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Post by tommydp on Sept 7, 2013 7:24:58 GMT
Hi again! Apologies for the late reply.. Here's how I've done it, which I believe is easiest. I've probably forgot something... I use the words drive cable and (drive) tubes from here. The drive cable operates the 2 wheelboxes (and again wipers) from the wiper motor. There are three drive tubes. One curved between wiper motor and first wheelbox, one straight between wheelboxes and one short straight at the end from the "last" wheelbox. I take it this will all be a mirror view from my LHD experience to RHD cars. The wheelboxes themselves are only held in place by the large chromed nut on the outside, which most likely will be a pain to remove. The tubes are held in place by the two nuts holding the wheelbox plate to the wheelbox. You'll hopefully get to these from under the dash. Possibly one or both windscreen air ducts will have to be removed. 1. Remove wiper arms from the drive spindle. Use a flat screwdriver to lever them off. The spring is strong, mind your fingers. (God, I sound American....) 2. Losen the nut which holds the tube to the wiper motor fully. Losen the wiper motor bracket and lift wiper motor up. Draw the wiper motor and drive cable out of the engine compartment. Note, the cable is long and very greasy... As you've removed the wipers, the wheelboxes/ spindles will just rotate as you withdraw the drive cable. 3. losen and remove the cromed nuts on the outside of each wheelbox. I recommend you lubricate these frequently prior to this job as they will be very difficult to remove. Don't force if they won't come loose, you'll bend the drive tubes, see? Alternatively, cut them off with a hacksaw or something. Take care of the threads on the wheelbox. Get one of these for installation, if you break the nut. Probably a good idea anyway as the rubber will be rock hard and let water in. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-PAIR-OF-MGB-ROADSTER-WIPER-BEZELS-SEALS-AND-CHROME-NUTS-/380708826100?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item58a403abf4#ht_585wt_932Now, get under the dash. Losen the two nuts on each wheelbox and the wheelbox cover will come off. The tubes will also fall down as they're only held in place by the cover. You can now pull the wheelboxes down from under the dash. It's a good idea to set the wheelbox drive gear to another position on the drive cable when installing, as it will be worn, ie rotate the drive gear to an unworn position of the drive gear wheel against the drive cable when wipers are parked. Voila! Regards, Tommy |
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Post by indianajones on Sept 7, 2013 8:44:20 GMT
Cheers for that Tommy, I've managed to remove one wheelbox cover, but the tubes stayed put, I'll remove the other one and see if I have anymore luck.
Also in regards to removing the drive cable, I see you say remove the entire motor and pull the cable out with it, the manual is poorly worded so I misunderstood that.
I tried to push in the wheelbox (having removed the wiper arm and nut first) of course it only went so far before it pull on the motor, though I didn't really force it, so hopefully I haven't bent anything.
Thanks again, things are much clearer now.
-Andrew
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Post by tommydp on Sept 7, 2013 9:17:45 GMT
Best thing would be to do it in the order described, but guess you'll still manage to draw the cable out.
Tubes will stay as long as the cable is there. The cable and wheelbox gears put a pressure on the tubes.
In short, cable MUST be removed fully before tubes and wheelboxes can be removed.
In stead of fiddling inside the wiper motor in order to detach the cable there, simply pull out the wiper motor with the cable still attached to it, as described.
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 7, 2013 14:04:28 GMT
I knew this was kicking about somewhere>>>> I'd just undo the two screws on the wheel box, turn it through 180 o and screw it back on again. Simples (If you're good at lying upside down under dashboards, that is.  ). Chris. |
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Post by tommydp on Sept 7, 2013 16:14:03 GMT
I see your point Chris:-) The description was meant as a guide for removing everything.
You would have to get the drive cable off the wheelbox drive gear before you can turn the wheel box, or am I wrong?
Also, I'm not sure you're able to withdraw the wheelbox into the car without removing the tube betwwen the wheelboxes first..
Election time in Norway, I guess that's why I'm picky and arguing:-)
Best regards, Tommy:-)
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 7, 2013 17:41:20 GMT
Oh my goodness! Elections and somebody actually cares. Good for you, as it should be. Over here we seem to rather tired of the usual bunch of self-appeasing liars who claim to represent us. But we digress......   Right hand wheel box - wrong way round..  Undo two nuts, remove plate.  Pull cable back or slide wheel box off the end. Note flanges on tube, they fit into slots in the box and cover.  Turn it round, slide back into place, refit cover plate and nuts. Given that Indy's wipers were working before the attack of his mechanic, I'll bet that it's the right hand end one that need turning round. Chris. |
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Post by tommydp on Sept 7, 2013 19:19:01 GMT
Well done, Chris! You're a master with the pics! I guess this will be piece of cake for Indy now:-)
Just out of curiosity, why would someone want to change the wiper mechanism like it has been done on Indy's car? To overcome slack in the system, or to make a wannabe old Mercedes?
