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Post by hydrolastic on Feb 13, 2013 3:23:49 GMT
Well David, i am pretty familiar with the unique hydrolastic system. Cut a smaller 1100 unit open on the lathe a while back. realized that the cylinder is comprised of two systems really. The upper part is just rubber in sorta a doughnut shape. this is the spring. The lower part is a bladder that move codependantly with the lower part of the rubber spring and also a bit on its own as pumps fluid in and out of the displacer. because there is a delay so to speak it acts as a shock damper. i plan on trying to put brass washers in the fluid fittings with holes in it to slow it even further. i will start with larger holes and move to smaller ones till i get a noticeable effect. Also i plan on doing something i did on the hydro Hornet where i put adjustable shocks on the front set on the lowest setting. noticableably less nose dive on initial braking but virtually unnoticeable the rest of the time. So this guy will get a set of mini shocks on it. they are coilovers so once i get it on its wheels i will see if the engine and trans are heavier or lighter than the b series since i don't have an engine for it there is no way of knowing if it is lighter but i have to say the KLDE V6 engine/trans seems pretty heavy on the lift. if it is heavier i can put some springs on it to level it out. the mini handles like its on rails so the 1800 will get ackerman as far as anti ackerman on f1 cars i don't think i will approach the levels to worry about it. would rather have it than not. Since there is bigger brakes on the front because the probe can mount them i expect that braking will be a bit later than most people have pushed the 1800 to. i want it to turn in as fast as possible. But also the base probe used drum brakes on the rear so it will get the full probe system on it with only the pedal assembly and the rear drums from the 1800 on it. got to get to work i will check in in a few weeks. til then. Aaron
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Post by hydrolastic on Feb 12, 2013 3:28:54 GMT
Well progress is going slow. I had to buy all new mounts cause the engine donor car mounts were broken but i figured out that if i flipped the rear mount over and used the smaller forward mount in the rear i can fit it in under the hydrolastic displacer's just under the accelerator pedal. With the new mounts i plan on building the structure to hold the engine on both sides then the front and rear mounts. I have been getting the front end ready to fit to the body and am in the process of welding the hood to the fenders. I have a contact with someone i can get a manual trans pedal assembly and this will then get the probe brakes adapted to it. there is an upgrade to put 2007 Mazda 6 front brakes for a 11.8" rotor that is vented and a full inch thick i am hoping that this upgrade will handle 24 hours of racing. I pulled the dash out of the car and the heater i plan on putting it back minus the heater just cause i like the thought that the interior still look like the luxury cruiser it is. speaking of luxury cruiser I was looking at the front suspension and the caster/camber settings are a stately +1 caster and +1 camber i plan on running +5 caster and -2.5 camber to get that i need to build a lower arm mount that is adjustable and some new front radius arm mounts. I am wary of using the radius rods from the 1800 and may make a set of adjustable ones or strenghten these. The final thing will be to add some ackerman to the steering, i had never seen a 0 ackerman car before but the mini has a ton of it so i got to put some into this one. I am sure there will be more stuff done to the front suspension as i got to figure out how to handle the front end dive these cars are notorious for. Imagine standing on the brakes at 110 mph not something i am looking forward to really. unless i can get a way to control it. Just working on getting the front floor pans replaced so the roll cage can start to go into it. That's it for now.
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Post by hydrolastic on Jan 20, 2013 14:20:43 GMT
Hello all, Set the V6 engine sorta in just to see where i need to make clearance. The rear exhaust manifold is going to be the main problem. But i realized that the rack has an amazing amount of turns, 4 it seems. This would make for a lot of steering on the track. The Australian rack has less or more turns ? Aaron
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Post by hydrolastic on Jan 17, 2013 23:02:20 GMT
Hello Dave, yes Julians address would be good, finally figured out the wheel pattern 5x5 and the offset is guessed at +45 so i have decided to see if i can use the ford 5x 4.5 pattern and a set of accord 15" wheels to be able to get brake clearance and a wider tire. is there a keystroke by keystroke description of how to post pictures? thanks Aaron
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Post by hydrolastic on Jan 16, 2013 2:44:42 GMT
Thank's again, looking at the wheels i need wider rims. does anyone know what the bolt circle pattern and offset is for a mk2 1800 is? i believe it is 4.5 but not sure.
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Post by hydrolastic on Jan 15, 2013 4:35:00 GMT
thanks guys, I have seen the article on the auto speed site. I am at almost the same stage. but the fit and finish will be considerably less quality on my car. Some differences will be flip front end for easy engine changes, cut wheel wells, race fuel cell and the rest of the race parts. I did like the insight as to what to do about the displacer frame tube housing being right above the driveshafts. in my case the rear exhaust manifold is in the way and exits right at the tube. Have yet to test fit the engine but turning the manifold over should get it out of the way but the outlet will be facing up so something will have to be done to get it out to the rear of the car. The rest seems pretty straightforward hydraulic clutch slave, cable throttle, the hard part for me will be the electrical as i have never been good but it is about time i learned. will keep you posted. Aaron
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Post by hydrolastic on Jan 13, 2013 20:32:22 GMT
Hello people, New to the board. Not new to British cars as i have a 66 Wolseley Hornet, and a MG 1100 both restored. Both cars are repaired and free from rust also the repairs were done to a standard where on a lift or even disassembled you could not tell metalwork had been done. The hornet 998 engine was replaced with an 1100 engine and a four syncro gearbox. while the 1100 has a cooper s engine. I also race a 67 mini cooper S in the vintage class on the west coast of the US. Now onto the landcrab or the austin 1800 it is a 70 model year Canadian car. I received it six years ago from a guy who had disassembled it then went on a drug binge. I got the car missing nearly all of the drive train and poorly stored so it had some rust in the sills and floor pan. Not really wanting to go to the full restoration on this car I have decided to make it into a race car in the lemons series. This means i just have to repair the floor enough to get a roll cage in it. And figure out how to stuff another engine into it. The engine i have chosen is the Mazda klde v6 engine. Mine came from a ford probe. but the gearbox is shot. So i have to get another engine this one will just be a mock up for all of the mounts. It is also going to be a tight fit as the engine is 26" long and it is going into a space just 29" I realize that most people are just into restoring cars back to stock but this one is just not worthy of that and besides the build has already been started. but if you like seeing race car builds this should be fun. I will start posting photo's as soon as i figure out how to do that on this board. see you then. Aaron
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