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Post by snoopy11 on Jun 28, 2017 20:44:44 GMT
She runs very nicely indeed. I don't know how to get the strainer out. Is this a job for one of they mechanic types? I'm going to need one fairly soon as there is a minor head gasket issue to be dealt with. Chris. I will take that as a hint then |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 28, 2017 22:40:16 GMT
You? You'll need a pass in triplicate signed in advance.....  No, I'd appreciate a hand. Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 1, 2017 15:58:53 GMT
Just one little job jobbed today.  Front box section of bonnet filled up with wax, then on with the sound proofing. Probably won't make the slightest bit of difference.  Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 2, 2017 0:52:25 GMT
Every little bit helps!
David
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Post by landcrabman on Jul 3, 2017 19:18:17 GMT
Every little bit helps! David |
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Post by landcrabman on Jul 3, 2017 19:20:40 GMT
Every little bit helps! David Looks good Chris , hope it's fire proof , hoping to get mine back next week , then I can start putting it together. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 3, 2017 23:05:41 GMT
Been in for paint?
Chris.
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Post by landcrabman on Jul 4, 2017 21:25:04 GMT
Yep could have had it back last week but work etc held me up , painter on holiday now , back on sat , going down Monday to put lights on and Windows back in and get her home. See you soon . |
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Post by paddymk2 on Jul 9, 2017 11:17:03 GMT
Brake problem now resolved. Snoopy came over this morning and between us we worked out that the servo was indeed the problem. Cracking a caliper nipple simply releases the pressure on the brakes. Having got the brakes locked, releasing a joint between the master cylinder and the servo would show that: 1/ If they release, it's the brake maaster cylinder 2/ If they don't, it's the servo. We did, they didn't, so servo time. I'm afraid that being in a bit of a rush we didn't get photos, but stripped, cleaned and polished everything and fitted new seals. I am 99% certain that the air valve was the culprit. Anyway, it's all back together and a comprehensive bleeding has yielded an excellent pedal. And, as fair exchange is no robbery, I spent the afternoon doing a bit of welding on GLE. Chris. _________________________________________________________________________________ Hi Chris, I seem to have a very similar situation. The brakes had been grabbing - so I changed the flexible hoses - bled the lines and it seemed to be ok for a short drive. But then it started again. I jacked up the car - disconnected the booster and the front wheels still seemed to be really hard to turn. I took off the calipers - the wheels turned fine so the bearings seem ok. I got the calipers serviced (the pistons were pitted), put them back on and refilled the master cylinder (it took an effort to get all the air through) eventually the brakes pedal feel came good. Took it for a drive round the block and all seemed good. But took it out for a longer run yesterday and (a) the brake pedal was very hard (b) the brakes seemed to be dragging a lot. At this point I put it back in the garage and closed the roller door :-( The booster seems to be operational - when I press on the brake pedal with the engine off and then turn the engine on, the pedal goes down a little. There is plenty of vacuum from the manifold and the one way valve to the booster is operating. Looking at your note I suspect the master cylinder. In your check above are you running the car till the problem is obvious (brakes and fluid are hot) and then (carefully- I assume liquid will squirt out) cracking open the front brake line at the master cylinder. After that the brakes should release (if its the master cylinder)? Its easier for me to tell if the brakes are binding by seeing how it rolls on the incline of my driveway and feeling in the pedal pressure. Regards Paddy |
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 29, 2017 11:35:12 GMT
Having finally got the little green horror out of the garage, I have managed to do a long outstanding job on the Red Dog - the head gasket. It has always had this tiny little dribble down the front of the block at the joint (only when cold) and has need a small coolant top-up every week. Given that the weep was at the centre front of the engine, my first response was to re-torque the head. I could feel that front centre stud starting to give with the wrench only set at 45 ft/lb, so I stopped before I broke anything. Sunday saw the head off. I was slightly surprised by what I found. Pots 1 - 3 showed the normal carbon deposits in the the combustion chambers and piston tops. Pot 4 was immaculately steam cleaned, so there was a bit more going on than I had thought. Odd really. Bit of smoke briefly on start up, which was no real surprise with an old and cold engine and otherwise ran very nicely. Taking the 2' steel rule across the head show no real warpage (.002" was the worst I could generate, so not worth worrying about), so that was good. The front centre stud was pretty dodgy, and could be easily rocked about in the mounting hole, so a thread insert was fitted. I've not done this before, so I approached it with some trepidation having read the instructions and watched an official company Youtube video. Piece of cake in the end. No doubt our Antipodean readers will be delighted to know that I used a Recoil kit rather than the other one.  A stud for the valve rocker gear was also found to have stripped at the top, so that was also replaced. Head back on, torqued down to 45 ft/lb in several stages, valves re-set and everything else bolted back on and she started second turn of the key. Idle had to be re-set and she seems to running as sweet as a nut. Chris. |
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Post by snoopy11 on Aug 30, 2017 10:07:43 GMT
I'm surprised you didn't just weld it down 😀😛
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 30, 2017 12:07:01 GMT
I can detect a flaw in that as a plan......   |
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Post by snoopy11 on Aug 30, 2017 18:07:31 GMT
I can detect a flaw in that as a plan...... Yeh. You can't weld cast 😛 |
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 4, 2017 23:17:21 GMT
As mentioned in the Eden Camp thread and Snoopy's GLE thread, things didn't go quite to plan on Sunday, as my charging circuit died (As, later, did Snoopy's...). I've removed the dynamo this evening and everything appears to be down to earth. That's a short, as opposed to a simple and straightforward explanation. I haven't dug up enough bits yet to fix it, so a few days may pass before the resurrection.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 6, 2017 19:41:32 GMT
But then..... There was this power steering dynamo that came off GLE when we converted it to manual steering. Electrickery restored.
Chris.
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A stud for the valve rocker gear was also found to have stripped at the top, so that was also replaced.
