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Post by paddymk2 on Mar 9, 2021 8:26:15 GMT
Hi all
I went to prepare the engine (to be removed)
Drained the radiator (clean green), Drained the transmission (clean pink)
Opened the drain plug on the engine oil - nothing - not a drip!
What on earth!?
There was the signs of something like a little bit of thread lock on the threads of the plug.
The dip stick showed level a bit low - but clean fresh (unused) oil.
I added some more oil just in case - it glugged down but nothing came out the hole.
There is only one plug (plus the transmission - something stupidly obvious - or more sinister?
Paddy
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Post by tonymark3 on Mar 9, 2021 18:19:19 GMT
Hi. Which drain plug have you removed? On manual engines it is on the right hand rear of the casing.
Auto engines , the book says, the plug is below the crankshaft pulley, between the engine oil cover and casing extension. (I dont have an auto so cant check)
Tony S
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Post by paddymk2 on Mar 11, 2021 8:46:16 GMT
Hi Tony
You know when your 99% certain but you just want to be sure to be sure.
So I crawled back under again and then had another look at that big sump shield and realised it had to be way over to the LHS. And there it was on the side!
Out came the oil - not to dark but the car has only run 5 miles in 2 years!
So thanks a million for that tip!
Where are you - next time you're in Adelaide I owe you a pint!
Onwards and upwards
Paddy
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Post by jeff on Mar 11, 2021 14:53:52 GMT
I had that feeling of horror when I came to do an oil change on my 1800 manual. I found not a proper sump plug but a tapered self tapping bung. I thought it was a botch but on further investigation found that minispares.com, supply these tapered bungs. They aren't really a professional fix but with a few turns of PTFE tape and being careful not to over tighten they provide a good seal until you can fit a Helicoil re thread or tap the hole for a bigger plug.
The stripped thread was a common problem on Mini's etc and done properly they fo provide an oil tight seal.
Word of warning. If anyone goes down the tapered bung fix dont over tighten or you could crack the gearbox.
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Post by tonymark3 on Mar 11, 2021 21:04:12 GMT
1. 12,000 plus miles away, Oxfordshire.
2. Good tip. Suspect over tightened plugs have old hard copper washers and that’s the reason for overdoing it.
Tony S
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 17, 2021 12:16:05 GMT
Interesting comments from RetroRides. I'd ignore the quantities - not our auto box. Thanks Phil , i did dip the box a while ago , it was above the high level by 5mm , and was totally clear .. i know i am supposed to check the level with it running , but i assumed it must be pretty full from that check ? Check it again- the fluid coupling doesn't fill as you fill the box, that needs the pump. Once it's full it takes a few weeks to leak down, and then only half of it empties back into the sump. From totally empty you need to add just a smidge more than 11 litres, which leaves the fluid nearly halfway up the dipstick, maybe 3 finger widths high. The fluid coupling sucks down about 5 litres! But yes, the check is running, in Dr. and should then be close to the marks; the final level will come about once it's been able to cycle through all gears plus reverse. Phil Chris. |
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Post by paddymk2 on Mar 19, 2021 2:13:54 GMT
Thanks for that tip.
In the BW35TA manual it states under fault diagnosis
Symptom "Whine from converter, for short period
following engine starting after vehicle
has been standing for. say, not less than
12 hours"
And Cause "Converter valve faulty. no detriment to
performance (located within turbine
shaft)"
I might not be bothered then - except it is throwing out gulps of transmission oil - and I'm not getting it quite after 5 minutes off, rather than 12 hours or more.
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Post by paddymk2 on Mar 19, 2021 2:33:57 GMT
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