I'm not that interested in the election, really, but I do vote. Sadly, many people don't.
Speaking of, funnily, among all the 1800s I've come across up here- most of them have had a conservative party sticker on the rear windscreen:-) At least when they were new, the crabs were typical upper middle class cars up here. I've heard that a former conservative Norwegian PM also drove an 1800 for years.
OK, really off topic, sorry.-)
T
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 8, 2013 2:19:31 GMT
Just out of curiosity, why would someone want to change the wiper mechanism like it has been done on Indy's car? To overcome slack in the system, or to make a wannabe old Mercedes? T Perhaps they just put it back together wrong and couldn't face crawling under the dash again  . I wonder which pattern is actually better for clearing the driver's view? David |
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Post by indianajones on Sept 14, 2013 5:43:22 GMT
Well I got the drive cable out, flipped the wheelbox, get the drive cable back in....well I tried.....couldn't get the last 2 inches in.
Took a look at the drivers side wheel box and was a bit stiff, so I guess that is what's preventing me getting the cable back in. Will have to loosen it up first. Also I don't believe my set up has the little bit of piping on the end. No doubt the muppet of a mechanic who made them into 'clappers' in the first place lost it. Looks like it'll work without it though.
Also I had a look in the engine bay with the radiator overflow tank and new washer bag. Still a bit too tight for space.
I see two options at this stage:
One, get rid of the overflow tank completely. Of course this would mean keeping a closer eye on the coolant level. Or is that not an option at all?
Two, install the washer bag in the front of the car, in front of the radiator and alternator, having it hang from the top bracket of the front panel. Of course it'd need to be secured, but the big issue with that one is wiring and piping going all the way around the engine bay.
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 14, 2013 12:52:56 GMT
The piping on the end should prevent the grease from escaping and drying up, so if would be good to try and fabricate something if possible. The overflow tank is an essential part of the cooling system. It maintains the pressure although you may be able to transfer the pressure cap to the radiator instead, but as the engine warms up it pushes the water into the overflow tank and draws it back as it cools. It would work without it but I would do all you can to retain it. Is it possible to hang the washer bag behind or beside the battery assuming you have a small dimension battery. A photo of the bag and engine compartment may inspire more ideas. A long run of piping isn't a problem - remember rear window washers - as long as it doesn't get hot. You could even hang it in the boot regards David Well I got the drive cable out, flipped the wheelbox, get the drive cable back in....well I tried.....couldn't get the last 2 inches in. Took a look at the drivers side wheel box and was a bit stiff, so I guess that is what's preventing me getting the cable back in. Will have to loosen it up first. Also I don't believe my set up has the little bit of piping on the end. No doubt the muppet of a mechanic who made them into 'clappers' in the first place lost it. Looks like it'll work without it though. Also I had a look in the engine bay with the radiator overflow tank and new washer bag. Still a bit too tight for space. I see two options at this stage: One, get rid of the overflow tank completely. Of course this would mean keeping a closer eye on the coolant level. Or is that not an option at all? Two, install the washer bag in the front of the car, in front of the radiator and alternator, having it hang from the top bracket of the front panel. Of course it'd need to be secured, but the big issue with that one is wiring and piping going all the way around the engine bay. -Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 14, 2013 16:00:04 GMT
I think we need some pics, Andrew.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 15, 2013 2:36:52 GMT
Andrew I've found this in my archive, but cannot track down the source. It seems to show a way of fitting the replacement servo and retaining the header tank. Not 100% ideal but... I think we need some pics, Andrew. Chris. Attachments:
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Post by indianajones on Sept 15, 2013 5:21:54 GMT
Cheers guys. Here are some photos The bay:  The new washer bag (with overflow tank next to it for comparison):  Proposed location of washer bag:  Cheers, Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 15, 2013 15:20:45 GMT
The last pic doesn't really show how much space is in there. I'd check very carefully where the bonnet hook finishes up before doing the final mounting, though. Could be messy. Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 15, 2013 23:59:55 GMT
Also by blocking part of the grille you are depriving the carb of cool air. Without the proper air cleaner you are sucking in hot air from the manifold trapped against the bulkhead that relies on the air through the grille to cool it. Result, poorer engine performance, higher fuel consumption. I would look again at the servo mounting, as per my previous post, it seem it can be done. Regards David The last pic doesn't really show how much space is in there. I'd check very carefully where the bonnet hook finishes up before doing the final mounting, though. Could be messy. Chris. |
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