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Post by rosieuk on Oct 11, 2018 18:13:18 GMT
I have a problem with my Wolseley that the oil pressure doesn't get to more than 20—22psi on the gauge but what I couldn't understand is if the bottom end is knackered why is the top end acting almost brand new 22/24/34mpg. Turns out there may be a very good but sinister reason. There is an oil pressure bypass in the B series engine - held shut by a 3in spring normally which gives you a normal oil pressure around 45-65 running. Over time the spring can weaken and oil pressure will drop but more dangerous some aftermarket springs are too weak and fail almost as soon as they're installed. The symptom of a duff new unit or a tired old one?
I'm sure you can guess..
An engine that is known good but can't muster more than 20psi oil pressure running even just after rebuild. I've ordered a new spring & cup and will arrange as soon as possible to have the local garage fit it. I know there's probably already damage to my engine but *hopefully* this will give me better pressure and alleviate any more issues.
This spring *has* to be 3in or 76mm long - if it isn't it has to be replaced as soon as possible or your oil will go into the bypass and the pressure will drop like a stone. If a new one is not that length do not fit it and source a replacement. Ditto an old spring - if it's more than 5mm or short enough it can be scoped by a Mark 1 Eyeball then replace it.
The same spring fits A & B series engines at least and may fit others. They're available on eBay.
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 11, 2018 23:34:44 GMT
Interesting. Consider a few points.
1/ You have a Wolseley with the electric sender and Smiths guage. The sender is known to be one of the most inaccurate devices ever invented. My own 18/85 showed 25psi regardless of temperature or speed. Investigation showed that the variable resistor mechanism was jammed. A new unit was sourced. They are rare and hard to find, but the E-type Jag one is ostensibly the same thing. It isn't - it reads exactly half the generated pressure of a "B" series. My late good friend Mike supplied a working, used sender. It lasted about 18 months, before it too jammed. Eventually, I sourced a guage from a Six and converted to a capillary system. We are now down to one moving part and no electrics. The engine consistently shows over 50psi when running.
2/ Mike was also of the opinion that the "B" engine is one of the most forgiving engines ever built. Providing that there is some oil pressure, they'll keep running almost indefinitely; assuming that it's not being thrashed every time it's used. Curiously enough, I work regularly with a retired mechanic who shares the same opinion.
3/ My Austin has only a warning light. It goes out.... Some months back, Ron (the retired mechanic) was tinkering with my engine, due to an on-going cam timing problem. He pulled the switch and connected his professional pressure meter - 45-60psi delivered.
4/ When I was rebuilding the red car, I did replace the spring and plunger. There was wear on the face of the plunger, so possiby a good call. The replacement spring was wound the other way and was actually shorter, which I found slightly disturbing. It took a few phone calls to find a spring which I felt met specification. Anyway, it's easily accessed despite being down the back of the engine, but do the plunger at the same time. It makes sense.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 12, 2018 4:54:02 GMT
As Chris notes the oil pressure relief valve spring should be 3" free length, 2 5/32" at fitted length at a load of 15.5 to 16.5 lbs.
I would doubt that an oil pressure of 20 psi would have caused any damage to an engine unless it has been thrashed. I've still not located the TSB for the Austin Cambridge engine in relation to flickering oil warning lights that noted the B series really didn't need more than 15psi running to avoid damage under most circumstances. However, best to ensure the correct pressure is achieved.
An unofficial "fix" for springs back in the 60s that had weakened was to use a spacer washer, but not really the way to unless a proper spring cannot be sourced.
David
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Post by rosieuk on Oct 12, 2018 19:00:40 GMT
Mine is rattly at idle with 0 hot so I suspect what's reading on the gauge is correct. It's also sitting at 20 dead running but the top end isn't worn so I'm thinking it might well be bypassing. I've got the bits incl the pressed pin/cup, a spring a smidgen over 3" free and a copper washer I assume to act as a crush washer between the block and the screw fitting. Will get them fitted the start of next week. Could probably do brakes & Bypass myself if I had my ramps but of course they're being "looked after" in an "easy to reach" place by family.
In other news - there is a mitsubishi engine - the 4N13 - that just happens to be a 1798cc 4 diesel that with a low rate turbo gives 114hp and looks like it's ancillaries etc are set up identical to the landcrab (ie with injectors to front the alternator and belts are front left (from drivers seat) and crankshaft output is to the right (ditto) - what's the bet it'd give ~ 85-95hp sans turbo? Only problem is a sump adapter, driveline adapter & the oil pickup etc.. Oh and the money..
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