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Post by cptkennykidna on Oct 22, 2018 11:34:36 GMT
hope you got the bits you needed but if you have not use gumtree and ask for Austin 1800 parts, you should see an add with tail lights etc and i am in WA
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Post by cptkennykidna on Oct 22, 2018 11:22:35 GMT
their are lots of welders who could fix your bracket on gearbox using tig, the auto boxes from the Princess range had no lug for the steady bar and they where tiged on when used for the Austin 1800s.
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Post by cptkennykidna on Feb 21, 2018 15:53:12 GMT
recently a member asked about rear wheel bearings and where to get them, todays task was to find the sources, so here we go. i will start with telling you that as David said these bearings should be common because car makers tried to standardize. they are used often on industrial applications so availability is not a problem. please do not google them as some are the wrong bearings being offered with tatty packaging and are over priced anyway. [ another cup of tea please Julia ]. one bearing i looked at was for the radius arm with the front wheel bearing part number you would have been disappointed on receiving that.[ thank you Julia ]. item 1/. rear inner bearing is part no LM67048/10 = cone and cup or bearing and race they are both descriptions of a single complete assembly often called a set. this set is called set 6 because it has a broad application range, how broad ?, it is only listed as the rear inner on our 1800/2200 cars but comes up as the front inner on at least 26 other cars including Chevrolet-Chrysler-Dodge-Ford-Rambler-Mercedes-Volvo-Toyota-Fiat-Jaguar-Triumph-MG-Rover-Holden and many more, this does not include any industrial uses. Who makes them?. probably every major manufacturer in the world Timken manufacture in England-Poland-Brasil-Australia and that is a few of the Timken producers, NTN Bower in the U.S.A are the biggest bearing manufacturer in North America and you can include them, also Koyo-SKF and you can try them all and more. item 2/. rear outer bearing is part no L44649/10 = cone and cup, the /10= the cup on each set, this pair i have not got a set number for but i think there is one, let you know later. similar to before i only have it listed here as rear outer for 1800/2200 range but it comes up as the front inner on at least 10 makes of cars including Marina-Chrysler= Valiant-Datsun-Ford-Hillman-Holden-Toyota-Triumph-Vauxhall-Volkswagen also as Triumph rear inner and more. N.B.please note that references i am using only cover the years between 1960 to 1973 so there will have been many more applications after 1973 for all these bearings.[ more tea Julia ]. item 3/. front wheel bearing part no LM48548/AY is only listed in my reference as for the 1800/2200 cars but that is only because of the /AY which is the spacer, a part that is no longer available to my knowledge here in Australia. O.K.! take away the /AY and you are back with part no LM48548, add the cup =/10 and your part no is LM48548/10 called set 5. often sold as separate parts LM48548 = cone or bearing as previously mentioned and cup= race LM48510, so if you cannot get set 5 you will have to quote the two separate numbers. O.K. this bearing without the spacer is used for agricultural hubs amongst other things which include our cars widely used in trailer / machinery hubs. on pulling apart 1800/2200 hubs i have found all those bearing makes previously mentioned including NTN Bower U.S.A no reason to think that you cannot get this bearing, i pay $18.19 including 10% tax for the set=set 5.if you really cannot find them then contact me and i will do my best for you. item 4/.the no longer available spacer that is, here in Aus. you may still get the proper kit in the U.K. but i have never trusted the accuracy of the hub registers, they did not use CNC machines so it must have been very tedious for the machinist to get the registers within a couple of thou given the end float on the bearings is zero to .002 in. if you bruised the edge of the registers as you knocked the old bearings out that would make it even more difficult to get the setup accurate. the CBC bearing kits that used to be available in Australia had a spacer of 1.125 in that i always found to big, but shortened with care they where fine.i will try to post some pics when i finally get on flickr of a dummy CV joint i use to work my way back to a satisfactory spacer thickness. in Aus they introduced 8 spacers very late in the production of the Kimberley and Tasman which where hand written into the parts manual. i have some here so i know it is true, sadly they do not come up to the size i normally use. hang five on the flickr bit and maybe in the mean time i can source some tube for machining
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Post by cptkennykidna on Feb 21, 2018 0:47:56 GMT
Chris, i was looking at the photo, of Aaron, race car last night and there was a button on photo for flickr account, when pressed it led me to open a Yahoo account, is this the normal process.
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Post by cptkennykidna on Feb 11, 2018 12:26:25 GMT
a new rocker shaft i have just fitted part num 010114Z had no oil pressure and thinking that because the engine had been sitting for 20 years without a head on it the block gallery might be blocked, in Australia native bees - Hornets and other insects are known for nest making in any hole available e.g carburetors on your garden equipment etc and maybe this gallery was my problem so off with the recond head. two batteries hooked together and a good cranking gave me oil out of the block so i blew compressed air through the head and all seemed well, head back on with another head gasket rocker gear etc, No oil pressure ?, answer was that these new shafts have smaller oil holes than the original [ old holes are about 7/64 inch and new ones are .100 thou size 40 drill bit or just over 2.5mm. the Number 4 pedestal has a grub screw to stop the rocker shaft from rotating and also hold the shaft down against the No 4 pedestal oil feed hole. that grub screw locking hole in the rocker shaft is in the wrong spot, just enough to move the shaft to the right and block the oil feed from the pedestal into the shaft, i experimented with another new shaft and ended up having to oversize that oil feed hole below grub screw to 15/64 inch. that might seem a lot, but each time i went up a size i only gained half of the oversize, this solved the oil pressure problem but one other thing happened , the shaft moves to the right = front of engine and the spring and washer have no pressure, i had to put another washer on that end, the back washer and spring on the No 4 pedestal end becomes tight,it is a small issue that can be got over with thinner washers. all reproduction shafts should be checked or your new shaft may be cactus with your bushes.it has been mentioned that pedestal shim 12h3960 can be used to lift the center two pedestals and get rid of some rattle, the rocker shaft does not rotate in the pedestals so it is possible to drill and tap the other three pedestals as per No 4 and lock it all down, you might need to think on that. there are some performance mods with regards stiffening things up, out rigger pedestals AEH 762/3 = front and rear as a pair and spacer set instead of springs = AEH764/5 = 3 pieces and do not forget shims 12H3960. CHECK YOUR NEW SHAFT.
