Post by jeff on Jul 20, 2020 20:27:14 GMT
Hi all,
I'm in the throes of replacing the bulkhead brake pipes and master cylinder on my 66 Morris MK1.
I bought a correct replacement master cylinder from LOCI's Tony Wood, a proper Girling unit, and that's fitted with a new seal kit and it works.
Now this is where I need some help please.
While I was at it,I decided to replace the old bulkhead pipework which was an untidy mangle of kunifer (copper nickle) I think..
I've got some new 3/16 kunifer pipe ordered, some new 3/8 UNF 24 tpi male and female nuts, and a new flaring tool with formers and die (My old one is a worn out cheapo styrup type and always gave uneven flares).
I have already discovered the fitting in the Inertia Valve on the inner wing to the servo is 7/16 UNF, which I thought a bit odd. That's not a problem as I have a couple for 3/16 pipe, just a bit weird for some strange reason.
What I cant work out is what the correct flares are as the old ones were crushed and butchered,no doubt to stop leaks.
From the Master cylinder to servo,which is a replacement Lockheed, and servo to G valve, there are three 3/16 UNF male nuts and one 7/16 already mentioned.
Now, when I make the flares,what type are they?
1 single SAE flare (possibly)
2 double (inverted) SAE flare
3 DIN (metric) bubble flare (flat back)....Doubtful
4 old type British Girling (similar to DIN but not quite)
My understanding from various web sites and videos is, The single SAE flare was used for male nuts such as those I'm working with and the double or inverted flare is used for female nuts such as connecting solid pipe to flexible hoses.
The old style British Girling is so outdated, nobody seems to sell a flaring tool for that anymore.
I'm sure you'll understand my concerns here as mismatched flares could leak and be potentially dangerous if cracked or crushed up like the old ones were.
The nuts I have are really for classic BMC minis, but I guess they are the same on early Landcrabs. The threads fit nicely and they have a slight taper inside the end, unlike the metric DIN type which have flat ends.
I'm assuming that many members will have changed their old steel pipes by now with kunifer or copper and I would be very grateful of any tips or knowledge.
Sorry for dragging on this.
Thanks
Jeff.
I'm in the throes of replacing the bulkhead brake pipes and master cylinder on my 66 Morris MK1.
I bought a correct replacement master cylinder from LOCI's Tony Wood, a proper Girling unit, and that's fitted with a new seal kit and it works.
Now this is where I need some help please.
While I was at it,I decided to replace the old bulkhead pipework which was an untidy mangle of kunifer (copper nickle) I think..
I've got some new 3/16 kunifer pipe ordered, some new 3/8 UNF 24 tpi male and female nuts, and a new flaring tool with formers and die (My old one is a worn out cheapo styrup type and always gave uneven flares).
I have already discovered the fitting in the Inertia Valve on the inner wing to the servo is 7/16 UNF, which I thought a bit odd. That's not a problem as I have a couple for 3/16 pipe, just a bit weird for some strange reason.
What I cant work out is what the correct flares are as the old ones were crushed and butchered,no doubt to stop leaks.
From the Master cylinder to servo,which is a replacement Lockheed, and servo to G valve, there are three 3/16 UNF male nuts and one 7/16 already mentioned.
Now, when I make the flares,what type are they?
1 single SAE flare (possibly)
2 double (inverted) SAE flare
3 DIN (metric) bubble flare (flat back)....Doubtful
4 old type British Girling (similar to DIN but not quite)
My understanding from various web sites and videos is, The single SAE flare was used for male nuts such as those I'm working with and the double or inverted flare is used for female nuts such as connecting solid pipe to flexible hoses.
The old style British Girling is so outdated, nobody seems to sell a flaring tool for that anymore.
I'm sure you'll understand my concerns here as mismatched flares could leak and be potentially dangerous if cracked or crushed up like the old ones were.
The nuts I have are really for classic BMC minis, but I guess they are the same on early Landcrabs. The threads fit nicely and they have a slight taper inside the end, unlike the metric DIN type which have flat ends.
I'm assuming that many members will have changed their old steel pipes by now with kunifer or copper and I would be very grateful of any tips or knowledge.
Sorry for dragging on this.
Thanks
Jeff.
