|
|
Post by dave1800 on Jul 12, 2011 7:19:26 GMT
It's been quiet on here since Tommy went on holiday so maybe a good time to ask a question. As some of you know I don't have a Crab at present and will probably have to wait until next year when I will be going to Australia.
I am currently working on a programmable ignition system that will provide separate timing for cylinders 1-4 and 2-3 to compensate for the effects of the siamesed inlet ports (charge robbing).
I would like to use the crankshaft pulley as the trigger source and need to know (a) the diameter of the pulley (b) the minimum clearance between the pulley and the lower radiator support bracket both in front of the pulley and the sides so I can calculate the dimensions of the trigger mechanism.
So, next time anyone feels like crawling under their 1800 with a ruler in their hand, I would be very grateful if you could let me know.
Thanks
David
|
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Jul 12, 2011 8:18:00 GMT
Hi Dave! Sounds like an interesting modification in deed. I'll check out the dimensions later today.
Well, I'm back from a pleasant holiday so no more peace and quiet on this forum:-) Anyway, I've done some progress on the crab, see my reply on the previous post. It's getting better at least! I've also started preparing the Marina for an MOT. Main issue is getting rid of the windscreen leaks, another impossible task it seems:-)
Regards, Tommy:-)
|
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Jul 12, 2011 17:19:35 GMT
"I would like to use the crankshaft pulley as the trigger source and need to know (a) the diameter of the pulley (b) the minimum clearance between the pulley and the lower radiator support bracket both in front of the pulley and the sides so I can calculate the dimensions of the trigger mechanism."
Here are the measures, I did my best to measure as accurately as I could, but they could be a bit rough:-)
Diameter of pulley: 13 cm
Sideways clearance between pulley sides and bracket: 4.5 cm to each side
Frontal clearance between pulley and bracket: 1.5 cm.
I suppose the radiator could be moved a bit away from the engine, using distance pieces to the bracket's engine mount and an uprated upper mount for the thermostat housing.
Hope this helps:-)
Regards, Tommy:-)
|
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Jul 12, 2011 17:48:11 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Jul 13, 2011 8:47:46 GMT
Thanks Tommy that's very helpful. This is an ambitious project and good for keping my brain active. What I hope to do is install a sensor, or sensors, to detect two points on the crankshaft 180 degrees apart. One option is the distributor, but I would like to leave that alone if possible so reversion to the original is easy. I would like to be able to change a fanbelt without moving the sensors, so it looks pretty tight but possible. Regards David Here are the measures, I did my best to measure as accurately as I could, but they could be a bit rough:-) Diameter of pulley: 13 cm Sideways clearance between pulley sides and bracket: 4.5 cm to each side Frontal clearance between pulley and bracket: 1.5 cm. I suppose the radiator could be moved a bit away from the engine, using distance pieces to the bracket's engine mount and an uprated upper mount for the thermostat housing. Hope this helps:-) Regards, Tommy:-) |
|
|
|
Post by threelitre on Jul 13, 2011 13:40:43 GMT
Wow - that stuff looks interesting!! Alexander |
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Jul 14, 2011 10:35:33 GMT
I was wondering whether there is room to fit the trigger to the rear face of the pulley to avoid any issues with the fan belt. Can someone please let me know the clearance from the rear face of the pulley to the timing cover and also the thickness of the back face. Many thanks in advance David "I would like to use the crankshaft pulley as the trigger source and need to know (a) the diameter of the pulley (b) the minimum clearance between the pulley and the lower radiator support bracket both in front of the pulley and the sides so I can calculate the dimensions of the trigger mechanism."Here are the measures, I did my best to measure as accurately as I could, but they could be a bit rough:-) Diameter of pulley: 13 cm Sideways clearance between pulley sides and bracket: 4.5 cm to each side Frontal clearance between pulley and bracket: 1.5 cm. I suppose the radiator could be moved a bit away from the engine, using distance pieces to the bracket's engine mount and an uprated upper mount for the thermostat housing. Hope this helps:-) Regards, Tommy:-) |
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Jul 14, 2011 20:55:44 GMT
Hi all!
The leak sealant looks really great! Thanks! It's not easy to make a Marina water tight! It deserves the name Marina for sure:-)
Dave: I'll check the dimensions tomorrow. Just a thought, though I have no idea about your invention: Perhaps using the bigger Princess 1800 pulley can give you more options when it comes to the mechanism? I'll measure the diameter of that pulley too.
I once had an 1800 with the radiator mounted on the inner wing. Worked well, and could provide more room for the mechanism. Need some longer and flexible hoses perhaps, to take up engine movement.
