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Oil
Sept 23, 2013 18:27:02 GMT
via mobile
Post by snoopy11 on Sept 23, 2013 18:27:02 GMT
At the risk of opening a large debate, what oil is right for an 1800 crab.
I am currently using 20-50 from that well known expensive motor store.
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Oil
Sept 23, 2013 18:37:59 GMT
Post by Nick RS on Sept 23, 2013 18:37:59 GMT
I'm on 20W 50 too, not from them but probably cost as much
Nick
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Oil
Sept 23, 2013 19:30:08 GMT
Post by tommydp on Sept 23, 2013 19:30:08 GMT
Mineral 20W 50 it is for me. I've used 10W 40 too, especially if used in winter. Driving with 20W 50 in minus 20 degrees, you really need a passenger to help you with the gears until the engine heats up:-) They always recommended 10W 40 below 0 degrees Celsius.
Tommy
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Oil
Sept 23, 2013 19:47:28 GMT
Post by tommydp on Sept 23, 2013 19:47:28 GMT
And to take it further... what oil do you use in the carburettor dashpot? I use 20W 50 there too, as the book says. Ordinairy carb oil, for Strombergs, or ATF as some use are too thin according to experts.
I'm not sure if it makes a big difference, but some say that different oils "alter acceleration characteristics". Any experiences here? I don't think it's as simple as thin oil makes for quicker performance. I'm almost certain it's quicker with the heavier oil..
The advantage of ATF is that it's stable with temperature changes. Or so I've been told..
Well, off the oil topic in a way.. Sorry:-)
Tommy
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Oil
Sept 23, 2013 20:04:51 GMT
via mobile
Post by snoopy11 on Sept 23, 2013 20:04:51 GMT
I was always told thin oil in the carb.
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Oil
Sept 23, 2013 23:29:23 GMT
Post by Penguin45 on Sept 23, 2013 23:29:23 GMT
I use Comma 20W/50. Does the job.
Dash pot oil is there as a damper fluid, so a lower viscosity oil will be less effective at damping as it will allow the needle to rise and fall more quickly. Richer/jerkier running perhaps?
Chris.
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Oil
Sept 24, 2013 7:42:02 GMT
Post by dave1800 on Sept 24, 2013 7:42:02 GMT
A question to which there are a 1,000 different answers across the web. The bottom line is that a heavier oil will slow down the rate at which the piston rises, but not affect the height. The slower it rises the greater the instantaneous mixture enrichment, supposedly good for acceleration depending on how well set up the carb is. I think that's why some find a lighter oil better if they are running a bit rich etc. I always used 20/50 and didn't notice any difference from using a straight 20. David I use Comma 20W/50. Does the job. Dash pot oil is there as a damper fluid, so a lower viscosity oil will be less effective at damping as it will allow the needle to rise and fall more quickly. Richer/jerkier running perhaps? Chris. |
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Oil
Oct 8, 2013 15:12:00 GMT
Post by Nick RS on Oct 8, 2013 15:12:00 GMT
For those of us in the UK, I filled up my modern car with Diesel at Asda today and noticed 5 litre containers of oil outside the kiosk. The 20W 50 was £16 which was a lot cheaper than I paid for Comma oil earlier this year. No idea if it is any good though.
Nick
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Oil
Apr 11, 2014 17:20:57 GMT
Post by Nick RS on Apr 11, 2014 17:20:57 GMT
For UK residents Halfords currently have their 20W 50 classic motor oil for £16 in 5 litre tins, or at least they do in their Rugby branch. I'll be doing the annual service very soon so I got some this afternoon.
Nick
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Oil
Apr 11, 2014 18:22:09 GMT
Post by Penguin45 on Apr 11, 2014 18:22:09 GMT
Ooh - I have Halfords Trade Discount Card. Might be able to get it for a bit less yet.
Chris.
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Oil
Apr 12, 2014 0:41:08 GMT
Post by indianajones on Apr 12, 2014 0:41:08 GMT
I use 20W-50 too. Also, like Tommy, the gear shift is a bit harder until it warms up.
-Andrew
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Oil
Apr 12, 2014 1:23:01 GMT
Post by dave1800 on Apr 12, 2014 1:23:01 GMT
I never used anything but 20W-50 Are you aware whether the oil contains ZDDP - ZDDP debate. It looks as though this is important for the camshaft (especially new cams )and valve gear. I'm normally against using any (additional) additives but in the case where it is to replace something that has been removed in response to legislation I have a more open mind. As usual there are supporters and deniers on the forums but I've not yet found any hard scientific evidence of relative wear rates (alhough it generally seem to be accepted as required for older engines) or an assessment of any reasons not to use it other than cost. David I use 20W-50 too. Also, like Tommy, the gear shift is a bit harder until it warms up. -Andrew |
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Oil
Apr 12, 2014 11:56:33 GMT
Post by foglaursen on Apr 12, 2014 11:56:33 GMT
 I have for many years used synthetic 5W-50. I change oil every 10.000 km instead of 5000 km when I used 20W-50 mineral oil. Oil consumption is decreased from 1 litre/1000 km to 1 litre/10000 km. The synthetic oil is thicker at high temperatures and thinner at low temperatures than the mineral oil. Peter |
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Oil
Apr 19, 2014 20:51:38 GMT
Post by Penguin45 on Apr 19, 2014 20:51:38 GMT
Might be able to get it for a bit less yet. Extra quid off - £14.99. Chris. |
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Oil
Apr 22, 2014 10:37:26 GMT
Post by threelitre on Apr 22, 2014 10:37:26 GMT
My 3 litre uses semi synthetic 10W-40, in one of my Maxis I put fully synthetic 5W-40 (now I can change gears at frosty temperatures single handed even immediatly after setting off!). The only car to get the recommended 20W-50 is the ADO16 automatic, as the gearbox has been designed with this oil in mind and automatic boxes do rely a lot on details of viscosity and probably do not like friction reducing additives in modern, synthetic oils.
Regards,
Alexander
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