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Post by dave1800 on Oct 23, 2017 23:53:20 GMT
Well done, Chris! I've never seen those shims mentioned in the w/s manuals but have been present on all the engines I've dismantled. Just add a bit of preload I assume.
David
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 24, 2017 6:03:23 GMT
Yup, under the two centre pedestals. It bends the rocker shaft a smidge. 12H3960 if you want them. I have now taken the car out for a proper run about. Much, much better. Performance has risen from "slightly sluggish" to "quite lively". Temperature is stable and it stops on the key without running on. Result. Thanks to all involved. Chris. Thanks Chris I will keep a look out for a set. I am the opposite to David and have never seen them fitted and wondered if it was a myth! My Oz crab was quite quiet so I thought I might find a set fitted but no sign. I didn't check the clearances before I pulled it apart so it may have been a bit tight! The previous owner was a bit dodgy, so I wouldn't put it past him! My pommy crab is the opposite and is quite clattery and needs a set! Sounds like your car has benefitted from some more horses now you have fixed it! Nick |
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 24, 2017 6:14:20 GMT
Hey presto a quick search on ebay with the part number and there they are good tip!
Thanks
Nick
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Post by tommydp on Oct 24, 2017 21:10:12 GMT
Great news, Chris! Have you checked the compression again? I have 170 on all four after doing the cylinder head. I'm planning on putting the correct parts from a 41234 dizzy into a NOS genuine distributor body. I guess it's the bush that causes the sideways slop.
Dave: The cylinder head, and the engine was surprisingly clean, no build up. This engine has been standing for 30 yrs, I'm sure. The valve sealed so badly I would see light between the valve and seat when putting a small torch into the inlet port, after removing the head. When I blew compressed air into the cylinder at TDC firing it would rush out throught the carb. I actually think the valve has been changed previously and not lapped to the seat. I fitted a nev valve, lapped all valves and have now even compression on all cylinders.
It seems to me the early mk 2 engines don't originally have the shims to the rocker posts fitted. My current engine, which I believe is 68, does not have them. It's actually quite quiet, even with the correct clearances so haven't botheres fitting them.
T
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 24, 2017 23:26:20 GMT
I had thought that the ticking was the tappet bodies themselves, rather than the valve gear? I can't see the shims making any difference on that front. Uncle Ron (He's not my Uncle  ) will no doubt pounce upon the car next weekend and perform multiple test to check its renewed fitness. I think it'll be fine,. Chris. |
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 25, 2017 0:29:06 GMT
I had thought that the ticking was the tappet bodies themselves, rather than the valve gear? I can't see the shims making any difference on that front. Uncle Ron (He's not my Uncle ) will no doubt pounce upon the car next weekend and perform multiple test to check its renewed fitness. I think it'll be fine,. Chris. Quite right Chis I would have said the majority of noise would be tapping caused by the required clearance on the tappets. I would only expect a small difference if any! When I get my engine back together I am going to try a set of shims and will let you know if they help at all. Nick |
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 25, 2017 0:42:58 GMT
Apparently there is a service bulletin for the MGB describing these shims but I have not actually seen it. It is apparently reported as stopping the shaft from floating so I assume it keeps the gap constant so reducing noise at the tappets. Good luck trying to hear the difference! David I had thought that the ticking was the tappet bodies themselves, rather than the valve gear? I can't see the shims making any difference on that front. Uncle Ron (He's not my Uncle ) will no doubt pounce upon the car next weekend and perform multiple test to check its renewed fitness. I think it'll be fine,. Chris. Quite right Chis I would have said the majority of noise would be tapping caused by the required clearance on the tappets. I would only expect a small difference if any! When I get my engine back together I am going to try a set of shims and will let you know if they help at all. Nick |
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 25, 2017 7:14:41 GMT
Yes I am kidding myself I know!
Nick
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 25, 2017 18:07:30 GMT
Haha! Every little counts.
Exhaust fettled, refitted and sealed this afternoon.
Now I can hear the tappets.......
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 5, 2017 16:48:48 GMT
...... And the bottom of the back box blowing. Mmm, upside down welding. My favourite.
Rear brake shoes replaced seeing as the back end was up in the air.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 25, 2017 18:29:41 GMT
Got a few miles on the engine, so head re-torqued this afternoon, valve clearances checked and adjusted. Timing tweaked (Don't start....), handvbrake tweaked, fluids checked and all is basically not bad with the world.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 26, 2017 0:54:35 GMT
Good news! I see there is some cold weather forecast for next week so not ideal for working on the cars.
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 18, 2017 17:44:55 GMT
Bitterly cold this morning. Would she start? Would she heck. Eventually narrowed down to the rotor arm and away we went. Odd one - this was one of the Distributor Doctor's red arms, which I had thought to be damn near indestructible.
Chris.
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Post by tommydp on Dec 18, 2017 20:55:49 GMT
Strange, I've used one for years. Not at all happy with his overhaul of the distributor, but the rotor arm seems good.
Is it stamped with DD? There are other red ones around, of course... I try to get all NOS Lucas ignition parts I can find, and stick to points.
Tommy
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 19, 2017 0:24:16 GMT
Oh yes, pukka DD arm. Stuck the spare on and off we went. Better get another one. Chris. |
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) will no doubt pounce upon the car next weekend and perform multiple test to check its renewed fitness.