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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 14, 2012 18:32:12 GMT
I've done the "delicate" bit of welding. Allowing for the fact that there's no such thing as delicate welding with a mig, it worked out pretty well.  Template.  Outside.  Inside. Panel was welded across the bottom, then wrapped around the remnants of the grill from the back. A combination of clamps and hammers forced the shape and it has been plugged, seamed and spot welded into place. Given that this will be hidden by the radiator from the inside and a wheel from the outside, I'm not going to try and get a factory finish. Solidity is everything. It's now in the zinc rich primer. I'll go over the joints with seam sealer later. I think that's it for the welding, so I'll strip out some more stuff from the engine bay tomorrow and then it cleaning, stripping and re-rusting. Chris. |
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Post by Keef on Jan 14, 2012 18:38:51 GMT
I think that's it for the welding, Good news Chris.  |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 14, 2012 19:42:27 GMT
The comment does, of course, fall into the category known as "Famous Last Words"................
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Jan 14, 2012 22:21:08 GMT
Looking good Chris I need to learn this art one day... -Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 15, 2012 1:06:18 GMT
Well worthwhile, Andrew. I'm not going to say that welding is dead easy, but it certainly isn't difficult. Getting the metal surfaces clean is essential, beyond that, it is just practice and developing a bit of "feel" for what you're trying to do. There are fora out there offering advice and support - MIG Welding Forum is a good example - and they're well worth at least reading up on. When the word gets round that you can weld, all of a sudden you have new friends. Only last week I was welding up the frame of a cement mixer....... Chris. |
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Post by Keef on Jan 15, 2012 1:39:45 GMT
Only last week I was welding up the frame of a cement mixer....... I see your mixer and raise you a computer chair.  |
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Post by indianajones on Jan 15, 2012 3:18:03 GMT
hmmm I shall look into this welding stuff -Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 15, 2012 9:41:39 GMT
Looks like a good solid job, Keef.
Chris.
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Post by Keef on Jan 15, 2012 10:09:42 GMT
Looks like a good solid job, Keef. Not quite up to your standards, but as you know it gets better with practice. |
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Post by sherpa on Jan 15, 2012 21:21:13 GMT
There are fora out there offering advice and support - MIG Welding Forum is a good example - and they're well worth at least reading up on. I second that site. Its a really interesting site which covers all aspects of bodywork from cutting out to final polish to new paint. The guides are excellent from the bloke who does them. He claims to be a DIY'er but his work looks second to none. Modest bloke- check it out. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 15, 2012 21:54:26 GMT
Eyup, Sherpa.
What did you spray onto the bottom half of your engine bay, before the top coat?
Chris.
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Post by sherpa on Jan 15, 2012 22:52:37 GMT
Eyup Chris (Liking the Northern speak!)
Bottom half was done in Tetrosyl Stonechip then snowberry white topcoat. Before we put the engine in I masked it off and sprayed waxoyl underbody seal over the top of it so i could get waxy stuff around those 2 triangle things and the other hard to reach bits just for reassurance. I had loads of welding done round these areas so was ver paranoid of rust issues here, from the photos yours looks pretty good where mine was bad though..
Dinitrol is better than Waxoyl if you dont use stonechip first cos it stays soft and waxy whereas waxoyl tends to get brittle over time and end up trapping moisture.
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 16, 2012 0:45:52 GMT
Thanks. Waxoyl, barge-pole, with, wouldn't touch - feel free to arrange in the correct order.........  I like the Dinitrol products, the sills are awash with their cavity wax. Did you put the top coat on straight on top of the stonechip, or did you do a barrier coat? I'll be spraying cellulose and it can be touchy stuff. Thanks, Chris. |
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Post by sherpa on Jan 16, 2012 21:25:00 GMT
I went straight on top with 2 pack. Im sure it will be ok to go straight on with cellulose as the stonechip is a good primer anyway.
Stonechip can sometimes be temperamental, needs to be prepared spot on and all very clean from grease/old underseal etc. before an etch or similar primer is applied. My mate sprayed it on over an oil based Red Oxide and it crazed terribly as the stonechip softened the underlying primer - So dont use an oil based primer first!
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 22, 2012 20:12:32 GMT
Managed to spend most of today on the car. Progress has been hampered during the week by an excruciatingly painful shoulder, which has finally eased off after over a week. Started off by getting the engine bay fully emptied.  Set to with the wire brush and anglegrinder on all seams and vaguely rusty looking surfaces. Consequences were inevitable......  Ho, hum. Chopped it all out properly and set to with the mig.  Went to reverse weld it from the other side and......   That's been filled in as well. Now ground back, primered and seam sealered. Seeing as the mig was out, I seamed in the top bracket of the front engine mounting bracket at the same time.  And that better had be an end of the welding. The whole thing has been treated with rust converter, so might be able to get on with some priming during the week. Chris. |
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I like the Dinitrol products, the sills are awash with their cavity wax.