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Post by Penguin45 on May 28, 2020 8:53:04 GMT
 CRBs2 by Penguin 45, on Flickr Brand new carbon bearing on the right. Not a lot there to start with! Seals - the only one you'll come across is the crank seal behind the flywheel, I think. AHU2242. C. |
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Post by jeff on May 28, 2020 22:46:02 GMT
Tony from LOCI, will be able to tell you all you need..seals shouldn't be a problem. But at the risk of not trying to tell you how to suck eggs, be very careful what seals you go for. Old stock rubber can be a pile of poo. Tony probably has an alternative. I've been in and under crabs and buses all my working life. Retired now thank god, but still have just, yet again, bought a MK1 crab, couldnt resist.
That crab power unit is a seriously heavy lump, 540 odd pounds in full dress so do take care. You'll find the clutch like no other being inboard as opposed to outboard like Mini 1100 etc. Its weired but self explanatory one you strip it down.
Tony will give you the best pic of the parts and at very reasonable cost. I've just bought several bottom end gaskets and seals and I'm pretty sure he can supply all you need. Hopefuly
you wont need go any further than the transfer box and clutch. From memory, I think he can supply a ball race type release bearing, much better than a carbon ring.
Once you've got it all back and set up, it will have been well worth the effort. Good luck. I look forward to the updates.
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Post by 1800heap on May 29, 2020 2:46:14 GMT
Don't forget the hidden bolt when you are trying to pull off the bell housing assembly. Otherwise like me last time I pulled one off you will be beating it to death wondering why it won't come off! Then you will check the WM and realise you missed one!😁
Nick
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bwa
Member
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Post by bwa on Jun 1, 2020 2:17:46 GMT
Yeah, know all about Landcrab hidden bolts......When I was 18 or so, I pulled the motor on Dad's 68 Crab, did it with leaving the Auto trans in the car (had no lifting tackle available). Wasn't too bad, rear trans to block bolts were a bit fiddly, had everything unbolted, but, couldn't get the Lump to separate from the gearbox.......
Struggled for a couple of hours, sweating, grunting, prying, all the usual stuff.......Finally had another crawl under it, and, discovered one last bolt, right in the middle of the pan, going right up into the centre main bearing cap, popped that, and, out it came.....Sheeesh, what a kerfuffle......
Anyway, got it out in the end.....
That pic of the release bearings, is about the same as my used one, so, must be only slightly used......
I had guessed the weight to be about 550 pounds, so, pretty close....
Thanks again for all the info guys....
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bwa
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Post by bwa on Jun 1, 2020 2:36:09 GMT
Well, and so it starts, will be a week or so before I can get Crabby in the shed (3600 sq ft, and, I can't fit one more car in there), busy cleaning out and trying to make some room.... So, I read the roller clutch release bearing link, interesting....Did some searching round the shop (whilst cleaning and sorting) to see if I had a suitable lump of iron to carve into a release thingamy.....everything I had, was, either too small, or, way too big, as, in 4" diameter and, 6 inches long....would have been carving for weeks on my poor little lathe..... Finally spotted a steel bushing (mandrel adapter off old style spin the tyre up on the car type wheel balancer), that looked like it had all the dimensions covered, just needs a bit of machining to find those dimensions.... And, boy, is that sucker hard, definitely tool steel grade, with about 1/16" deep surface hardness..... Any way, here it is being taught some manners.....  BWA1800-Clutch-Release-Brg-01 BWA1800-Clutch-Release-Brg-02 |
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bwa
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Post by bwa on Jun 12, 2020 18:48:13 GMT
Well, finally got the end of the shed cleared (had one of those pesky little Minis in the way), and pushed Crabby in......
Up on jack stands, got the rubber couplings undone, a bit worse than doing Mini ones, but, not too terrible.....Had a look at the tie bar mounts, they are in pretty brilliant condition, but, will take them out and give them a scrub up and quick splash of paint while I'm down there.......
Taking lots of pics, hope to do a blow by blow account of how to do this.....
Rubber couplings appear to be not too bad, just about at the end of their service life, so, will fit new ones.....
Is it normall to have sliding Diff joints, AND sliding axles, this car has both.....
Both axles have a slight knocking back and forth at the outer hub end, is this likely to be play in the CVs, or, the dreaded loose drive flange splines???
As always, more later....
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bwa
Member
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Post by bwa on Aug 14, 2020 20:55:05 GMT
OK, finally got this Pig apart.............I will never ever complain about changing the clutch in a Mini ever again, my best time being 25 minutes, including the Big Red Seal.............. Can't understand why I had no drive........  OK, why is my pic only a thunmbnail, all my others have shown up full size?  ? |
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 14, 2020 23:15:29 GMT
OK, finally got this Pig apart.............I will never ever complain about changing the clutch in a Mini ever again, my best time being 25 minutes, including the Big Red Seal.............. Hello - was wondering where you'd got to. Welcome to the club! No doubt they died in their thousands in late life because people couldn't face the expense and complexity of changing the clutch. Can't understand why I had no drive........ Friction plate looks pretty acceptable to me. Free to move on the splines? OK, why is my pic only a thunmbnail, all my others have shown up full size? ? The forum is a free Proboards site and has very limited picture storage before we have to start paying for the priviledge. I am not really prepared to do that, so many (especially large) images get pulled, popped into Flickr and edited back into the forum posts. It's one of the strange god-like powers you get as Admin....... You'll have to trust me on this one, but I have never changed a word of anyone's text, however.  BWA1800 clutchplate by Penguin 45, on Flickr  No doubt the mechanical experts will chime in shortly. I'm really just the bodywork guy. Chris. |
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bwa
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Post by bwa on Aug 14, 2020 23:33:37 GMT
Actually, my "wondering why" was tongue in cheek, as, there is absolutely no friction material left on this face of the clutch.....
The other side is better, but, still worn through to the rivets.........
So, now the big decision, bang a new MGB clutch plate in it and go, or, do the right thing, and, replace everything it needs, right from motor mounts, seals, flex lines, calipers, rotors, pressure plate, shifter seals.................and on and on...........
Can see easily over 2,000.00 in parts, plus shipping from England to Canada. $$$$$$$$$$
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 15, 2020 9:46:08 GMT
Split the task into two parts. What do I need to do and what would I like to do? You need to sort the clutch properly, simply because of the sheer level of work involved, so yes, you'll need to find a pressure plate and release bearing. Most everything else can be done with the engine back in situ.
Then consider what is a specific to the car and what is not. Calipers are Girling 16P imperial units and saw service in millions of Fords, also TR6, MGC, Rover P6, so finding service kits on your side of the pond shouldn't really be a big problem. Drive shaft seals are just standard imperial lip seals available from any good bearing stockist. Brake discs are long since obsolete, so a light skim is your only option. Brake hoses can be made or sourced cheaply. Mine were a full set made by a firm in Argentina for about £24 delivered! eBay can be useful!
Chris.
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