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Post by dave1800 on Jul 22, 2015 12:04:41 GMT
You could be right it looks as though the inlet manifold may require modding. Don't know if it's relevant but I think John Cooper managed to get quite a bit more out of the MPI Minis than the SPI versions especially in terms of getting more low to mid range torque. There are many discussions on the Megasquirt Forum about how to go about implementing an aftermarket ECU in MPI mode on a classic Mini (5 port head)but I am not sure if anyone has successfully achieved what BL did (and I believe that was more about emissions than power). A 7 port head with "conventional" fuel injection may be an easier and proven option if you wanted to go MPI. Regards David
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Post by andrewa on Aug 2, 2015 11:17:43 GMT
Went to Goodwood yesterday for a sprint. Bit of a mixed bag really - brakes were much better with the different pads, good bite, no nasty noises and no fade. Was a bit more adventurous with the handling and car was great BUT engine not as wonderful as normal, was great at road speeds/revs but now doesn't want to go as well at the top end - feels like it just doesn't want to pull/rev out. Last time on same track it was running off the end of the 120 MPH speedo before the braking area this time I struggled to achieve 105 MPH. This was particularly frustrating as I was marginally quicker despite this handicap! Distributor timing is now 34 (have doubled checked) was 35 wide open, the other things that have been changed since last time is the carbs were apparently overfuelling at the top end so we stuck in different needles to lean it off when wide open...also the tappets have been adjusted (see above) and the spark plugs opened up a bit. This time I'll do one at a time - what shall I fiddle with first? Despite all this I was on a par with a Gilbern (MGB engine and fibreglass body) seen next to me and in the middle of the TR4/5 & 6's time wise and most of these were serious(ish) sprint/motorsport cars (see below) so not too shabby I guess.
I do like this Tiger...
and particularly taken with the blown Mk2 Cortina - some serious engineering expertise has gone into this...
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 3, 2015 1:07:26 GMT
There is probably not one reason for the fall off in top speed which is quite dramatic and must represent considerable loss of bhp given the crab's poor aerodynamics. My advice would be to close the spark plug gaps. First, it is easy to do and at high rpm the energy available from the coil falls away so introducing a bigger gap may have pushe the system beyond its capabilities. I am unsure which electronic ignition you are using (apologies if I've missed the details) but if you need high rpm AND wide plug gaps you should be using a "constant energy" ignition ie one that sets the dwell according to the engine speed /load with a low inductance high energy coil. So electronic units merely keep the constant dwell the same way as points. If you attach a dwell meter and it stays constant you almost certainly need to close the plug gaps to run high rpm. I don't think the change of max advance from 35 to 34 degrees is going to be an issue. If the fall off is due to the change in needles to give a less rich top end then I guess the best way to check this is to revert to the needles you used last time but that means another rolling road sessiom. Was there any indication of fuel starvation ie reaching the high rpm and then falling back etc? I guess another plug for the wideband sensor so you can see what is happening in real time Good luck David
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Post by andrewa on Sept 29, 2015 10:22:25 GMT
Lot's happening but not much on 1800 front! Have finished restoration/modification of ancient Honda motorbike, said goodbye to old faithful Megane estate and replaced with boy racer diesel clio (soon to be mapped!) and failed to get to grips with Suzuki Outboard engine that refuses to idle. In an effort to waste more money am taking Landcrab to Peter Burgess in early November. I like Chatsworth so I can have a poke round there whilst in Derbyshire and I'm convinced there's more to be had from my engine and it just needs someone who knows these things inside out to play with it. Am going to give this 123 Tune distributor a go www.123ignition.nl/id/50.htmlWill let you all know in due course how it goes. Am planning to run it in the Pomeroy Trophy next year grrc.goodwood.com/race/historic/pom-trophy-2015#QYACxyYC1B6GqpIg.97so it and I will need a little work to be eligible - but it's something I've always wanted to do. Only other definite is the Bugatti Owners Hillclimb Series which I intend to dominate due to (hopefully) generous handicap (we'll see). Cheers Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 29, 2015 12:22:19 GMT
Sounds as though you are incredibly busy!
Are you going to try and set up the 123 Tune before seeing Peter B? If so, it may be a good idea to try and map your current distributor settings and use them as the base map for the 123. Most important setting is the maximum advance at high rpm and load. Will be very interested to hear how you get on. There are some helpful FAQs on the website including the need to ensure the coil you use does not have a primary resistance of <1.5 ohms. (I assume it will destroy the unit if it does).
