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Post by tommydp on Oct 20, 2012 8:21:12 GMT
What is the correct way to install the distributor/ clamp plate when distributor has been removed? I find the manuals unclear on this and want to be sure as I'm about to install the reconditoned dizzy. OK, I've done this before but want to make sure I do it correctly in order not to ruin the distributor clamp area:-)
OK, I fit the clamp plate to the dizzy without tightening the pinch bolt first, then install the assembly to the block. Then what? Do I tighten the two bolts to the block first so the dizzy can be rotated and then finally tighten the pinch bolt?
Regards, Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 20, 2012 10:27:56 GMT
Chis is your man for distributor clamp plates! In my experience the best way is to tighten the clamp pinch bolt first so that it still allows free rotation of the distributor, then install the distributor and tighten the two bolts in the block. Adjust the timing and tighten the pinch bolt. Check the recon's dizzy against the one you take out to make sure the dog isn't 180 degrees out. I would check the timing static and then with the timing light at various rpm as specified in the tuning data to make sure all is working as intended. Good luck regards David What is the correct way to install the distributor/ clamp plate when distributor has been removed? I find the manuals unclear on this and want to be sure as I'm about to install the reconditoned dizzy. OK, I've done this before but want to make sure I do it correctly in order not to ruin the distributor clamp area:-) OK, I fit the clamp plate to the dizzy without tightening the pinch bolt first, then install the assembly to the block. Then what? Do I tighten the two bolts to the block first so the dizzy can be rotated and then finally tighten the pinch bolt? Regards, Tommy |
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Post by tommydp on Oct 20, 2012 17:47:05 GMT
Thanks Dave! According to "distributordoctor" it's nicely calibrated. I'll start with the factory static setting at 9 degrees.
With present, supposed worn dizzy, the static setting is different on cylinders one and four and possibly 2 and 3 but haven't checked those. If I set it at 10 degrees on number one, it will be 12 or more on four.. so looking forward to see if this is improved with the new one. Also the dwell jumps a bit.
Hope to get the distributor soon, it's stuck at the Norwegian customs office. The least efficient place on earth in my experience..
Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 21, 2012 7:21:42 GMT
If you have different readings for cylinders 1 and 4 it could be worm bearings in the old dizzy or if you are still running the electronic ignition I recall the pickup was loose on the shaft. If that is not properly centred that could account for it as would poor manufacturing tolerances in the location of the trigger magnets. The jumping dwell - if with points suggests worn dizzy bearing again, if with the electronics could also be worm dizzy bearings but also a function of the electronic module. These often try and adjust the dwell with engine speed to try and give the coil only the energy it needs. A contact breaker with 50% or 60% dwell is far too much for the coil which only needs around 2.5-4 milliseconds to charge it fully (I'll leave you to do the maths being a teacher!). The cheaper units often just try and replicate the points dwell. Jut worth keeping in mind when you eventually get the new dizzy. Regards David Thanks Dave! According to "distributordoctor" it's nicely calibrated. I'll start with the factory static setting at 9 degrees. With present, supposed worn dizzy, the static setting is different on cylinders one and four and possibly 2 and 3 but haven't checked those. If I set it at 10 degrees on number one, it will be 12 or more on four.. so looking forward to see if this is improved with the new one. Also the dwell jumps a bit. Hope to get the distributor soon, it's stuck at the Norwegian customs office. The least efficient place on earth in my experience.. Tommy |
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Post by tommydp on Nov 13, 2012 20:05:19 GMT
Picking up this thread again, as I've now installed the rebuilt distributor. It really is an excellent rebuild it seems. It was ready to fit with all new, quality points, condenser, rotor arm etc. The car is a bit smoother at idle and it's even healthier and more responsive on the road. It seems perfectly calibrated. Surprisingly there is still a difference betwen the ignition timing on cylinders one and four, both static and dynamic. Cylinder four is advanced by approx 2 degrees compared to cylinder one. Perhaps it's not critical. Can't really see what could cause this with a rebuilt distributor.. Would really recommend www.distributordoctor.com to other picky enthusiasts! PS Dave, I will try to upload the calibration chart:-) Tommy |
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Post by indianajones on Nov 13, 2012 20:45:39 GMT
Cheers for the update Tommy.
I will keep the distriutor doctor in mind for the future.
-Andrew
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