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Post by andrewa on Dec 17, 2017 10:43:41 GMT
A few bits of advice sought! Remarkably the clutch is still holding out despite considerable abuse over the last few years. When the time comes though has anyone ever found an upgraded alternative to the standard item?
Also what other mods should I consider - not quite sure where we are on thrust bearing improvements/alternative solutions?
Am starting to notice more slack in drivetrain when moving off from a standstill. It's not horrendous and made more noticeable by using the auto driveshafts and firmer engine mounts but it's difficult to work out if it's the splines on the shafts or the diff itself so that seems sensible to investigate as well.
Any thoughts / advice gratefully received.
Cheers
Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 18, 2017 1:23:20 GMT
Hi Andrew I will let Chris provide an update on his modified crb, but the last I recall it was working well. There was a competition clutch plate available from the BL ST division but not sure if this or a substitute is still around. The slack in the drive-train can just be an accumulation of wear or a specific problem. Assuming your engine mountings are all in good order I would suggest putting the car in gear and raising one of the front wheels. Then check the total free rotational play at the wheel. Now, hold the drive shaft firmly where it leaves the diff and check the free play in just the shaft, CV joint etc by rotating the wheel. Next rotate just the drive shaft at the diff end to see how much relates to the diff, gearbox and idler gear. Repeat for the other side and compare notes. If there is play in the diff, g/box and idler then try and identify where the clunk comes from (assuming it does make that noise). Not easy as the noise transmits throughout the transmission. One possibility is that by using the auto driveshafts that the first motion shaft nut (below the idler gear) has come loose allowing some play on take up. The rubber donuts were designed to take up the shock of a short drive shaft, but not needed for the auto-box (or apparently for the UTE). This should be identifiable as noise coming from that area. Note the diff and gearbox are matched components and rebuilding a diff is a skilled task as the preloads described in the w/s manual are crucial. I understand several of the diff components are, surprisingly, actually shared with the MGB. I was speaking to Ken in Perth last week and he hopes to be back online soon and he has all the details. I watched him rebuilding a crab diff when I was there last year. Do you have a "diff type noises" as you go from drive to the over-run? I know you are a noise canceling man so I assume you would have mentioned this already  Hope this helps as a start regards David |
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Post by 1800heap on Dec 18, 2017 6:21:56 GMT
Interesting you mention the first motion shaft nut David as my Australian crab, which also has solid rather than rubber inners had alot of drive train play and damage in this area. I thought it was poor installation practices from the previous somewhat suspect owner but perhaps it was a not helped by the solid shafts. I am not sure if the shafts were standard or not on my car. Perhaps change the oil Andrew and have a good look for metal might be a good short term plan!
Nick
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 18, 2017 11:01:59 GMT
The only time I had a problem was after fitting hard joints and the first motion shaft nut came loose creating a wonderful oil and aluminium paste. The car was second hand and had a new clutch fitted so I was never certain of the cause but didn't risk it again - a major job to sort that out. I believe the Oz Utes never used the rubber donuts, if this is correct it would suggest the rubber was about refinement (can I use that word to describe a Crab ) and protecting the transmission on the saloons. The reason given in the original blurb was that it was to absorb the shock from the wheels that a long propshaft would do on a rwd car. David |
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 18, 2017 17:21:25 GMT
Roller release bearing is holding up well. Mileage is up to about 9k on the red car and it's still silent. The actual clutch plate is shared with the MGB, so there is scope there, but the cover plate is unique to our car.
The blue car was originally am automatic, and had the shafts with the UJ's in. I changed the UJ bearings several times and eventually switched to the rubber ones, with a markéd difference in smoothness.
Chris.
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Post by andrewa on Dec 23, 2017 10:56:06 GMT
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Post by andrewa on Jan 11, 2018 8:02:14 GMT
Back on the diff front - have been tied up with Twingo! Will change oil and report back.
There are no noises as such and mountings are good - perhaps I'm going mad - again!
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Post by andrewa on Mar 8, 2018 12:10:56 GMT
Think I am going mad - been using the car a lot over the snowy season and it's performed brilliantly - snow/winter tyres are exceptional - especially for braking.
Spent a good few hours washing off the salt and grit from underneath and the wheel arches afterwards.
Nothing much else to report - going to members meeting at Goodwood in a few weeks but 1800 will just be transport - not on track or anything!
Couple of car runs in April and May then proper rally in June down near Lake Annecy in France.
Cheers
Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 9, 2018 2:13:20 GMT
It would be interesting to know the make, size and rough cost of the winter tyres if you have a free moment. David Think I am going mad - been using the car a lot over the snowy season and it's performed brilliantly - snow/winter tyres are exceptional - especially for braking. Spent a good few hours washing off the salt and grit from underneath and the wheel arches afterwards. Nothing much else to report - going to members meeting at Goodwood in a few weeks but 1800 will just be transport - not on track or anything! Couple of car runs in April and May then proper rally in June down near Lake Annecy in France. Cheers Andrew |
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Post by andrewa on Mar 15, 2018 15:06:35 GMT
They're Continental Winter Contact TS 850 165/65/14 they were about £50 a pop each from mytyres an online outfit. Am having my head turned away from Landcrab by thoughts of this...... rpsrally.com/1939-chevrolet-coupe/Voice of reason says what would you do in that that you can't do in Landcrab.... |
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 16, 2018 4:07:36 GMT
Thanks for the tyre info - a good price. I saw some Chevy Coupes here a couple of years back on a rally from S'pore to Myanmar, stick with the crab you'd never sort out all the rattles with a body on frame machine. David They're Continental Winter Contact TS 850 165/65/14 they were about £50 a pop each from mytyres an online outfit. Am having my head turned away from Landcrab by thoughts of this...... rpsrally.com/1939-chevrolet-coupe/Voice of reason says what would you do in that that you can't do in Landcrab.... |
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Post by andrewa on Mar 16, 2018 7:09:56 GMT
Good point.... |
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Post by andrewa on Apr 13, 2018 7:55:21 GMT
But the itch had to be scratched one way or another so "invested" in this fun machine - which may replace the motorbike.. It's all Ford built around a 1928 Model A frame, 1940 front axle and hydraulic brakes all round with crossflow engine and gearbox. It's been beautifully built and comes with a very effective windscreen - the power to weight ratio is pretty staggering. retro-motoring.com/events/Pendine-2014/picviewer.php?file=IMG_9909 |
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Post by snoopy11 on Apr 13, 2018 13:13:38 GMT
That’s cool
I want a go
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Post by dave1800 on Apr 14, 2018 0:13:56 GMT
I didn't spot the windscreen wipers! Hope you get a good summer to enjoy it. David |
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