|
Post by rosieuk on May 3, 2019 13:44:16 GMT
Has anyone fitted one of these to a landcrab? It'd be very good for fast warm up of the engine (especially during the colder weather) but kind of concerned it'll try and run all the time and I'm still on dynamo. I've found a 9" one with thermostatic control that will fit within the standard fan cowl (blowing through and out as the engine connected one does).
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Also are the back left engine mounts still available? - mine isn't looking very happy. Looks like a steel & rubber sandwich - which is beginning to become unsandwiched.
|
|
|
Post by snoopy11 on May 4, 2019 10:42:07 GMT
Tony Wood at LOCI sells uprated engine mounts
Regarding the fan. I am running both the standard one and a small thermostatic fan that sucks from the opposite side when the engine is overheating
|
|
|
Post by rosieuk on May 4, 2019 19:50:37 GMT
Tony Wood at LOCI sells uprated engine mounts Regarding the fan. I am running both the standard one and a small thermostatic fan that sucks from the opposite side when the engine is overheating If you mean that long bar engine mount on the battery side its already got that fitted. I need the one on the servo side that looks like a flat sandwich plate. I've not had a problem with overheating, it doesn't seem to get beyond about 92/95°c - I'm just wondering if an electric would be more efficient.
|
|
|
Post by andrewa on May 5, 2019 10:29:12 GMT
Hi - yes Tony Wood does both types for the position you require- the original and there's an uprated option that can't fall apart. Getting shot of the mechanical fan may release an extra 1 bhp if you're lucky and the whole thing is quieter (more than you'd expect). I gave it a lot of thought on my car and decided against. It doesn't overheat anyway and it's something else to go wrong (particularly if you're miles from no where - in my case on a rally). Received wisdom is it does a more helpful job if it's sucking on the other side of the rad for what it's worth. Be interested to see how you get on if you decide to proceed.
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on May 5, 2019 13:58:30 GMT
Yes, the late Minis fitted with aircon used an electric fan sucking air through the radiator and were mounted in the inner wing under the wheel arch.
One thing to consider is the current consumption so best wired using a relay - and must not suffer from a low voltage like your headlamps.
David
|
|
|
Post by rosieuk on May 5, 2019 17:53:46 GMT
Hi - yes Tony Wood does both types for the position you require- the original and there's an uprated option that can't fall apart. Getting shot of the mechanical fan may release an extra 1 bhp if you're lucky and the whole thing is quieter (more than you'd expect). I gave it a lot of thought on my car and decided against. It doesn't overheat anyway and it's something else to go wrong (particularly if you're miles from no where - in my case on a rally). Received wisdom is it does a more helpful job if it's sucking on the other side of the rad for what it's worth. Be interested to see how you get on if you decide to proceed. I don't think I'm going to bother with it. It isn't overheating - but it's being a right pain in the behind. I put a colourtune on it, and the colourtune on 2nd cylinder showed rich but the sparkplug was perfect chocolate colour so I leaned it a little (at idle) until it showed the blue with a tiny bit of yellow - went for a run - came back and the sparkplug is reading horribly lean (white). So I turned the mixture screw so it was richer, clockwise, until engine dropped a bit, and tried again, showing even leaner than before. The thing doesn't seem to be comfortable with the laws of physics - more fuel in with the engine running - means more fuel to burn and a darker plug, not with this thing. I can't get anyone credible to work on it, I get advised to go to people who don't even have to hear the full model name before I'm told to go away and do something biblical. Either that or they don't have the faintest clue and cock things up monumentally. I've got an electronic ignition kit for it but I'm not well enough, nor do I have crimping tools, to fit it - so that's £60 gone if I get it fitted, without any guarantee they'll do a good job, or that it'll solve any problems. Incidentally - on a negative earth car which side of the coil should the LT wire from the distributor to the coil be connected? Mines on the - side but I suspect it should be on the + side since its now a negative earth system. (which means that people I paid for the conversion didn't do a proper job of it because I've not touched the thing). Every "professional" I've paid to work on this thing has made it worse. I've had 3 Humbers and even the utter basket case heap of the three caused me less stress, and there was fresh air ventilation through the floor on that one - yet it did Colchester to Brookmans Park 5 days a week for 6 months and all I did was put petrol and redex in it.