By all means, I'm sure you've thought of this so sorry if being stupid. However these things just crossed my mind:-)
Regards, Tommy:-)
|
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Jul 15, 2011 7:29:27 GMT
Tommy, thanks in advance. I remember having a Marina to drive from new, it was a company car and it leaked from day one. I always suspected it was flexing around the windscreen. Certainly felt very different to the Landcrab. I'm trying to design this programmable ignition system so that it doesn't involve any permanent and visible mods. There are so few of the cars left worldwide that I feel they should be kept original as possible, but that's just me! I would prefer to use the Landcrab pulley to keep the water pump, dynamo/alternator running at their designed speeds, even though it is tempting to make use of the timing disk that was used on the Princess - or was it the Ambassador, I can't recall. I intend retaining the distributor so that in the event of electronic problems, reverting back is as simple as reconnecting the plug leads to the distributor cap. A number of people have fitted a "missing tooth" timing wheel to the MGB pulleys for use with the Ford EDIS controller, the Ford wasted spark coils and systems such as Megajolt, but I have some other ideas that I would like to try out. This will keep me busy while I am waiting to get the car to fix it to! I do have a test bed car I can use here, an old Nissan which has a BMC A series look alike engine. regards David Hi all! The leak sealant looks really great! Thanks! It's not easy to make a Marina water tight! It deserves the name Marina for sure:-) Dave: I'll check the dimensions tomorrow. Just a thought, though I have no idea about your invention: Perhaps using the bigger Princess 1800 pulley can give you more options when it comes to the mechanism? I'll measure the diameter of that pulley too. I once had an 1800 with the radiator mounted on the inner wing. Worked well, and could provide more room for the mechanism. Need some longer and flexible hoses perhaps, to take up engine movement. By all means, I'm sure you've thought of this so sorry if being stupid. However these things just crossed my mind:-) Regards, Tommy:-) |
|
|
|
Post by threelitre on Jul 15, 2011 9:56:30 GMT
I'm trying to design this programmable ignition system so that it doesn't involve any permanent and visible mods. There are so few of the cars left worldwide that I feel they should be kept original as possible, but that's just me! I intend retaining the distributor so that in the event of electronic problems, reverting back is as simple as reconnecting the plug leads to the distributor cap. A number of people have fitted a "missing tooth" timing wheel to the MGB pulleys for use with the Ford EDIS controller, the Ford wasted spark coils and systems such as Megajolt, but I have some other ideas that I would like to try out. This will keep me busy while I am waiting to get the car to fix it to! I do have a test bed car I can use here, an old Nissan which has a BMC A series look alike engine. Now that sounds intriguing... I am on and off to fit a megajolt or such to my A+ engined Maestro. I run it on LPG most of the time, and the original timing is not really that suited to LPG. I would have bought a programmable 123ignition, as this requires next to no mods, but so far this is not available for A+ engines. Regards, Alexander |
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Jul 15, 2011 10:21:31 GMT
I was wondering whether there is room to fit the trigger to the rear face of the pulley to avoid any issues with the fan belt. Can someone please let me know the clearance from the rear face of the pulley to the timing cover and also the thickness of the back face. Many thanks in advance [/quote] There's approx 1.2 cm between back face of pulley and timing cover. By thickness of back face, do you mean the thickness of the pulley part left of the fanbelt, that is closest to the timing cover? If so, this is 4 mm. There are two 6 mm holes through the inner part of the pulley, on the crankshaft part of the "rubbermoulding", so should stay solid in relation to the crank. I believe these are 180 degrees opposite to eachother. Perhaps these could be to some use? The Princess 1800 pulley has a diameter of 15.5 cm. It too has the two holes through it. Regards, Tommy:-) |
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Jul 15, 2011 10:42:18 GMT
Thanks, I knew it was tight, but i may be able to squeeze something in. The two 6mm holes I think are threaded and I can only assume for using a puller, although I have never had any problem removing the pulleys - but the nut is a different story. Regards, David I was wondering whether there is room to fit the trigger to the rear face of the pulley to avoid any issues with the fan belt. Can someone please let me know the clearance from the rear face of the pulley to the timing cover and also the thickness of the back face. Many thanks in advance There's approx 1.2 cm between back face of pulley and timing cover. By thickness of back face, do you mean the thickness of the pulley part left of the fanbelt, that is closest to the timing cover? If so, this is 4 mm. There are two 6 mm holes through the inner part of the pulley, on the crankshaft part of the "rubbermoulding", so should stay solid in relation to the crank. I believe these are 180 degrees opposite to eachother. Perhaps these could be to some use? The Princess 1800 pulley has a diameter of 15.5 cm. It too has the two holes through it. Regards, Tommy:-)[/quote] |
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Jul 15, 2011 10:53:36 GMT
Have you looked at the 123 "Tune" ignition. It is relatively new addition to the range where a standard set up is not available. You can set up the advance curves with your laptop. It looks like a very easy installation and has a facility to switch between two curves to suit the type of fuel you are using - they quote using regular petrol and LPG as an example. regards David Read more: landcrabs.proboards.com/index.cgi#ixzz1SAbbAUk1I'm trying to design this programmable ignition system so that it doesn't involve any permanent and visible mods. There are so few of the cars left worldwide that I feel they should be kept original as possible, but that's just me! I intend retaining the distributor so that in the event of electronic problems, reverting back is as simple as reconnecting the plug leads to the distributor cap. A number of people have fitted a "missing tooth" timing wheel to the MGB pulleys for use with the Ford EDIS controller, the Ford wasted spark coils and systems such as Megajolt, but I have some other ideas that I would like to try out. This will keep me busy while I am waiting to get the car to fix it to! I do have a test bed car I can use here, an old Nissan which has a BMC A series look alike engine. Now that sounds intriguing... I am on and off to fit a megajolt or such to my A+ engined Maestro. I run it on LPG most of the time, and the original timing is not really that suited to LPG. I would have bought a programmable 123ignition, as this requires next to no mods, but so far this is not available for A+ engines. Regards, Alexander |
|
|
|
Post by threelitre on Jul 15, 2011 22:23:02 GMT
Have you looked at the 123 "Tune" ignition. That's the one I meant - sadly not available for A+ engines... Alexander |
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Jul 16, 2011 2:10:25 GMT
That's a shame. It seems odd as they sell the non "tune" version for the A+; have you asked whether they could assemble one for you ? Have you looked at the 123 "Tune" ignition. That's the one I meant - sadly not available for A+ engines... Alexander |
|
