Post by tommydp on Oct 21, 2013 17:52:43 GMT
Hi all!
A follow up on the weird issues I'm having with the ignition operated circuit on the 1800, and I need some further help I'm afraid.
As mentioned, I'm not at all good when it comes to electrics.
I understand what a live feed/ wire and earth is, and that the current runs in a loop from the positive (negative earth cars) battery post, via a switch to a device like the heater motor, and then returns to the negative battery post through earth wire(s)/ the cars chassis. I know how to find a live wire and earth using a test bulb pen. I know how to measure voltage and with some luck current using a digital multimeter. I've also got a Gunson's Testune (analogue) with different scales for voltage etc. I know Ohm's law and P= UxI (no idea who invented that...) That's about it, I'm afraid!
The problem? The car (the engine that is...) continues to run on for a few seconds, if I stop it while the heater motor is running. Perhaps not a problem, but the whole green wire circuit (ignition switch fused accesories) seems strange imo:
- Ignition warning light glows while engine runs on
- Ignition warning light glows dimly when operating heater motor, indicators, wipers and brake lights. Progressively worse when more of these are used together. Alternator charges well (above 14V) (engine continues running when testing by removing battery negative cable.
- Ignition warning light wil not go dim if I turn on all lights, high beam (different circuit)
- If I run the heater and put the indicators on, the speed of the heater will dip dramatically when indicators light up. Also when engine running. This also happens when operating the brake lights. The heater will not drop as much when switching on the headlamps...
- I connected a test bulb and the analogue Testune to the positive coil connection while the car was running and the indicators were on. The voltage drops by more than 0.5 Volts when the indicators light up..
So, what to do? I'm checking the earth points and am thinking of running additional earth wires to the battery...
Is there a problem with the blue relay in the rear wing?
The green wire circuit runs from the fusebox (Current runs from the white ignition switched wires through a fuse) to the voltage stabilizer behind the speedo. Here it is divided to indicators, the brake lights and the heater. Perhaps there is too much resistance in the wire from the fuse box to this connection, which is the common supply wire to all the 3 devices..
Well, any thoughts? I think the first thing to do is run a new wire from the fuse to the heater motor an possibly to the brake lights and indicators from this to see if it improves things.
Regards, Tommy
A follow up on the weird issues I'm having with the ignition operated circuit on the 1800, and I need some further help I'm afraid.
As mentioned, I'm not at all good when it comes to electrics.
I understand what a live feed/ wire and earth is, and that the current runs in a loop from the positive (negative earth cars) battery post, via a switch to a device like the heater motor, and then returns to the negative battery post through earth wire(s)/ the cars chassis. I know how to find a live wire and earth using a test bulb pen. I know how to measure voltage and with some luck current using a digital multimeter. I've also got a Gunson's Testune (analogue) with different scales for voltage etc. I know Ohm's law and P= UxI (no idea who invented that...) That's about it, I'm afraid!
The problem? The car (the engine that is...) continues to run on for a few seconds, if I stop it while the heater motor is running. Perhaps not a problem, but the whole green wire circuit (ignition switch fused accesories) seems strange imo:
- Ignition warning light glows while engine runs on
- Ignition warning light glows dimly when operating heater motor, indicators, wipers and brake lights. Progressively worse when more of these are used together. Alternator charges well (above 14V) (engine continues running when testing by removing battery negative cable.
- Ignition warning light wil not go dim if I turn on all lights, high beam (different circuit)
- If I run the heater and put the indicators on, the speed of the heater will dip dramatically when indicators light up. Also when engine running. This also happens when operating the brake lights. The heater will not drop as much when switching on the headlamps...
- I connected a test bulb and the analogue Testune to the positive coil connection while the car was running and the indicators were on. The voltage drops by more than 0.5 Volts when the indicators light up..
So, what to do? I'm checking the earth points and am thinking of running additional earth wires to the battery...
Is there a problem with the blue relay in the rear wing?
The green wire circuit runs from the fusebox (Current runs from the white ignition switched wires through a fuse) to the voltage stabilizer behind the speedo. Here it is divided to indicators, the brake lights and the heater. Perhaps there is too much resistance in the wire from the fuse box to this connection, which is the common supply wire to all the 3 devices..
Well, any thoughts? I think the first thing to do is run a new wire from the fuse to the heater motor an possibly to the brake lights and indicators from this to see if it improves things.
Regards, Tommy
