|
|
Post by crazymaddriver on Jul 9, 2013 17:25:09 GMT
Hello, I don't have a Landcrab but I do have an Austin Princess (wedge). It's the six cylinder model. I am looking for a petrol pump push rod. I am sure that it is the same as the one in six cylinder Landcrabs. Does anyone have one? Please please please - and how much do you want for it?  View of one end.  push rod 4 by crazymadwriter, on Flickr View of the other end.  push rod 3 by crazymadwriter, on Flickr
|
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Jul 9, 2013 17:46:46 GMT
Just been going through the Six/2200 wsm, and it only lists the electric AUF200 pump. Presumably you've got the AUF800 mechanical one?
No doubt a Six owner will wander along soon and be able to advise more fully.
Chris.
|
|
|
|
Post by threelitre on Jul 9, 2013 21:54:39 GMT
It may just be the same as on Allegro/Maxi fitted with E-series engines, as these had a mechanical fuel pump at the front of the engine block.
Regards,
Alexander
|
|
|
|
Post by crazymaddriver on Jul 10, 2013 8:48:46 GMT
Yes, it's a mechanical fuel pump, part number FP55, that fit's onto the front of the engine. Does anyone happen to have a push rod for one of these? Also, does anyone know the correct, unworn measurements for it|?
|
|
|
|
Post by Nick RS on Jul 10, 2013 20:28:12 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Jul 10, 2013 23:39:54 GMT
I suspect that CMD is after the output rod which pushes the end of the fuel pump.
I had a similar problem a few years back with a SAAB 99. The plastic claw on the end of the rod disintegrated, so a happy afternoon was spent fabricating a new one in metal from scratch. It worked very well!
Chris.
|
|
|
|
Post by crazymaddriver on Jul 13, 2013 10:05:02 GMT
Chris, you said there was a plastic claw at the end of the rod. Do you think there is supposed to be a similar claw at the end of the push rod for my petrol pump? If that is so, I do not remember seeing it.
|
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Jul 13, 2013 15:56:39 GMT
I have located a Princess specialist, contacted him and await a reply.
Looking at the actual fuel pump, it looks like a button drive, so I suspect that there has to be some sort of cup to fit the end of the rod and the button on the pump.
Bear with me.
Chris.
|
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Jul 13, 2013 23:40:02 GMT
I note that you are also having this discussion on the Leyland Princess forum - HERE. Personally, I'd blank off the hole and go electric. You just need a switched live from the ignition and a pump back under the tank. Easy peasy, forget all about it. Chris. |
|
|
|
Post by crazymaddriver on Jul 15, 2013 14:40:34 GMT
I have been thinking about doing just that. Still haven't decided, though. It seems that the petrol pump I purchased - FP55 - was not exactly the right one, although it was claimed to be. It might even be responsible for the wear on the push rod. I should have purchased AUF 818.
Any more suggestions as to going the electrical way. What pressure pump should I use? Will it be pumping all the time when the ignition is stitched on - even if I don't have the engine running?
|
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Jul 16, 2013 0:04:18 GMT
Ah - the happy world of after-market parts. I fitted one of these:  to my car. It's a MkI 'Crab, so originally had an electric pump. The PO fitted a MkIII engine with the mechanical pump, which proved desperately unreliable, so I changed it back. There was a live in the back of the car when I looked hard enough. It's mounted on two Mini exhaust bobbins through the boot floor and has an in-line filter between it and the tank.  You'd obviously have to run a live to the back of the car. The way this type of pump (and the pukka SU) works is that the pump is live with the ignition on, but it only actually pumps when the fuel level in the carburettor float chambers drops - otherwise, the back pressure caused by the float valve closing holds the outlet diaphragm valve closed and the pump is stalled. Oh, you'd have to make up a blanking plate for the mechanical pump mounting as well. The only likely problem is from leakage - no back pressure, so the pump would run continuously and empty the tank pretty quickly. You could also fit an inertia switch, in case of an accident, in order to physically cut the power to the pump. I bought that one for about £45 some years ago - I spotted the same ones on eBay recently for about £55. I've had no bother at all with mine, I think it was a pretty good purchase. Chris. |
|
|
|
Post by crazymaddriver on Jul 16, 2013 7:21:31 GMT
Thanks for that info Chris. What is the name and part number of that pump?
|
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Jul 16, 2013 8:20:51 GMT
I recently posted a link to an interesting catalogue HEREIf you look at Page 58 there are a number of electric fuel pumps. I believe you would do better not to purchase one with >4.5 psi or you will need to put a regulator in line to ensure it doesn't overcome the needle valve in the carb float chamber. The one pump is claimed to have no bearings, contacts or diaphragms to wear out and only costs £30 inc VAT. I have no knowledge of these products but others may? Another option is to purchase the SU fuel pump as fitted to the Mk1 1800 showing at £78 inc VAT on the SU Burlen website HERE. A slightly cheaper version is available that uses points which can become fouled after a while, although I never experienced any problems. One advantage I guess is that spare parts are available and will be hopefully for some time. The other advantage is that the pump pressure should be matched to the carb and not cause flooding. Regards David |
|
|
|
Post by kelsham on Jul 16, 2013 8:52:59 GMT
Tony Wood can supply a suitable pump. I had one that looks like the pic posted. During the running problems I had some time ago I bought a SU pump from Burlen. The pump wasn't the cause so I now have the replacement pump in the boot as a spare in case of trouble.
Regards Kels.
|
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Jul 17, 2013 0:01:39 GMT
Cheap one HERE. I would assume that it's used. Annoying - can't spot the usual source of these. He's been there for years as well. I'll find it in the end. Chris. |
|
