windscreen wash pump packed in. GWW102 from Moss Europe is a like for like replacement.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 21, 2017 10:18:12 GMT
I have just seen a video where a US garage quoted around $450 to replace the windscreen washer bottle on a Honda and it only needed a $3.50 rubber bung so this look like a bargain. Not thought of an electric conversion, so much nicer! David And today, the manual windscreen wash pump packed in. GWW102 from Moss Europe is a like for like replacement. Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 30, 2017 15:30:21 GMT
Ah, well. I suppose I'm kind of trying to keep this one original. I have been tinkering a bit over the Christmas break. New pump fitted (and working) and a new headlamp switch fitted. Yesterday Mick the Mustang and I had a play in the garage over the road, so I fitted the newly refurbished distributor, complete with new vacuum capsule (Thanks, Ady). Timed at exactly 12° static. A quick run out shows that the flat spot followed by the lurch at lowish revs has disappeared. Then we had another go at the handbrake. Still too much travel getting it to lock. Mick pulled the nearside apart and stripped, cleaned and lubed the lot. He pointed out that the operating lever where the rod pulls had an oval hole for the clevis pin, rather than a round one and was putting a surprising amount of lost motion into the linkages. A rummage in some of the darker recesses of my garage found a virtually unworn lever, which we fitted. O/s is the same, but couldn't find an unworn lever. So...  Handbrake drum lever by Penguin 45, on Flickr Oval hole.  Handbrake drum lever by Penguin 45, on Flickr Filled.  Handbrake drum lever by Penguin 45, on Flickr Flatted.  Handbrake drum lever by Penguin 45, on Flickr Drilled. Handbrake now locks on 5 clicks, so it's made a surprising difference. Final action of the day was to weld up the exhaust on one of the neighbours car's, so last night we had free beer.  Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 11, 2018 20:00:06 GMT
I dropped off the original cylinder head at W. DRAKE & CO. last week to be refurbished and went back to collect it today. I'm not quite sure which was worse - paying the rather substantial bill or the near-death experience which is driving in Bradford. Anyway, managed to keep my trousers and didn't need to change them afterwards. A comprehensive job has been performed. 1/ .009" face skim. 2/ Exhaust valve inserts. 3/ All new valve guides. 4/ Face off all valves and seats. 5/ Payen valve stem seals. 6/ Pressure tested for cracks.  Cylinder head by Penguin 45, on Flickr  Cylinder head by Penguin 45, on Flickr  Cylinder head by Penguin 45, on Flickr All very lovely. I have all new studs for it and a Payen head gasket on the way.  Cylinder head by Penguin 45, on Flickr The shims..... And I have completed the most technical part of the operation so far.  Cylinder head by Penguin 45, on Flickr  Cylinder head by Penguin 45, on Flickr Yes, I've painted it green. Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 12, 2018 9:01:43 GMT
I understand your fear of driving in Bradford, it is like that here every day (Google the stats!). How much does it cost to have the head refurbished compared with purchasing a new one from Peter Burgess? I don't know if he supplies them in green which is an essential component.
David
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Post by snoopy11 on Jan 12, 2018 17:39:25 GMT
Bet you had to have a lie down after paying for that.
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 12, 2018 18:24:48 GMT
Still horizontal, mate.  |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 21, 2018 17:55:19 GMT
I have recovered verticality. Seeing as it was a snowy day today and not conducive to being out and about, I swapped the heads over.  Cylinder head by Penguin 45, on Flickr Head off. Face of block cleaned with a razor blade and brake cleaner.  Cylinder head by Penguin 45, on Flickr Payen head gasket.  Cylinder head by Penguin 45, on Flickr Head on, torqued to 30 then 50 lb/ft. Valve clearances set.  Cylinder head by Penguin 45, on Flickr And all back together. Rocker cover will get a lick of paint later. And it works. Not bad for "the bodywork guy".  Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 22, 2018 18:31:25 GMT
Not quite a cautionary tale, but worth considering when you're under the bonnet.  Fuel line by Penguin 45, on Flickr Noticed yesterday whilst doing the head. This is the fuel line up to the carburettor. Whilst originally floppy in a hosey sort of manner, it has now become very stiff (Stop sniggering at the back....). It was sold as petrol pipe and has lasted about 18 months. I feel quite certain that if I bent it with any real force it would snap.  Fuel line by Penguin 45, on Flickr New line run in. The engine rocks slightly on its mounts, so a truly flexible hose is obviously important.  Fuel line by Penguin 45, on Flickr Note markings on the pipe. This stuff meets the current standards. Chris. |
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Post by tommydp on Jan 22, 2018 21:31:20 GMT
A job well done!
It's amazing how some petrol hoses are really bad quality. Absolutely important to check.
T.
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 23, 2018 1:30:27 GMT
Do you have the spec of that vacuum advance unit on the distributor?
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 27, 2018 20:35:37 GMT
Cheers, Tommy.
David, the vac unit is supposed to be a direct replacement for 54411969, but it wasn't quite that straightforward, as a supercession was involved, so while the SN Barrett p/no was 1969, the part supplied came without the securing/adjustment rod and the actuating rod was far too long. Enquiries revealed that the supercession is for the Jaguar 22D dizzy, so was therefore completely suitable and, no, they wouldn't take it back. That's them off my Christmas card list.
Anyway, Ady sorted out the securing/adjustment rod and I set the actuating rod to the correct length with a hacksaw and a dot of weld.....
Curiously enough, today was a Wolseley Owners Club workshop day, so Uncle Ron pounced upon the car and fettled everything. I thought I had her running quite nicely - Ron's work has made an astonishing difference, so I'm very grateful to him. I assume that the vac unit is working nicely and must be at least close to the correct spec.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Feb 5, 2018 0:27:58 GMT
Further to Uncle Ron tuning the car last weekend, he had a further go on Saturday, using his Redex vacuum gauge. Apparently, there wasn't enough vacuum. I will confess that I wasn't really paying attention, as I was immersed in the rust problems of a Humber Hawk. I will say that I trust Ron implicitly, as he's been a motor mechanic/engineer for over 50 years and has done some pretty amazing work on the cars that we've put through the barn over the years.
The upshot was that the timing got tweaked slightly, the mixture was enrichened a smidge and the valves got re-set... to .025"! The engine shows the barest ticking and goes like stink. It's never run as well as this in my ownership. From Ron's point of view, the vac gauge had moved from poor to good. "17" is apperenty the number.
Chris.
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