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Post by dave1800 on Jul 14, 2013 3:29:12 GMT
I recently posted this thread on Google Groups Austin 1800, but as there are also a few members here from warmer parts of the world maybe you can help?
I am planning to import a Landcrab from Australia or the UK within the next six months so am doing some research gaining experience from Austin 1300 owners here (I've not yet been able to track down a running 1800). They have experienced considerable difficulties installing air conditioning which is now essential as temperatures the last year or so have been hitting 40-45C for weeks on end. Some of the installations have been quite well done others not. However, all have suffered overheating problems - whether this is due to the aircon or not isn't clear.
Does anyone here have any experience of installing air conditioning in a Landcrab and if so whether this requires the original radiator to be changed, changes to the fan (I believe Oz water pump pulleys were smaller diameter so ran faster) and I guess a 77C thermostat is advisable. Additionally where has the aircon condensor been located to have sufficient airflow without impeding the air flow to the engine? Maybe carb changes too to run a slightly richer mixture? Any photos would be really appreciated.
Many thanks
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 17, 2013 10:37:02 GMT
No idea how to do it, David, but I wish I had it! Van conked, working out of the car in a heatwave over here.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 17, 2013 11:36:51 GMT
Sorry to hear that. The locals here wear gloves and anoraks when it falls below 25C (seriously). Hope you can get it sorted quickly. Regards David No idea how to do it, David, but I wish I had it! Van conked, working out of the car in a heatwave over here. Chris. |
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Post by tommydp on Jul 17, 2013 20:05:53 GMT
No need for AC up here! It's been around 10-12 degrees the last days, and constant rain... Horrible weather so far this summer. Luckily, we're going to Torrevieja, Spain on Saturday for 2 weeks;-)
Wasn't there an article with pictures of an Australian 1800 with AC on the old Australian crab site, Dave? I remember the pics, showing dashboard AC vents etc
Regards, Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 18, 2013 3:20:58 GMT
Hi Tommy I've been searching for photos without success. I did find an Austin 1800 here a few years ago and that had aircon fitted. It was an example of how not to do it - it was published in the LOCI magazine. Do you know the SU needle number for the MK11 cars in Norway is it ZH? Enjoy your holiday! Regards David No need for AC up here! It's been around 10-12 degrees the last days, and constant rain... Horrible weather so far this summer. Luckily, we're going to Torrevieja, Spain on Saturday for 2 weeks;-) Wasn't there an article with pictures of an Australian 1800 with AC on the old Australian crab site, Dave? I remember the pics, showing dashboard AC vents etc Regards, Tommy |
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Post by tommydp on Jul 18, 2013 6:30:45 GMT
Yes, the correct standard SU needle in Norway is ZH.
Weak alternative is C1W, rich is SA according to my brilliant BL Service data book. This is a massive folder with detailed service sheets for everything sold by BL Norway, ie from Mini 850 to Jaguar XJ 12. It includes almost all available data about the models I think, including distributor numbers, carb needles, carb spring colours and all tuning data of course. I got it from a Mitsubishi dealer which used to be a BL dealer. I also got a folder with the service bulletins, which were letters sent to all dealers from BL Norways headquarter regarding faults on the different models and how to fix them under warranty etc. Needless to say, there are numerous pages about Marina, early Maxi, Allegro and Princess 2200. There are very few on the 1800, which I believe confirms it was a relatively trouble free product. I've been told this by old BL mechanics, too. I don't have these bulletins from the early 1800 years though. I guess there were some more on the crab too, then:-)
Actually, I think most things on Norwegian crabs are identical to UK cars, well apart from being LHD of course. Other than that, the only things I can think of are:
- we have an ignition operated heater element between carb and inlet manifold, as well as carb dashpot heater. These are thermostatically controlled, and supposed to kick in below 4 degrees.
- Previously mentioned direct acting Super vac brake servo.
- Speedometer in kilometres.
- Alternators were more usual here, but not all were fitted with them. Positive earth cars (which all Norwegian ones were as they stopped selling them here in late 71) were fitted with the Lucas 11 AC alternator with external regulator, field isolating relay and warning light relay. What a mess.. It seems most cars were converted to negative earth if the original alternator gave up.
Well, that's it for today:-)
Regards, Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 18, 2013 7:16:17 GMT
Thanks Tommy most helpful. So the ZH was the standard Mk11 SU needle for extra cold climates as well as the UK. The Australian cars had the SL needle which is almost the same as the SA rich option for the UK, now where would the C1W be used I wonder? Perhaps these options are more to do with emissions than climate? You can view and download the 1800 service bulletins from Australia, many of which are applicable to UK and presumably Norwegian cars by registering with the successor website to Homestead Landcrab / Bluestreaksix landcrab HERE . Lots more goodies too. Regards David |
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 19, 2013 13:12:45 GMT
This topic may be coming of greater interest to UK members given the recent extraordinarily hot weather as well as those of you in hotter climes.
I have now had a chance to speak to cptkennykidna on this forum who kindly agreed to tell me how he managed to fit effective aircons to Austin 1800s. He is happy for me to share the details on this forum. (This is a copy of a post on the Google Groups forum so apologies if you've seen it before.
The good news is that it's not too difficult. The radiator is not changed and the compressor fits below the alternator which is also not repositioned. The single pulley is replaced with a double to drive the compressor. In order to fit the compressor the front engine mounting does have to be repositioned to give clearance.
