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Post by halkyon on Jun 16, 2022 9:20:36 GMT
Did the coolant flush yesterday - some interesting discoveries like the rad being held on by one metric bolt and one plastic cable-tie, and a jiggle-pin in the thermostat made of an electrical connector. I suppose it works though!
New top, bottom, and heater hoses give me piece of mind, as well as the correct coolant of course. By chance I found the cork Morris Minor 1000 thermostat gaskets are flexible enough to fit the crab well enough. Parts sharing is becoming a theme after the steering wheel.
I don't suppose anyone knows the ID of the expansion tank and inlet manifold water pipes?
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 16, 2022 17:44:50 GMT
GFB185 is the belt. 825mm. Same as the Morris Minor!
No idea on the hoses I'm afraid.
C.
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Post by halkyon on Jun 22, 2022 20:08:07 GMT
Double check the wheel bearings - they're a taper set-up, so there should be some play. Wheel bearing info in the Technical Articles section. I have now read that thread and the winter 2016 issue of the magazine. There is no bearing noise on my car rather just a bit of play. Perhaps if I find my dial gauge, measure the end float and check the nut is at the required torque as a first go?
No pictures but I've had all the brakes apart, checked the seals, cleaned everything up and bled it all, putting plenty of new fluid through. Pads & shoes all good, three different spanners needed for the four nipples though so I'd like to replace those. The only problem with the rears I spotted was they were slightly over-adjusted (I could not turn the rear wheels by hand with the handbrake off and the drums did not want to come off until I realised why and stopped hitting them). Clutch fluid also refreshed - it was black!
Today I attempted an oil change only to discover that the fitted spin-on conversion takes GFE166 rather than GF149. At least they're cheap and available - shared with 73-96 Minis - but none in my garage. Flushed quite a bit of black out with some cheap Wilko 20W50 I had lying around and pulled a mildly concerning amount of metallic debris off the magnetic sump plug.
It runs sweetly with 60lb+ of indicated oil pressure but this car hasn't been pampered to my standards recently!
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Post by andrewa on Jun 23, 2022 6:31:12 GMT
For what it's worth completely agree with check and adjust approach to bearings - that's probably all it needs.
Again with the magnetic sump plug I remember the first couple of oil changes were as you say "alarming" but it soon went from porcupine to hedgehog to what one would expect. On the 1800 the oil change interval is 3000 miles - like the MBG - but few stick to that I'd imagine.
Bet it's already feeling like a different car.
Very taken with the little Nissan - what a cutie! What are they like to drive?
Cheers
Andrew
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Post by halkyon on Jun 23, 2022 10:27:56 GMT
Very taken with the little Nissan - what a cutie! What are they like to drive? The Pao is the sister car to the Figaro, which you may have seen around more. They're both based on the original K10 Micras so are super simple little boxes that handle like little toys, especially as these tend to have PAS. We swapped the original knackered 1l & 3-speed auto for a 1.2l & 5-speed manual from a donor K10, it's a lot of fun being just 750kg, and you can fit a dressing table in the boot with the back seats down!
I detailed some of the minor resto here on another forum.
In crab news - my local motor parts direct has one GFE166 filter in stock and have ordered a second for me.  |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 23, 2022 17:34:53 GMT
The bleed screws are different between front and rear. Girling 601959 for the front, 3H 2428 for the rear.
C.
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Post by halkyon on Jun 23, 2022 17:52:06 GMT
Thanks Chris, I believe Tony has some. One of the rears was fine with a 7/16" or 3/8" spanner but I had to dig something weird out for the other to crack it without rounding, a 13/32" socket if I recall correctly.
Today I finished the oil change with the correct filter and did all the fuel and breather lines under the bonnet, plus the two coolant ones we didn't get to yet (which are 8mm or 5/16"). Tackling the poorly mounted aftermarket fuel pump and checking the front wheel bearing play tomorrow - then lets hope I get to Kelmarsh okay to see some of you!
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Post by dave1800 on Jun 24, 2022 7:01:00 GMT
When checking the front wheel bearings it is advisable to temporarily replace the cone with a plain flat washer and then fully tighten the hub nut to ensure the driving flange is properly seated. The washer can then be replaced with the cone. Just tightening against the cone can fail to seat the driving flange. This could be the cause of the play if this procedure wasn't followed if the hubs have been dismantled in the past.
David
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Post by halkyon on Jun 26, 2022 16:00:23 GMT
We made it to Kelmarsh and met a few of you, including readers who don't post - hello! Thanks for the lovely chats.
I got slightly nervous getting there as the engine temperature showed 3/4 of the way to "H" when doing more than 55mph - do these water pumps tend to cavitate? Does the temperature gauge have a voltage regulator that could be on the blink? Either way, I think I'll make sure I have the 74C thermostat and pick up a spare pump.
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 26, 2022 17:40:15 GMT
Yup, plenty of people on here who never post.
The water pump on the 2200 is covered in the LOCI magazine Vol 32-04 2021. It is (apparently) subtly different from that fitted to other "E" series engines.
Anyway, good hear that she's been out and about and not let you down.
C.
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Post by andrewa on Jun 27, 2022 6:58:18 GMT
Many drill small hole in thermostat to reduce likelihood of cavitation, if it was me I'd do that when putting new thermostat then water pump then turn attention to rad - getting that properly cleaned out and pressure tested and then perhaps think of upgrading to more modern fan or two slightly smaller ones.
Pao is now on shopping list! Along with Derby Bentley, Chapron DS and '57 Chevy!
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Post by halkyon on Jun 28, 2022 18:13:21 GMT
Right then, the one job that scares me a little - the front N/S hub nut needed a tiny little nip up but was close to 150ft-lb/203nm, O/S was really rather loose and tightened up to the next available gap for the split pin. Still detectable play pulling it by hand but much reduced, a test drive and a measure next chance I get.
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Post by dave1800 on Jun 29, 2022 1:23:26 GMT
It's worth keeping an eye on the o/s and check it regularly. If it becomes loose again I would advise against just re-tightening it and identify the problem to avoid possible damage to the hub (voice of experience!).
David
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Post by halkyon on Jun 30, 2022 18:25:29 GMT
The test drive became delivering teenagers to a prom for a friend of my neighbours - I was quite terrified we'd break down but all good - and no horrific wheel bearing death rattles or front o/s knocks over bumps either.
Who thought crabs would have hire potential? 
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 30, 2022 23:26:46 GMT
Who thought crabs would have hire potential? The 1800 was Leeds official "Black and White" cab from the mid 60's and into the 70's. I imagine the 2200's thirst would have been rather off-putting to a cabbie! Chris. |
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