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Post by tommydp on Jul 19, 2012 9:55:07 GMT
Now that the blue one is working to my satisfaction, touch wood again, I'm eager to really bottom out the shake I sometimes experience at low speed. I believe it's from the front end and it's only noticeable when doing below 30 kmh. Typically noticable in traffic jam driving, my impression is it's worse after braking and/ or turning left or right. It's a sideway shake, but it sometimes also feels as the shake is somewhat horizontal. When this happens the steering wheel shakes lightly, sideways.
I suspect a driveshaft/ CV joint, as if I raise the front of the car and drive it in gear, the left hand shaft especially runs far out of true. There's also a wobble at the CV joint. Strange, as I've assembled it twice with new bearings. Oh yes, and the hub nut keeps coming lose even though I tighten it to 150 as per manual.
I am sure tyres/ wheels can be ruled out, as they have been thoroughly checked and balanced. Also Hydrolastic pivot bearings. Earlier I drained the system and checked for play on all wheels. Nothing. No marks on the rear inner wings either. There seems to be no play in the steering rack, ball joints etc and the steering rack has been adjusted.
So, any ideas?
Tommy:-)
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 19, 2012 10:32:39 GMT
Tommy If your hub nut works loose after tightening it to 150lbs then this means that the hub may be damaged or have a high spot. I assume you have followed the manual very carefully and not tried the initial tightening against the cone washer. You should use a plain washer to pull it all together, then slacken the nut and replace the plain washer with the cone washer. If you don't the cone washer can jam against the shaft preventing the proper tightening and it all works loose. Check the end play as per the manual and if you need a bearing spacer shim, I understand that the ball joint shims are ideal. I have experienced a shake which was down to a CV joint running dry even though the boot was intact and it manifested itself only after a few miles when the joint was hot. If you have a spare driveshaft that may be the easiest was of sorting this out. Good luck, I look forward to some more brain teasers! Regards David Now that the blue one is working to my satisfaction, touch wood again, I'm eager to really bottom out the shake I sometimes experience at low speed. I believe it's from the front end and it's only noticeable when doing below 30 kmh. Typically noticable in traffic jam driving, my impression is it's worse after braking and/ or turning left or right. It's a sideway shake, but it sometimes also feels as the shake is somewhat horizontal. When this happens the steering wheel shakes lightly, sideways. I suspect a driveshaft/ CV joint, as if I raise the front of the car and drive it in gear, the left hand shaft especially runs far out of true. There's also a wobble at the CV joint. Strange, as I've assembled it twice with new bearings. Oh yes, and the hub nut keeps coming lose even though I tighten it to 150 as per manual. I am sure tyres/ wheels can be ruled out, as they have been thoroughly checked and balanced. Also Hydrolastic pivot bearings. Earlier I drained the system and checked for play on all wheels. Nothing. No marks on the rear inner wings either. There seems to be no play in the steering rack, ball joints etc and the steering rack has been adjusted. So, any ideas? Tommy:-) |
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Post by tommydp on Jul 19, 2012 21:44:10 GMT
Thanks a lot, Dave!
I'm afraid I've tightened with the cone washer, as far as I can remember... Blush... I know the manual states special tools are needed, but if I understand correctly it can be done if using a flat washer when pulling it together. This will be a washer that fits over the CV joint shaft then and pushes against the outer part of the hub when tightening the nut, I suppose.
Question is, will the assembly have to be removed from the car and put in a giant vice or something or can it be done in situ? I mean, is it ok to do initial tightening when it's resting on the wheel. Alternatively, perhaps someone can apply the brakes while I tighten?
I'll have a look into it. The problem is not always present. Perhaps I'll remove the hub, repack the bearings and tighten it correctly, then use a new cone washer. I also have complete assemblies with drive shafts and all, which look ok. We'll see.
Thanks again!
Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 20, 2012 2:21:58 GMT
Hi Tommy
No harm in trying to tighten it in situ using the flat washer procedure. Ideally by taking the wheel off and getting someone to put their foot on the brakes, or raising the car with the wheel in place to give just enough grip to stop it turning if you have run out of helpers!
What is important to note in my experience is that once the nut becomes even a little loose that there is rapid wear of the splines, hub etc which can be expensive as I found out the first time it happened to me. I never had access to the specialist tools shown in the manual but improvised OK.
Maybe others here can share their experiences of this quite common problem?
Regards
David
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 20, 2012 10:07:58 GMT
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 20, 2012 21:00:49 GMT
Can't say I've had any bother with this. Just wound up the nut nice and tight, tyre on, drop it in the ground and torque to 150 lb/ft, then the next castellation and fit a split pin.
Chris.
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