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Post by dave1800 on Aug 24, 2015 23:54:07 GMT
If it is green as Chris as our resident colour expert suggests then a quick test is to wipe a little onto your finger and taste it. Antifreeze ethylene glycol is distinctively sweet. You only need less than a drop not enough to poison you!
David
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 26, 2015 8:41:42 GMT
Just a quick note Andrew. I fully agree with what Chris suggests about retorquing the head to 50ft lbs. Don't be tempted to rush in to tightening where the leak is first, try and make an assessment of how tight each head nut is by setting the torque wrench to say 40 ft lbs to see if any are on the loose side and then tighten them all in the correct order to 45 then 50 if necessary. Very unlikely I imagine in your case but some MGB owners report head cracks spraying water into the distributor at the position your gasket appears to be weeping so you do not want to stress the head at this point. regards David Well done with the brakes. The fluid leakage appears to be green (I know, don't start, I asked Julia), which suggests coolant rather than oil. If it's not the heater hose you might want to check the torque settings on the head. Book says 40-45 lb/ft, but you can tweak that up to 50 with no detriment. That said, replacing the head gasket is only a couple of hours work. Chris. |
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Post by indianajones on Aug 26, 2015 9:31:13 GMT
Cheers David & Chris.
hmmm if there is the possibility of a cracked head (unlikely as you say), then it might just be worth the exercise of removing the entire head to inspect it and replace the gasket.
But before I do that, I'll check the compression and perhaps get the engine warmed up and watch it to see where the leak is coming from.
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 26, 2015 10:32:38 GMT
Sometimes they only leak while the engine is warming up and/or cooling down so worth watching it.
regards
David
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crabmaster
Member
Posts: 44
Attribute: http://www.austineighteenhundred.com.au
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Post by crabmaster on Aug 26, 2015 13:33:35 GMT
Please note (at least for Australian cars) that there are two types of head studs - the later ones (that require 50 ftlb) have a dimple in their ends to distinguish them from earlier ones. The earlier ones should not be done up to 50 ftlb. Keep in mind that the head studs act in tension along their length to maintain clamping action. There are supposed to be close fitting thick flat washers under the nuts to prevent the nuts from being squeezed down into the rather large hole through the head. If the nuts distort by sinking into the hole, then the tension in the stud will be reduced, perhaps to nil. The threads on the nuts and studs do wear out and it is worth obtaining new items if they have not been replaced recently.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 27, 2015 3:13:29 GMT
Tony, thanks for that information. I have seen 45 to 50 ft lbs specified for the head studs in the w/s manuals and 40 ft lbs for early Mk1 cars, but wasn't aware that there were two different studs. I can't recall seeing mention of this on MGB websites (edit now found on Mini Forum) although there are quite a number of discussions about the benefits of using new unstretched ones to maintain the clamping action. One other crucial point where I cannot find a reliable definitive answer is whether these torque figures are for dry clean studs and nuts or for wet ie lubricated ones. I have always worked on the basis that they are dry figures. This could make an appreciable difference. EDIT: John Twist in his video on an A series MG Midget engine 1275?
here at around 3 min 48 says that he oiled all the nuts first and then continue to torque the head to 55ft lbs. From what I can gather this would equate to a dry torque of maybe 45 ft lbs?
Thoughts and comments anyone?
regards David Please note (at least for Australian cars) that there are two types of head studs - the later ones (that require 50 ftlb) have a dimple in their ends to distinguish them from earlier ones. The earlier ones should not be done up to 50 ftlb. Keep in mind that the head studs act in tension along their length to maintain clamping action. There are supposed to be close fitting thick flat washers under the nuts to prevent the nuts from being squeezed down into the rather large hole through the head. If the nuts distort by sinking into the hole, then the tension in the stud will be reduced, perhaps to nil. The threads on the nuts and studs do wear out and it is worth obtaining new items if they have not been replaced recently. |
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Post by indianajones on Sept 7, 2015 9:06:53 GMT
Picture-less update, sorry.
I was asked by the Wolseley club if I was able to display my car with other club members this weekend coming up, I said I'd be happy to, pending if I passed my WOF (due on the 7th of September).
I cleaned her up a bit and went for my WOF, flew through with no comments, watching the dials on the front brakes was rewarding as they worked nicely and evenly. Glad I got those new pistons in the calipers.
I've replaced the heater hoses, just need to double check they're all secure and top up the system (surprised how much came out\forgot to drain it in my excitement of doing the job lol). The hose end that connects onto the 90d bend that connects to the head was fairly tricky to push on, so will try and get it on a bit more before I top her up.
Local shop might be able to source some new discs for the front, so I might grab those next pay cheque.
Ran out of time to do the compression test, might be able to get it done before the end of the week, we'll see.
She seemed to run along fine when I went for my WOF and judging by the splatter patterns I think it might have been hose, but I couldn't see any obvious splits in the hose. So I shall keep a close eye on it.
I also see in the latest Wolseley Word newsletter that there is a 4/44, partly restored (needs paint and interior reinstalled) for sale in town, asking for around $1000 NZD. I might take a look.
-Andrew
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Post by Nick RS on Sept 7, 2015 18:48:11 GMT
If you can get the discs then I would without hesitation. They seem to be unavailable here, which is a worry.
Nick
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Post by indianajones on Sept 9, 2015 9:50:57 GMT
System refilled and took the car for a test drive, no signs of coolant on the block, head or dizzy etc So touch-wood, the issue has been resolved.
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 9, 2015 11:51:33 GMT
That's great news David System refilled and took the car for a test drive, no signs of coolant on the block, head or dizzy etc So touch-wood, the issue has been resolved. -Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 9, 2015 12:24:33 GMT
Well done.
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Sept 26, 2015 23:05:43 GMT
First of all, I should apologise for the lack of photos from the car show. Have been a bit busy (baby due in a week's time etc), but I'll make an effort to get some up tonight.
Small update, I've been having trouble starting the car lately. I charge the battery etc and when it's fully charged it'll start after a few attempts. But if you leave it for a week or so, it'll turn over fairly slowly and not take off.
So I had been jumping her off the Rover battery from time to time. Once the car is warm she starts first bang.
I tried yesterday and same again just the sound of it trying to spin over. Gave it a few more goes until I noticed a little smoke coming from the starter (the bonnet was open and I was looking over the engine). At this point I called it a day and went inside to do some research.
Found a couple of videos (a couple wit the MG man John Twist were good) and that gave me some leads to follow.
Went out this morning, tried again, same again.
Unscrewed the engine earth wire (which I only had just found out about!), cleaned it up, got some auto electrical spray etc on it. Fired first time!
So I'm rather pleased with that, as I was thinking my battery was on the way out (only 2 years old and still under warranty etc), so hopefully this might be the cause of the issue.
-Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 26, 2015 23:36:09 GMT
Good spot, Andrew. Bit of emery cloth, get it all nice and shiny - wipe of petroleum jelly, perhaps. All helps. It might be an idea to drop the live off the starter motor and give that a clean as well.
All the best for forthcoming events! Exciting times.
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Sept 26, 2015 23:45:11 GMT
Cheers Chris, yup gonna be exciting (read: bat sh*t busy) very soon!
Currently in the office doing some paper work on the new brewery we're working on, don't want to leave my relief man too deep in paperwork.
-Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 27, 2015 0:12:06 GMT
I hope it's a proper beer brewery and not one that make that funny yellow fizzy stuff? If the former, you need to run a pipeline down to the cellar at your place. Just for recreational purposes you understand....  C. |
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