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Post by indianajones on Aug 24, 2013 4:03:31 GMT
I've stuck the servo onto the bulk head like Chris has, removed the washer bottle and stuck the reservoir there for the minute. Took it for a test spin, seems all good. Had a bit of brake fluid leaking from the outlet pipe connection, but tightened that up and seems ok now. When I started her up, she was sounding pretty poorly. Took the plugs out to clean them (they were filthy) stuck them back in, started her up, gave her a few revs and she sounded a lot better  I'll have to think of somewhere to put the washer bottle, or ditch it (if I can legally) as it never works anyway. Edit: Well the law says I need to be able to wash my screen so I'll have to sort something out. Perhaps something like this: www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/vintage-parts/other/auction-629469873.htm-Andrew |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 24, 2013 7:04:57 GMT
I guess the plugs may have been fouled by the brake fluid from the servo. I retrofitted a bag type washer with motor just like the one in the photo and it worked fine. David |
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Post by indianajones on Aug 24, 2013 7:15:17 GMT
I guess the plugs may have been fouled by the brake fluid from the servo. I retrofitted a bag type washer with motor just like the one in the photo and it worked fine. David Yep I assumed the same thing. I'll take a look around the engine bay over the next couple of days and see where I can stick the washer bottle/bag. But Otherwise pretty happy so far, got to drive my 'crab for the first time in a long time! -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Aug 29, 2013 22:13:28 GMT
Chris,
You repaired your crash pad/dash top, didn't you?
What did the process involve?
Cheers,
Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 29, 2013 23:31:17 GMT
I replaced the dash top with one that didn't have a speaker cut-out. This can be done without removing the dash as an assembly as the retaining nuts are just about accessible. *I think.* Bear in mind though that the dash top is a fibre moulding and that the nuts could well be seized by now. If you are intending to recover the top, go gently!
I did do a write up in the other place about hoiking out the dash as an assembly, and I think I've got some photos - I can did those out if you wish? It's pretty straightforward really.
As David suggests, disconnect the battery first.
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Aug 30, 2013 0:02:52 GMT
Well I was thinking of just removing the dash top if that could give me the access I need to the wiper boxes and jet piping. I'll take a look tomorrow and will go from there.
My dash top still has it's wood in place also _b
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 30, 2013 2:39:37 GMT
Just allow about 3 times as long as you would expect and take it slowly. Good luck, photos welcome if you can get the camera angles regards David Well I was thinking of just removing the dash top if that could give me the access I need to the wiper boxes and jet piping. I'll take a look tomorrow and will go from there. My dash top still has it's wood in place also _b -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Sept 3, 2013 9:29:40 GMT
Well it seems I can't just remove the dash top and need to remove the entire dash.
So what I'll do it grab one of those trays that has all the little boxes in it so I can keep track of the screws and nuts etc.
New washer bag kit is on the way from the UK, I have a rough idea of how it'll all fit in the engine bay.
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 3, 2013 12:26:09 GMT
I did warn you it takes3 times as long as you would expect . If you look at the body construction the dashboard top is welded in to provide structural rigidity. I recall the Wolseley is easier than the Austin though! Regards David Well it seems I can't just remove the dash top and need to remove the entire dash. -Andrew |
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Post by tommydp on Sept 3, 2013 20:53:21 GMT
Hi Andrew!
First of all, I've never worked on a Wolseley, but guess the dash top etc is identical to the others.
The dash top panel, black vinyl piece can be removed. There are lots of small nuts to loosen. However, removing this does not give much more access to wheelboxes etc. As Dave says, under this vinyl panel there is a steel panel welded in place. Removing the black, vinyl part and you'll only have extra access through the speaker hole in the middle.
You do not have to remove the panel to get at/ remove/ install wiper wheel boxes or washer jets/ pipes. You may have to remove one of the air ducts for the windscreen.
Why do you want to remove the washer jets? If blocked, have you tried screwing out the jets, the tiny chrome screws and blown compressed air through them?
Regards, Tommy
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Post by indianajones on Sept 4, 2013 1:45:38 GMT
One of my wheel boxes has been flipped or replaced, so the wipers now 'cross', this was done between my two ownership period. Has been annoying for a while and since I'm going to the hassle of replacing the washer set up etc I figured I might as well get the whole system sorted.
One of the jets might be blocked, but I think it's due to the old washer pump being useless, so I'll see how they go with the new pump.
Cheers for the tip, I'll try and remove a windscreen duct and see how I get on. Also how does one remove the wiper wheel box? do I need to remove the bit that wiper arms are fixed to first, or are they one piece? (if that makes sense)
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 4, 2013 2:46:29 GMT
As far as the jets go, try unscrewing them and clean out any debris, calcification etc. Blow through the pipe. I think Tommy may be the best person here to answer how to actually get to the wiper wheelboxes. I think on the Wolseley you have to remove the fascia to access the nearside one. They are secured by 2? screws inside the car and you will need to undo the nut where the wiper arms are connected. When you reassemble ensure the rack is properly greased and that the rack moves freely before reconnecting it to the motor. If not, you need to check that the rack tube is not curved too tightly. You may wish to look at this video of a wiper motor and rack on a Wolseley 24/80 round about 16min 30sec on from the start. linkRegards David One of my wheel boxes has been flipped or replaced, so the wipers now 'cross', this was done between my two ownership period. Has been annoying for a while and since I'm going to the hassle of replacing the washer set up etc I figured I might as well get the whole system sorted. One of the jets might be blocked, but I think it's due to the old washer pump being useless, so I'll see how they go with the new pump. Cheers for the tip, I'll try and remove a windscreen duct and see how I get on. Also how does one remove the wiper wheel box? do I need to remove the bit that wiper arms are fixed to first, or are they one piece? (if that makes sense) -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Sept 7, 2013 1:38:51 GMT
So close!, I managed to get the back of the wheel box off......but I can't remove the pipe/line from it. Any ideas?
Cheers,
Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 7, 2013 3:13:52 GMT
I think Tommy is your man, hopefully he will pick this up or you could PM him. All I can find so far is this on a Triumph website but I think it is the same and gives a pretty good view of the components hereI assume that the tube is held in place by the two wheelboxes but not sure if there are other supporting clips. You may need to withdraw both boxes and the tube together to work on them being very careful not to bend the tube. I've never had to do this job so sorry I can't be of more help. regards David So close!, I managed to get the back of the wheel box off......but I can't remove the pipe/line from it. Any ideas? Cheers, Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Sept 7, 2013 3:59:56 GMT
Cheers David.
Going by the manual it sounds like you can remove the wheel boxes from the pipe in place, unless I'm just reading it wrong. I'll try and get in touch with Tommy _b
Going by that diagram in the link it'd seem I would need to 'unwind' the inner section of the pipe all the way out. Then flip the box and wind it back in.
-Andrew
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