Edit: one more thought, there may be some advantage to moving to manifold vacuum advance (assuming you're using ported now) to even out the idle with your fairly hot cam given the 123 programming options. Perhaps worth discussing with Peter B before you go if possible so you can set up the take off point ready for the rolling road. It won't affect anything once the throttle is opened, just idle and cranking.
Regards
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 29, 2015 23:10:05 GMT
Andrew, you're incorrigible. Chris.
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Post by andrewa on Sept 30, 2015 19:34:36 GMT
That's certainly one of the politer things I've been called. Thanks for the heads up on the coil - you're absolutely right - cheers. I think I'll leave the set up to Mr B, I'm pretty cack handed with all things electrickery. This is the bike by the way, started off as an unloved 1980 CB250 RS and I've turned into my interpretation of what they call a street tracker (!). It's a fun thing to ride, weighs very little and sort of looks like something Honda might almost have made - almost.
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Post by Nick RS on Sept 30, 2015 21:04:58 GMT
I don't do bikes, but if I did then that would be the one, very cool.
Nick
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Post by andrewa on Nov 4, 2015 18:54:57 GMT
Not much had happened on car apart from cleaning up and narrowing gap on plugs as bought a boat as a project now bike done! It's made of ABS and easy for (even me)to spruce up - it's called a Terhi and popular in the Netherlands I'm reliably informed! Anyway it's nearly done apart from some rewarding, inexpensive and non structural footling about to do. Just returned from trip to Mr Burgess and fitment of 123 programmable dizzy. My lack of tech knowledge and facts to impart will frustrate many I'm sure. Anyway car much better than ever and problems with lumpy cam was way too much fuel low down so it was bogging - not cam at all! He filed neeedles, changed springs and did great things with the computer - it's much crisper all round will happily take 4th from low revs now and top end is enhanced, not just restored. Will upload before and after graph so you can see what's what. Great guy though and am convinced it's now running as good as it's going to get. Cheers A
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 5, 2015 4:42:29 GMT
So you've now got a bike, boat and a barge as the crab has been unkindly called. It would be interesting to see the before and after graphs. Did Peter provide you with an ignition timing map? I would be interested to see what he did at the top end. I think he may have added some advance at the lower end if the fuelling was reduced, but I could be wrong it's definitely a black art and he seems to be the magician.
regards
David
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Post by andrewa on Nov 5, 2015 8:42:57 GMT
It's an interesting set up he's got - there's three work there and they all work in silence - no radio etc - except to confer briefly about results. No idle chat with customer until job done - I thought very professional. He did a lot of small adjustments with carb, and turned down the fuel pump to between 2/2.5 psi. I didn't get ignition map - but that's because I was in a hurry to get back and forgot. Unlike others he appears to save and file everything. I'll get it in due course. You'll see there's huge gains at the bottom end and in reality it doesn't feel like it's tailing off like the graph would appear to indicate.
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 5, 2015 9:03:21 GMT
That is an absolutely amazing increase in torque and BHP at 2000 rpm - about 50%! The car must be transformed in the way it picks up and climbs steep hills. Without going into personal details approximately how much does a rolling road and set up session cost? Does Peter charge by the hour or for the job? I see you had the carb needles reprofiled, that must be time consuming and maybe require a few tries?
I would certainly be interested in seeing the timing map in due course when you receive it.
Thanks for posting
regards
David
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Post by andrewa on Nov 5, 2015 11:23:08 GMT
Will do.
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 6, 2015 6:35:49 GMT
Andrew You may wish to compare your data from Peter Burgess with the information published at the introduction of the first Mk1 car with single carb and lowish compression. Scroll down to the bottom of the 3rd page Mk1 1800 1964. You now have nearly as much torque and BHP as the original car at 2000rpm, some achievement given the 285 cam and higher compression. Much more at higher RPM of course! regards David
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Post by andrewa on Nov 18, 2015 12:24:19 GMT
Will post later a graph of his mega engine which he has tempted me with! As you will see elsewhere have already started search for another engine and gearbox! I will want to change ratios in the gearbox to give it some longer legs - how do I do this - is it all about the final drive - I see Minis started off circa 3.8 and ended up 2.9 over the years - where do I start - what's a good compromise for the landcrab 3:1 ? Be easier when you can see graph of engine! Thanks Andrew
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