The radiator (condensor) is not located in the engine bay as it is important to maintain the air flow. Instead it is located where the spare wheel is stored, the wheel being transferred to the boot. The one he recommends is from a (Toyota?) Commuter which apparently is also located under the vehicle set at an angle and cooling is effected by two electric fans as well as the airflow. Being between the rear wheel this ensures sufficient clearance to avoid damage. The pipes run either side of the central tunnel obviously well clear of the exhaust.
Apparently this works very well and the car doesn't overheat in the WA temperatures.
Ken, If I have anything wrong please correct me!
Regards
David
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Post by Nick RS on Jul 21, 2013 18:39:08 GMT
David, Very topical for us here in the UK. No forum activity from me for a week or so as I have been making the most of the hot weather in North Wales.  It's difficult to illustrate the heat but this picture shows the RNLI training session at Criccieth on Thursday evening. It's after 7pm but there are plenty of people in beach gear still around. Cadwalader's Ice Cream shop was doing a roaring trade. Mind you, so was the Chippy. The next day the mercury hit 31C two miles away in Porthmadog which made it the hottest place in Britain that day. A/C kits may well find favour though not for me, I've got my fill of non standard modifications. As a coincidence there is a Vanden Plas 1100 on eBay at the moment that says it has a Mocal Aircon unit fitted since new. Does that mean that there was an after market in existence that served the 1800 as a new car? Nick |
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 22, 2013 1:57:35 GMT
Good to see you are enjoying the hot weather at last! I know what you mean about not wanting anything non standard, my feelings entirely. But here it is often still 33C at 9pm so driving without an aircon is not only uncomfortable but dangerous for most of us from cooler climes. Not so bad when you can get airflow by opening windows but in traffic with the sun streaming through the windows the interior temperature can easily reach 50C or more. I have tried to track down Mocal aircons but it appears they are focused on oil coolers nowadays. There are aftermarket aircons for classic minis where the condensor (aircon radiator) is located under the rear sub-frame so a bit vulnerable give the low ground clearance. There is no problem here getting the bits, new or used, I was just getting concerned that locals were saying the BMC FWD transverse engine conversions were always prone to overheating. From what I have seen it is the installation is at fault, fitting bigger radiators that are larger than the inner wing vents and no fan cowl that reduces airflow by up to 50% being the first mistake. I have also see the Rover Mini here from Japan with the factory fitted aircon and it's all under the bonnet with the condensor fitted on the opposite inner wing to the engine radiator. It looks horrendous in real life IMHO - a nightmare do do any maintenance. Regards David While looking, I came across adverts for your electric water pump - maybe worth keeping in mind. David, A/C kits may well find favour though not for me, I've got my fill of non standard modifications. As a coincidence there is a Vanden Plas 1100 on eBay at the moment that says it has a Mocal Aircon unit fitted since new. Does that mean that there was an after market in existence that served the 1800 as a new car? Nick |
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 22, 2013 9:32:32 GMT
For anyone interested I have found what appears to be a BMC 1100 workshop manual section covering the aircon. It seems strange this was offered on the 1100 and not the 1800? HERE David |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 2, 2013 10:35:33 GMT
Today, I found an Austin 1300 here in Thailand in a garage awaiting repairs so I was able to examine the aircon installation in details, sadly I didn't have a camera with me.
The engine - a 1275cc Austin had Japanese markings and twin point fuel injection, probably from a late Rover Mini. The compressor fitted below the alternator was quite large and the front engine mounting had been removed and another mounting fitted below the radiator. There was a tensioner wheel fitted instead of adjusting the alternator. Quite a neat installation, but not quite the same as the workshop manual link I posted earlier.
I did spot the front hydrolastic hose was rubbing against a metal component so hopefully I have helped the owner.
Now all I have to do is get the Landcrab. More on this later I hope!
David
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Post by Nick RS on Aug 2, 2013 16:09:19 GMT
David,
Feel something is brewing here, looking forward to some news whenever your plans come to fruition.
I remember the Japan spec Minis when I worked at Longbridge but not in any detail. When asked how they engineered it in I remember the response was more 'watch making skills' than 'engineering' as everything was done in such a confined space. I had a UK spec 97 radiator at the front Cooper as a company car when new - great fun, though the ride exercised your insides as well as any horse.
Nick
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 3, 2013 12:07:40 GMT
Nick Nothing likely to happen now until early October - but very hopeful. In the mean time I am intrigued by the ingenuity of the local garages working on classic cars where the parts are either no longer available or shipping and import duties are prohibitive. I have seen Minis sourced from Japan further modified with a front radiator plus a side radiator for the water and another for the aircon radiator with both the single point (SPI) and dual point injection (MPI). As you say it is more like watch making, there is hardly anything you can get to without lots of dismantling. It sort of takes away much of the joy of the simplicity of the original. I am trying to get my head around the Mini fuel injection computer. The siamese inlet ports mean that other than the SPI which really just replaces the SU with little advantage, the MPI or dual port injection is incredibly complex and I think beyond my skills to modify for a Landcrab, but if I can find one around  For those of you interested in the reasons why you can't just bolt any old fuel injection system onto an A or B series engine there are a number of sites eg HERE Regards David David, Feel something is brewing here, looking forward to some news whenever your plans come to fruition. I remember the Japan spec Minis when I worked at Longbridge but not in any detail. When asked how they engineered it in I remember the response was more 'watch making skills' than 'engineering' as everything was done in such a confined space. I had a UK spec 97 radiator at the front Cooper as a company car when new - great fun, though the ride exercised your insides as well as any horse. Nick |
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