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Post by alanh on Jan 12, 2019 10:14:14 GMT
Looking at a few pictures of Landcrab engines I notice that some have an engine damper on them. Mine has the brackets on top supports but no damper was this an option? We're does the bottom of damper mount? Also read that the s models have an addition support brace, any help were this mounts would be very helpful. Been taking the car out for a few runs and noticed the rear engine mount rubber delaminating. Got a couple of new engine mounts. Looking to stiffen up engine location. Any help would be great.
Doing the Col Dr Ruisg rally tonight as a shakedown before Monte Carlo. See if anything else rears its head.
Many thanks.
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Post by andrewa on Jan 12, 2019 15:02:54 GMT
Hi - I've got the standard ones on the right hand side of the engine as you look at the car but have two bolts through each in case worse happens.
On left hand side I've got the big block conversion thing that does away with the damper - and bottom left an adjustable engine steady from the gearbox.
On here somewhere there's a car which has an additional engine steady from the front top of the engine to the closing panel below the bonnet - by which I mean the thing that the bonnet latch is mounted to (apologies for lack of vocabulary!).
For what it's worth, I spent a while making sure the engine mountings were perfectly in line - by which I mean, using spacers to ensure they weren't being twisted just to get them to do up securely.
Good luck tonight
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Post by alanh on Jan 12, 2019 16:52:49 GMT
Thanks Andrew any chance you have any photos of dampers and steady.
Just off to do a non competitive rally tonight as a shake down.
Thanks Alan
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Post by andrewa on Jan 12, 2019 17:01:45 GMT
I'll do it tomorrow and email the pictures to you as I haven't got the hang of posting pictures on here since photobucket stopped doing free stuff!
Good luck tonight...weather looks like it's deteriorating in your neck of the woods throughout the night..but useful test!
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Post by alanh on Jan 12, 2019 23:38:00 GMT
Many thanks, just got back.
Only problem was side light main beam switch failure, just used spotlights, so all was ok.
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 13, 2019 0:59:37 GMT
All the crabs had the engine damper as standard, it bolts to the long bracket and bell housing (see Chris' photo in the next but one post). The S models had the additional brace as standard between the large rubber engine mounting and the long mounting bracket that runs from the bulkhead to the front of the car. This restricts the flexing of the rubber and was very effective at preventing it from shearing.
So the damper smooths out the vertical movements and the 1800S brace limits the horizontal twisting, both of which have the additional benefit of making the clutch take up smoother as well as protecting the engine mountings. I would suggest essential for rallying unless the modified mounting used by Andrew A and others is used.
As Andrew A mentioned it's important to ensure the engine alignment is correct to take stress off the engine mountings and drive shafts. The setting of the lower adjustable steady connected to the transmission housing is critical.
If anyone has a photo it would be much appreciated. Thanks for posting Chris!
David
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Post by andrewa on Jan 13, 2019 9:34:40 GMT
Gents - have emailed you both, some pictures - hope they are of some help.
Cheers
A
PS If you go onto my thread about page 5 there's some info about mountings that I'd forgotten about!
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 13, 2019 12:27:58 GMT
Uprated engine mount as fitted to the Red Dog.  IMG_6726 by Penguin 45, on Flickr Not sure if this is the "S" type mount. Tony Wood refers to it as a dumbell or Paul Cope mount. Bracket to the right is bolted to the end of the engine, the one to the left is mounted to the cross bar.  IMG_6727 by Penguin 45, on Flickr Bad pic of damper. Bolts to cross bar with a spacer and to the top of the bell housing below. Note gap to battery. People remove the damper to allow a larger battery to be fitted. Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 13, 2019 13:40:40 GMT
Yes, that looks like the 1800S type of upper tie rod although if I recall it bolted directly to the long mounting bracket with spacers. Not a good idea to remove the damper, although many are probably not doing too much as they age. Batteries are a lot smaller than back in 1964 so it should be possible to find one with a larger capacity that won't foul the damper? Anything to protect the large flat rubber engine mounting!!
David
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Post by foglaursen on Jan 14, 2019 9:48:12 GMT
As you say, not a good idea to remove the damper. It will protect the mounting by reducing the up and down movement of the engine (if the damper works as it should). A few years ago I had damper, which destroyed the mounting. It was as if it contained a one way valve, meaning that it could not be compressed, but worked fine in the opposite direction. This meant that the engine would constantly be pressed down.  |
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Post by snoopy11 on Jan 14, 2019 19:28:34 GMT
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 15, 2019 2:18:42 GMT
That's interesting, I wonder how you managed to diagnose the culprit? David As you say, not a good idea to remove the damper. It will protect the mounting by reducing the up and down movement of the engine (if the damper works as it should). A few years ago I had damper, which destroyed the mounting. It was as if it contained a one way valve, meaning that it could not be compressed, but worked fine in the opposite direction. This meant that the engine would constantly be pressed down. |
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Post by foglaursen on Jan 15, 2019 10:49:43 GMT
Diagnosing was quite simple, as I had to change the mounting. When reassembling I found it impossible to compress the damper. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 15, 2019 12:04:13 GMT
There's a write-up about the end mount HERE. Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 15, 2019 13:17:55 GMT
Looking back, did it present any symptoms other than damaging the mounting? David Diagnosing was quite simple, as I had to change the mounting. When reassembling I found it impossible to compress the damper. |
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