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Post by jeff on Oct 21, 2020 16:18:55 GMT
Hi, well I've started to replace the exhaust system on my MK1.
Taking advice from input to my previous thread, I wasn't happy that all of the old sealant was cleaned off the manifold to pipe joint. There were layers of stuff some like concrete. So, to absolutely certain I decided to remove the manifolds. Easier said than done of course.
The oil breather from the tappet chest is right in the way making it very difficult to ease the manifold off the far right stud.
Somehow, I managed to force it off the stud but getting it back on could be fun.
I did think of removing the oil breather but cant get at the bolt until the manifold is off. I did try to remove the fsr right stud using a lock nut but theres no room and I didnt want to risk breaking the stud in the head. What a faff! Of course the WM,just says remove carb etc, and the six nuts and washers. Yeah, right. Have any of the learned members found an easy way of doing this?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 22, 2020 17:35:11 GMT
Got say I've had the manifold off a few times over the years without any real problems. Can't think of any real quirks between the MkI and MkII. I did take the air filter and carb(s) off first and release the heater pipe, but that was the only other disassembly I did.
Unless others know better......
Chris.
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Post by jeff on Oct 22, 2020 23:31:04 GMT
Thanks buddy, I didnt expect trouble having removed carb and water rail. It's that metal can from the tappet chest connecting to the emissions valve via a hose
Hmmm, I'm waiting for a new manifold gasket to arrive. The plot thickens.
Cheers.
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 23, 2020 0:49:20 GMT
I agree with Chris, never an issue. There are differences between the Mk1 and Mk11/111 manifolds but that is limited to the inlet design and the angle of the carb none of which affected dismantling. Mk111 cars had a modified oil breather arrangement, but again not an issue. Maybe if you can post a photo we can see if there is something odd?
David
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Post by tonymark3 on Oct 23, 2020 19:09:49 GMT
Just a general comment which others may also do. Get yourself some brass nuts (same as mini etc) for the manifold. The studs and nuts suffer over the years, so also worth replacing the studs if possible. Same as MGB so not expensive. Don’t forget the manifold is slotted so lifts up.
Tony S
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Post by jeff on Oct 27, 2020 21:04:24 GMT
Thanks guys for the input.
Believe me, I've had many B series manifolds and heads off in the past, never a problem until now. I do wonder if it has the correct crankcase breather arrangement.if it's an incorrect part ie, too big.?? I dont recall ever having to remove a tappet chest cover with integral can type gauze filter before to give the manifold clearance. Even to do that would be extremely difficult to access its bolt with the manifold in place.
The engine has been rebuilt in the past so it could be that the oil breather got damaged and subsequently shortened and re welded, I dont know yet.
Tony s,only the 4 centre mountings are slotted. The end 2 are not, so the manifold must be removed towards the bulkhead if the end studs are in place.
I managed to remove the manifolds with difficulty and brute force. Getting it back on could be a challenge. I already have a stock of MGB studs and nuts and the two end studs at least look a bit worse for wear.
Tomorrow is another day and new gasket, so I'll see how it goes putting it back. Something definitely isn't right. The simplest of jobs sometimes end up being a real pig. If all else fails, I could remove the end studs. Getting the one nearest the radiator back in with the manifold in place could be a laugh.
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 28, 2020 0:21:04 GMT
From the parts listing:
Side cover with "oil separator" for MkI engine.
12H 1419 - NLA use 12H1854 with 2 gaskets, 2 spacers and 2 washers.
12H 1854 - NLA use 12H3684
12H 3684 - carried forward onto MkIIs and IIIs.
So, perhaps the cover's been changed and not spaced out. Don't fancy that idea much. It's hard enough getting the blighters to seal with just one gasket.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 28, 2020 0:26:56 GMT
Sorry for all your troubles, I did suggest posting a photo if possible so we may get a better idea of the cause of the issue.
David
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Post by jeff on Oct 28, 2020 12:06:18 GMT
Well there you go. After much fretting an faffing, a good clean of the head face, and the manifold,chased the threads down on the two end studs, new gasket and the manifold is back on. A very tight squeeze around that breather can but its on, and tightened down from the centre outwards and no broken studs. PHEW!
Right, now for the fun part. Install the new exhaust without help. Think it probably best to get the front pipe in and clamped up first before trying to maul that new heavy silencer and tail pipe in.
At least I've got a pair of hydraulic ramps which give almost half a metre of extra height at the front.
Thanks for the input guys.
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Post by tonymark3 on Oct 28, 2020 13:44:13 GMT
Ah, my mistake. Mine is all slots so just slides up. Presumably a later change. Glad you have got it done.
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 28, 2020 14:06:44 GMT
Not sure if there is a right way, but I found when doing it alone that loosely assembling the front pipe and clamps first supported by a jack seemed to work best for me. David Right, now for the fun part. Install the new exhaust without help. Think it probably best to get the front pipe in and clamped up first before trying to maul that new heavy silencer and tail pipe in. At least I've got a pair of hydraulic ramps which give almost half a metre of extra height at the front. Thanks for the input guys. |
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Post by jeff on Oct 28, 2020 14:20:26 GMT
David, thanks for that. At what point did you apply the sealing paste?. I'm a bit worried the paste might go off before nipping up the front clamp
Jeff
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 28, 2020 23:59:49 GMT
I didn't apply the paste until the whole system was securely in place, then used a jack under the downpipe to hold it in alignment while I tightened the front clamp. Back in the 1960s and early 1970s the exhaust systems could rot in less than two years, the Mk11 rear box and the flexible joint being the worst offenders. They were so badly made it was a horrible job, in the end I opted for the Kwik Fit solution for around the same price as the BL parts. David David, thanks for that. At what point did you apply the sealing paste?. I'm a bit worried the paste might go off before nipping up the front clamp Jeff |
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Post by jeff on Oct 31, 2020 16:29:18 GMT
Thanks David,
Now I've hit another snag with fitting this exhaust system.
The old exhaust to transmission case bracket is pretty much corroded away and instead of a jubilee type clip has a U clamp fitted instead to hold what's left of the bracket to the pipe. I can see why but it ain't right.
Tony, from the club has provided a new, later type clamp but it's too short. The mounting holes to the transmission case are the same, and both MK1 and mk2 front pipes appear the same shape.
Does anyone know if the later bracket, which uses a U bolt and clamp type fitting, go in a different place around the transmission case?
?
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Post by tonymark3 on Nov 1, 2020 11:09:29 GMT
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