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Post by cptkennykidna on Jul 7, 2017 14:16:02 GMT
i have not seen anything about these bearings on the forum, not that it has not happened but today i had a new experience, as follows. when refurbishing radius arms i have never been able to buy the seal L44600L, i have always used the old seals with some sealant on the outer lip, works O.K.. the most recent bearings that i purchased had a discrepancy and the old seals would not fit, lost 3 trying to fit them ? what went wrong?. the new bearings where made in Poland, does that mean they are faulty, No!. they had one different dimension and that was the old seals would not fit on the new bearings. after showing this to bearing sales they said there was an L at the end of the number on the old bearing, i said this has never happened before, always got the right bearing. after explaining the importance of the seal the young man looked at his data and said he could provide a bearing with a seal on the bearing, part number L44600LA-902B6 this is a TIMKEN bearing made in the good old U.S.A., it does not come with the cup L44610 and i do not know why but i purchased the two components to see if they are O.K., i am not an engineer but some manufacturers have such high specs that they say do not use other components that are not matched so there is a little question mark over the L44600LA-902B6 versus L44610= cup being separate. i think i can be happy that the two components should match. they appear to be just what we need and please note that the American numbers on the bearing start with the greater part No of the seal L44600L. good night kennykidna.
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Post by cptkennykidna on Jul 4, 2017 11:45:37 GMT
good looking cars from pictures, the green car has some interesting mods, late model car with twin carbs possibly 1.5 inch HD4 from MG Magnette MK4 or HD6 1.75 from Jaguar 3.4 or 3.8 MK11 brass damper tops giving some clue and also float bowl lids. if you have any numbers I can probably tell what cars where issued with these carbs. they both look restorable and to think they are in Canada means they have had a lot of storage. I would like to think I could help even with the great distance, you can always ask. do not scrap either. all the best cptkennykidna.
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Post by cptkennykidna on Jul 4, 2017 10:37:42 GMT
washers available from MGB parts providers = the same part numbers for both types of washers.
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Post by cptkennykidna on Sept 30, 2016 8:15:48 GMT
there where a good number of two tone cars sold in Western Australia, as I spent from about 1985-1995 servicing 1800s and Kimberley and Tasmans. in the past Dave 1800 has posted my pics for me as I am still unable to use flicker etc, so I do not think the photo,s are likely to happen. on the subject of colour,i have wrecked an Amber, Jet red and a Black one, the only ones I have seen in those colours in West Aus. Sierra Beige, New Cedar Green etc, we had a lot of colours available but it seems that mostly White or one of the light blues where chosen. White is an obvious Colour for the Australian climate.
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Post by cptkennykidna on Sept 14, 2016 11:29:19 GMT
hi Chris welcome to a world wide site dedicated to the preservation of landcrab variants. the BorgWarner 35 type transmission was the biggest thing to happen in the late 60s, I think in Australia the production figures for autos in 1968 where higher than manuals, it was a big plus for the female population and came in many car types e.g. Ford, Volvo and so on. parts are still available, and transmissions can be beefed up with thinner steels in the clutch packs bringing in more friction surface, good for utilities and cars used for towing caravans etc. the 3.8 diff gives a very nice highway speed and having driven many miles in both manual and auto I actually prefer the auto. I have an auto here that may come up for sale 1968 un molested number plate UAD 017 although it is in Western Australia. wish you all the best. cptkennykidna.
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Post by cptkennykidna on Jul 25, 2016 13:14:10 GMT
two tone was definitely an option in 1969 mist grey also called mist green with willow green is very nice, and so are the two blues, there where others, country cream and willow green.i have 3 different ones here at the moment.
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Post by cptkennykidna on Jul 25, 2016 12:56:41 GMT
It was never a factory option, Paddy. I agree though, duo-tone can look lovely. Have a look at the Documents section in Technical for the parts listings - section one gives all the colour options. Chris.
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Post by cptkennykidna on Jul 25, 2016 12:52:15 GMT
Thanks Chris, Good to know I'm heading the right way. Paddy Subaru village green is pretty close to amw prefixed engines U.K.imports = about 1965, or Wolseley imports, do not know about Morris. the light metallic green is as far as I know a BMC Australia concoction used on a lot of BMC stuff up until 1968, the next one for Aus cars is a dark metallic silver ( not black as I believe was the princess B series wedge motor ) the metallic when aged looks black but take that little panel from the corner of your boot, the one where your tail lights are and you have your colour, it comes up as a Jaguar colour
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Post by cptkennykidna on Jul 25, 2016 12:22:54 GMT
talk to the Austin motor vehicle club in your state, phone no and address in rear of unique cars.
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Post by cptkennykidna on Jun 26, 2015 12:25:39 GMT
your thrust bearing will soon be obsolete, what do we do?. I have looked at a number of alternatives, about 5 so far. I was looking for something that was reasonably easy to install and long lasting. I wanted something that retained the thrust face on the pressure plate diaphragm giving the best fulcrum action, that is, the lightest action on a standard system. I think I have found the answer, and have a part number for this ball race self centring bearing. I have this set up operating now in a 1800 utility that has just had the power unit rebuilt, it is behaving very well so far, but I need to clock a lot more miles to confirm reliability. love to show the photo,s but do not know how.
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