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Post by indianajones on Jul 5, 2015 20:06:15 GMT
Cheers David, got that one bookmarked for when I crack into it. Watch this space as I'm sure I'll be asking questions lol.
-Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Jul 22, 2015 9:32:50 GMT
Sorry for the late update, I did manage to get the pistons out in the end and had a question; How does one clean them up? wire brush on a drill etc? or would that damage them?
Thought I'd ask here before I did something silly lol
Also I note that the 'lips'/grove on one set of pistons differs from the other.
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 22, 2015 11:44:29 GMT
I think Chris is the expert on calipers. It may be helpful if you can post some pics of the lips on the pistons and also to show just how good or bad the pistons are. Regards David Sorry for the late update, I did manage to get the pistons out in the end and had a question; How does one clean them up? wire brush on a drill etc? or would that damage them? Thought I'd ask here before I did something silly lol Also I note that the 'lips'/grove on one set of pistons differs from the other. -Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 22, 2015 18:01:52 GMT
Are they Girling or PBR, Indy? I don't suppose it matters, really - the principles are the same for both. The main thing is to get them clean. Avoid anything really abrasive. Scotchbrite pads soaked in oil work well. You can get crusty deposits forming rings round the bore. I've used a craftknife very, very carefully to break them up.
I can't comment on why the pistons may be different. Providing they're a good fit and aren't horrible corroded and pitted lumps of metal, I'd leave well alone!
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Jul 22, 2015 19:43:46 GMT
Cheers guys.
They're Girling brakes (UK assembled car), I'll take some photos of the pistons this weekend, since they came off a working brake set up, I'd imagine they'd be salvageable.
As for the lips, hopefully they'll be explained in the upcoming photos, it appears that each caliper had a different style of dust seal, which would make sense with the different lip set up.
I imagine someone got a replacement set for one side only during the proceeding 40 years before I bought the car.
-Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Jul 25, 2015 10:39:35 GMT
Here are the pistons (note the differences in the lips):   I made a start on cleaning them, but I could tell that the ones in the above photo were too far gone, and had pitting etc. With that in mind, I wager it'll be cheaper for me to get 2 new ones and the seal kit from the UK, even with the NZD taking a fall against the GBP. Cheers, -Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 25, 2015 20:53:02 GMT
Yes - not good. See if you can get some stainless steel pots - fit and forget.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 26, 2015 3:14:15 GMT
Nothing available in Australia? Should be faster and hopefully less postage costs. The A$ has fallen too. Early Oz cars still used the Girling calipers before they switched to PRB. Regards David [quote author=" indianajones" source="/post/8619/thread" timestamp="1437820775" I wager it'll be cheaper for me to get 2 new ones and the seal kit from the UK, even with the NZD taking a fall against the GBP. Cheers, -Andrew[/quote] |
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Post by indianajones on Aug 23, 2015 2:14:06 GMT
Righto, sorry for the delay in getting this update up. Firstly, the kit arrived in a timely manner, 4 new pistons and seal kits.  I cleaned up the calipers themselves and noted a difference between them (refer to photo below), the one on the right has a raised edge\extended bore when compared to the one on the left. If my memory serves me correctly, getting the dust seal onto the left one was nice and easy, but getting them to fit on the right one was a pain as seals aren't designed to go over the raised edge. So something to note, that as well as two different types of pistons, there are two different types of calipers too. The piston seals fitted nicely on both calipers, so you can install them, but getting the dust cover and circlip onto the raised edge caliper proved impossible, so I just installed them without the circlip.  Apart from that getting the inner seals and pistons in was fairly easy.  Get them all finished, connected up to the car, bled the brakes and we were away laughing. Fairly happy with the outcome, the brakes seemed to have a bit more bite to them, so hopefully I won't need to look at the calipers for a while now. I'll try and pass this info onto the LOCI, I'm sure Tony could shed some light on the different calipers. I imagine at some point a previous owner just borrowed one from a different car (as they bolt right up etc). Cheers, Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Aug 23, 2015 9:02:26 GMT
Oh dear, I think the head gasket might have blown recently. Will test for compression this week or weekend coming. What's the best sort of gasket to get? I've seen a few examples on the net and Tommy mentioning about Payen gaskets.  Cheers, Andrew |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 23, 2015 9:32:32 GMT
What are the symptoms, any oil in the water or reverse, loss of power, overheating etc? Certainly a compression test is the way to go as well as looking for any obvious signs of leakage. If you find oil in the water etc - it floats on the surface, I would avoid driving the car if possible. As far as gaskets go, Payen seem to be the ones Peter B uses and that should be sufficient recommendation. Just remember that both the block and head surfaces need to be scrupuously clean. regards David Oh dear, I think the head gasket might have blown recently. Will test for compression this week or weekend coming. What's the best sort of gasket to get? I've seen a few examples on the net and Tommy mentioning about Payen gaskets. Cheers, Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Aug 23, 2015 9:35:40 GMT
Power seems fine to me, no over-heating that I can tell (going by the dial and no visible steam from the radiator, until I opened the cap).
Was just driving up the hill and noticed it was smelling a bit rich, so opened the bonnet when I got home and saw some coolant over the dizzy. It could be the rubber hose for the heater pipe failing, but didn't notice anything too obvious. Will give it a closer inspection when I check the compression.
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 23, 2015 9:43:07 GMT
That hose looks a bit suspect fromm your photo as though it's swollen. Always worth changing hoses regularly especially the heater hoses - try and get good quality ones if possible there's a lot of rubbish out there.
regards
David
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Post by indianajones on Aug 23, 2015 9:55:28 GMT
Cheers for the advice David, appreciated _b
-Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 24, 2015 23:21:45 GMT
Well done with the brakes.
The fluid leakage appears to be green (I know, don't start, I asked Julia), which suggests coolant rather than oil. If it's not the heater hose you might want to check the torque settings on the head. Book says 40-45lb/ft, but you can tweak that up to 50 with no detriment. That said, replacing the head gasket is only a couple of hours work.
Chris.
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