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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 14, 2010 1:06:26 GMT
Our cars use the "tin-can" bi-metallic flasher relay to operate the indicators. These have several major problems, not least of which is the current production quality. They are also voltage sensitive, so often stop flashing at engine idle.  Left to right, the terminals are marked X P L. This little chap is an electronic relay with 4 tags, rather than 3.  To convert the wiring, it's as follows: X=49 P=C L=49a 31 = Earth, which must be connected, so you need to run in an extra wire. If your old unit has has the wiring in a three way plug, you can simply move it across and add the additional earth. Quick, easy and even makes the right "clicky clicky" noise, whilst not slowing to a stop at idle. Mine came from VEHICLE WIRING PRODUCTS. I use them professionally and the service is first class. An RFL5 is the one required. Other electrical suppliers are availalble.......... Chris, P45. |
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Post by Keef on Dec 14, 2010 10:02:36 GMT
Interesting post; thanks Chris.  |
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Post by rosieuk on Aug 31, 2018 1:36:24 GMT
To cure the slow down @ idle problem this is what I did.
Pull both the side repeater & and rear OR front bulbs. Replace said with 2 white LED bulbs of the correct rating - 21w & 5w.
For some reason the bi-met doesn't seem to mind half & half (or in this case third & two thirds) where the modern relay would be a demonstration in how to cause an epilepsy attack.
The only issue I've noticed with both LED headlights and the LED indicator bulbs is at hot idle, they both flicker slightly until you apply the slightest bit of throttle - I am assuming it's something to do with the charging system (original dynamo). It doesn't seem to bother the piglets so it is what it is.
The standard sealed beams were still in there and they faded viciously at idle - could have used them for morse code and they loaded the engine so the rpm dropped at idle. The LED are 35/45w combined between the two - don't load the charging circuit and don't fade on idle. You can also get them with DRLs.
PS: on the front I have *gently* removed the yellow interior lenses from the indicators & used amber standard bulbs - can be easily replaced (a small dab of hot glue is your friend) but they look a bit more modern.
PPS : does *anyone* know where I can find sidelight/indicator lens gaskets? I've found a way to partially resurrect them - a mineral oil bath for about a month - but I urgently need new ones.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 31, 2018 2:19:43 GMT
I recall there was an article in the LOCI magazine, I think in the last 18 months about the legality of fitting LED replacement lights as applied to the landcrabs. As usual with legislation it is horribly complex and depends on the date of manufacture of the vehicle and the types of original and replacement lamps. Different rules seem to apply to each type of bulb, ie side light, brake light etc and from what I recall from a lengthy and detailed article different rules applied to crabs depending on their year of manufacture. Given the changes in MOT requirements you do not want to fall foul of any obscure law that could put your vehicle into the modified bracket or make it illegal to use on the road with the insurance implications that may bring. If you haven't already done so, I recommend joining the LOCI and you will have access to the earlier magazines as well as the benefits of being able to purchse parts. David To cure the slow down @ idle problem this is what I did. Pull both the side repeater & and rear OR front bulbs. Replace said with 2 white LED bulbs of the correct rating - 21w & 5w. For some reason the bi-met doesn't seem to mind half & half (or in this case third & two thirds) where the modern relay would be a demonstration in how to cause an epilepsy attack. The only issue I've noticed with both LED headlights and the LED indicator bulbs is at hot idle, they both flicker slightly until you apply the slightest bit of throttle - I am assuming it's something to do with the charging system (original dynamo). It doesn't seem to bother the piglets so it is what it is. The standard sealed beams were still in there and they faded viciously at idle - could have used them for morse code and they loaded the engine so the rpm dropped at idle. The LED are 35/45w combined between the two - don't load the charging circuit and don't fade on idle. You can also get them with DRLs. PS: on the front I have *gently* removed the yellow interior lenses from the indicators & used amber standard bulbs - can be easily replaced (a small dab of hot glue is your friend) but they look a bit more modern. PPS : does *anyone* know where I can find sidelight/indicator lens gaskets? I've found a way to partially resurrect them - a mineral oil bath for about a month - but I urgently need new ones. |
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 1, 2018 2:12:33 GMT
More comments in blue below David[/font] [/quote] To cure the slow down @ idle problem this is what I did. Pull both the side repeater & and rear OR front bulbs. Replace said with 2 white LED bulbs of the correct rating - 21w & 5w. For some reason the bi-met doesn't seem to mind half & half (or in this case third & two thirds) where the modern relay would be a demonstration in how to cause an epilepsy attack. You just need sufficient current to heat the bi-metallic strip, all leds wouldn't work unless they came with ballast resistors.
The only issue I've noticed with both LED headlights and the LED indicator bulbs is at hot idle, they both flicker slightly until you apply the slightest bit of throttle - I am assuming it's something to do with the charging system (original dynamo). It doesn't seem to bother the piglets so it is what it is. The standard sealed beams were still in there and they faded viciously at idle - could have used them for morse code and they loaded the engine so the rpm dropped at idle. The LED are 35/45w combined between the two - don't load the charging circuit and don't fade on idle. You can also get them with DRLs. This seems to confirm that you have high resistance in the wiring as that will cause the voltage to be pulled down under load such as headlamps. This could be the wire itself deteriorated, a poor connecton across the fuse (common due to corrosion) and across connectors. Worth investigating and resolving as it could lead to overheating of the loom. Also check that the dynamo can still provide around 14v when all the electrical items are on at 1200+ rpm.
The earth connection to the voltage regulator was a common cause of low voltage - the wire used was too thin and it's a quick and easy fix.
PS: on the front I have *gently* removed the yellow interior lenses from the indicators & used amber standard bulbs - can be easily replaced (a small dab of hot glue is your friend) but they look a bit more modern. PPS : does *anyone* know where I can find sidelight/indicator lens gaskets? I've found a way to partially resurrect them - a mineral oil bath for about a month - but I urgently need new ones.
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