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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 16, 2010 20:02:58 GMT
I hate points, condensers and timing in general, AND, I'm rubbish at it. Going electronic offers a fit and forget solution. There are plenty to chose from these days - optical systems, magnetic systems, Hall Effect systems, even programmable complete replacement distributors. I like a nice simple life and, living in Yorkshire, a reasonably inexpensive one, so I plumped for a Hall Effect system from SIMONBBC. I opted for a matched ignition coil at the same time. That's what you get for £28. Fitting is an absolute doddle (although I did remove the grill to improve access). This is the previous (failed) Petronix unit. Screw the sensor to the base plate and fit the magnet onto the centre shaft. I used a piece of card between the sensor and the magnet to ensure that they didn't touch. Route the wiring away from the rotor arm and magnet and fit the cable block in the side. Connect the extension cable to the sensor and attach the red to "+" and black to "-". You'll need to set the timing one last time, then that should be it for ever. Being honest about it, I had one of these units fail and it was exchanged under guarantee with no arguements - good service. By the same token, I have had an expensive Petronix unit fail as well and was offered no support at all. Chris.
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Post by ahctog1 on Dec 18, 2010 0:21:28 GMT
After all I have said about sticking to points etc. I am tempted (it being Xmas and bonus time) to treat myself to a new dizzy and coil from the following :- www.simonbbc.com/wolseleyAlthough not listed, I have seen (somewhere) that a 45D6 is available for the W6. Then there is the seat to get done.......and the cooling.....and........
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 18, 2010 0:30:00 GMT
Looking at the price of those complete distributor units, I really am wondering how they do it. We haven't been able to buy the bush bearing for the 25D and 45D dizzies for years, and now there are complete assemblies available for under £60!
Chris.
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Post by ahctog1 on Dec 18, 2010 0:36:37 GMT
Looking at the price of those complete distributor units, I really am wondering how they do it. We haven't been able to buy the bush bearing for the 25D and 45D dizzies for years, and now there are complete assemblies available for under £60! Chris. Now you have me worried about the quality of them..... question mark added beside that one then!
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 18, 2010 0:41:59 GMT
One of the selling points in the early days of electronic ignition was that it could deal with the inevitable bit of slop in the distributor bearing - now we appear to have gone full circle.
Chris.
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Post by uteguy on Dec 31, 2010 4:44:37 GMT
I purchaed the same unit for my A1800 ute about 12 months ago. Cost me about AU$50 from England - best buy ever; very reliable and happy with the result!
I have driven about 1,000 kms and car runs well and starts first time.
I also use a similar unit in my Valiant.
Uteguy
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Post by ahctog1 on Dec 31, 2010 18:01:38 GMT
Have sent them an email today, will see what they have to offer for a W6.
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Post by threelitre on Jan 1, 2011 2:07:49 GMT
I have fitted one of these units to my Austin 3 litre (22D6) and one to my other half's VP 1300. Right now I am quite impressed regarding value for money, particular compared to the horrible quality of some of the contact sets I bought recently.
Regards and a happy 2011,
Alexander
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Post by Tripleman on Nov 7, 2011 21:59:10 GMT
Fitted the 123 dizzy to mine. Starts and idles a treat. Not driven yet as still restoring it
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Post by ahctog1 on Aug 17, 2013 22:49:21 GMT
I opted for the Distributor Dr's system, very well made and a good solid fit....so far so good...he also offers good back up via phone should you need it.
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Post by kelsham on Aug 18, 2013 8:56:54 GMT
Right, fit and forget? One pertronix failure, no backup. One replacement failure. Now on the third unit. I have been motoring on sublimely with my points set up. I think I will stick with it for the moment. Distributor Doctor can supply good quality parts for it. Another advantage of points is the requirement to check them occasionally. I also then scrutinise the rotor arm, bobweights action and lubricate the mechanism. I also examine the cap and leads. However live and let live, good luck with your latest replacement.
Regards Kels.
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 18, 2013 19:23:49 GMT
I wrote this back in the early days of the forum. It shows how to fit the Hall Effect type units which are so popular these days, for the benefit of others who wish to use them.
Whilst I have moved on from them for reasons we discussed in the "other" electronic ignition thread, they are popular and cheap. No doubt there are thousands of satisfied users out there. I think that this is ahctog1's first go with one, so I hope it works out for him. No doubt the points and condenser can be popped in the boot just in case.
Chris.
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Post by ahctog1 on Aug 18, 2013 20:58:57 GMT
They can.....and are!
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 18, 2013 21:11:13 GMT
Typical - I picked up a 45DM6 dizzie for £5 this afternoon.......
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 19, 2013 0:30:12 GMT
Without turning this into another electronic ignition thread it may be worth reiterating here why most electronic ignition units fail. The two big killers are thermal cycling of components and back voltage (EMF) into the electronics. While there is nothing you can do about thermal cycling damaging components if they are inside the distributor other than ensuring the car doesn't overheat and buying good quality ignition units, if the box is outside the distributor it should be positioned to protect it from heat, oil and moisture. Normally these boxes have to be positioned close to the coil. The second big killer is excessive back EMF fed to the switching IGBT (transistor). This can be avoided by ensuring all plug leads and the king lead are in good condition and tight. Do not pull off a lead to check for a spark (but you can use a proper spark tester - note for Kels), it will cause cumulative damage leading to failure. The same goes for the distributor cap and rotor arm which must be in good condition. High battery charging voltages can also damage units. A spare distributor plate with preinstalled and gapped contact breaker and capacitor in the boot is a good idea. My personal choice would be an electronic ignition unit triggered by the contact breaker with an external electronic box with a switch to convert back in seconds. The contact breaker is a reliable trigger when not asked to switch the full coil current and needs only occasional resetting to conpensate for wear. Regards David
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