|
|
|
Post by andrewa on May 6, 2019 7:19:29 GMT
I sympathise and empathise with your difficulties in finding proper mechanics...have trodden the same road and it's painful, aggravating and can be expensive. It's the attention to detail that seems to be lacking and a general reluctance to follow the workshop manual (which I supply!) + an attitude thing - even from so called experts. Have now - finally - got two outfits both of excellent people one's a one man band who is great on all things mechanical/suspension/electrical and the other I use for longer term "improvements" that involve fabrication and a lot of time. I don't know what I'll do when the first one packs up (he's not planning to) - probably sell the car!!
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on May 6, 2019 13:48:26 GMT
|
|
|
Post by rosieuk on May 23, 2019 13:51:17 GMT
I sympathise and empathise with your difficulties in finding proper mechanics...have trodden the same road and it's painful, aggravating and can be expensive. It's the attention to detail that seems to be lacking and a general reluctance to follow the workshop manual (which I supply!) + an attitude thing - even from so called experts. Have now - finally - got two outfits both of excellent people one's a one man band who is great on all things mechanical/suspension/electrical and the other I use for longer term "improvements" that involve fabrication and a lot of time. I don't know what I'll do when the first one packs up (he's not planning to) - probably sell the car!! The people I'm using now have done a good job setting up & tuning the Wolseley, they used a emissions rig. I had to find and choose the needle myself (tw > kw) for the long plenum - and it's really making a difference. Last tank was 19mpg and this one in 1/4 of the gauge has gone from about the same to a projected 25mpg. It's made a major difference at higher speeds and I'd bet it could hit the ton and cruise at 85mph if I wanted. 65-70 is silky smooth while cruising. Another garage bunged in whatever sparkplugs they had hanging around - all of which were wrong and one was different. It does seem to run a little hotter at motorway speeds. These cars *really* need a higher 4th. It would transform the drive and economy. Incidentally is the rear seat squab supposed to be connected to something? It's just resting on the back panel. I'd like to cover the rear wheel wells and install front wheel spats, should help with aerodynamics (for a given value of the word).
|
|
|
Post by andrewa on May 23, 2019 17:14:15 GMT
Hi - glad its going in the right direction. The back of the back seat (if that makes sense) hooks over the back and there's a little flange at the bottom corner on each end which screw into the body so it's secure. The bit you sit on just pushes underneath the back part of the seat and down behind the front lip. Cheers Andrew
|
|
|
Post by rosieuk on May 24, 2019 4:05:38 GMT
Hi - glad its going in the right direction. The back of the back seat (if that makes sense) hooks over the back and there's a little flange at the bottom corner on each end which screw into the body so it's secure. The bit you sit on just pushes underneath the back part of the seat and down behind the front lip. Cheers Andrew Mine appears to have fitted carpet behind the seat?! The seat back isn't connected to anything which is OK when adults are sitting there (not ideal but 75kg of weight it ain't going nowhere - but a three year old, not so much. I'll have to have another look - it looks like another bodge up.
|
|
|
Post by andrewa on May 24, 2019 16:55:51 GMT
Perhaps the hidden fitted carpets where a VIP luxury extra or an attempt at sound deadening/insulation? Good luck either way.
|
|
|
Post by rosieuk on May 24, 2019 18:08:38 GMT
Perhaps the hidden fitted carpets where a VIP luxury extra or an attempt at sound deadening/insulation? Good luck either way. Last tank mpg was 24.5. That's with a half tank on the horribly adjusted old needle and 3/8s on the new setup & tune. It might even get 28 on the next tank, I wouldn't be surprised. Will look at the back seat tomorrow. Have been following a 4.5ft long lizard around on his lead in the back garden for most of the afternoon.
|
|
|
Post by rosieuk on May 24, 2019 18:17:46 GMT
A few calculations.
I think a next tank of 27.4-28 is reasonable - so that's between 5-8% over the BL figures (which in those days were correct). So for the price of two intake stubs, some nuts & bolts - a piece of tubing and a needle that isn't bad going. It'll now cruise silkily at 65 and would be fairly comfortable at 80+. It's definitely happier at speed than it's ever been since I had it. I can go up steep hills on almost no throttle.
|
|