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Post by hydrolastic on Sept 9, 2017 19:42:06 GMT
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Post by hydrolastic on Sept 6, 2017 23:29:20 GMT
Hello Fans, Again we Won!!! The judges even gave us a 35 lap penalty because we won in 2015. Our rocket engineer (yes he really is) speced the diameter and length of our rear antisway bar combined with the rear shocks and a lowered fuel tank. The Austin 1800 known as Maxine was a superstar! It was stable and powerful and is getting to be a real racecar. Our times dropped 5 seconds per lap since the last race in 2015. I was taking corners harder than ever before and She just dug in and seemed to like it. Here she is. Thanks everyone i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p694/Hydrolastic/Lemons20Landcrab202017_zps7oxpumk8.jpg
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Post by hydrolastic on Aug 13, 2017 15:39:17 GMT
Hello, Cleaning up a rear displacer i saw a yellow dot on the side of it. just wondering if in the process of making the displacers there was a difference between the green (early 1100) and blue (late 1100) displacers? I know the cone is shorter on the green dot(vs blue) displacers but other than the cone was there an internal difference? Aaron
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Post by hydrolastic on Aug 12, 2017 1:45:34 GMT
Hello Fans! well maybe not fans but you might like to see landcrabs going over a hundred.... Maxine is in the shop for another race after missing last year. This years improvements are a rear sway bar, lowered fuel tank and adjustable rear shocks. All in process now. will post pictures next time. Those rear swingarms are heavy! Only busted one bolt getting the hydro covers off. Will drill it out. On the list are new bump stops. If our rocket engineer team member did his calculations right we should be lifting the inside rear wheel in the corners. Hope to get a photo of that! Aaron
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Post by hydrolastic on Apr 26, 2017 6:32:41 GMT
Hello guys, Got the master and slave back from Apple Hydraulics applehydraulics.com They were sleeved and rebuilt put them in over the weekend. It started right up and the clutch is smooth and easy. Next item is to replace the left side motor mount as the engine is sagging so much i can't get the air filter on. But the real problem now is the shift cable leak. Car sat for a month and a good half qt of oil leaked out.
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Post by hydrolastic on Apr 20, 2017 0:17:26 GMT
This is the latest one. 115 hp at 6500rpm out of 1360cc. 80 hp at 4000. 100 hp at 5000. Minispares 5 speed. Megasquirt FI. Counterweighted crank. This one also gets a idle air control valve. Will idle like a kitten. Stay cool and will out accelerate all but the most extreme race engines.
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Post by hydrolastic on Apr 16, 2017 3:08:36 GMT
VVt is entirely possible but not in the way you think. I would like to try putting a fourvalve twincam head on a b series engine. I have done a couple of the BMW twincam A series and the results are so amazing its tempting to give it a go. I looked at a 90 mm Bore spacing B18 head but its a CCW engine so a toyota or nissan 90 to 92 mm BC head would be cool. I have heard that somebody already has done one but i cant find anything on it. Aaron
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Post by hydrolastic on Jan 29, 2017 21:13:39 GMT
Thank you Guys, I have finally gotten to Gromits Clutch and the slave cylinder seems to be the issue. The bore of the slave seems to be 1" which i don't think is right. The master is 5/8 I intend to replace both if i can find a source.
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Post by hydrolastic on Dec 21, 2016 4:12:07 GMT
Hello guys, One of the race team guys came over we were going to get a bite and decided to take Gromit. put it in neutral and he started right up. Put the clutch in and nothing! The pedal went straight to the floor. No problem i would take a minute and bleed it. Greg pumped it and i did the bleed nipple. Minimal movement on the arm. It seems the master is kaput. Local shop Autosport is looking for a replacement. Just wondering if the master is a 1800 specific item or does it cross reference to a TR6 or another car. Just for info it could be the slave cylinder but i am going to replace them both. Aaron
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Post by hydrolastic on Dec 10, 2016 16:46:58 GMT
Thanks David, I found a list of cars that states the 70 on mk2's were 12H but lists a October 68 as a 12C. mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/be100.htm So now not sure where the dashes and spaces go but drawing it out it looks like, 18C-125-H space 1013###
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Post by hydrolastic on Dec 10, 2016 3:09:28 GMT
Hello Guys, The engine tag is missing on Gromits engine. I was told the engine is the original and on its rebuild it came back from the machine shop without it. The heritage certificate came today BUT the engine number is only four digits Like 3### and thats it. So i need to get a full number so i could order a new one. I know from the minis and 1100's that there was a low compression L and a H for high compression and i thought a transverse designation. I do know the car was made on the 8th of Oct 1968 and went to Canada. Any help getting a number figured out would be appreciated Aaron
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Post by hydrolastic on Nov 12, 2016 17:10:28 GMT
Hello, My wife and i usually give each other Christmas gifts based on what we want most. I was thinking of getting Gromits seats redone. However i don't see any seat covers out there on the internet. What do you do for torn seats in England? Is there a secret source out there? Second Choice would be carpets, Same question. Aaron
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Post by hydrolastic on Oct 26, 2016 1:35:39 GMT
Hello guys, Thanks for the encouragement and posts. So i now have Gromit working well and it starts first click even when cold. Pretty happy with the car. Now i have to get air filters on it. For this setup i am thinking aftermarket filters but in looking i am worried that the brake booster will interfere with the filters. Gromit is lefthand drive. I also put in a set of .312 spacers to get the heat sheild to clear the maniflow header. It looks like it is pretty tight space to get the air cleaner on before the firewall. is there a recommendation from you on a good set?
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Post by hydrolastic on Oct 23, 2016 15:13:16 GMT
Hello, Silversleeves race team member Scott spotted this car while camping on Vancouver island Canada this summer. The odds of this happening are so remote He had to send it with himself in the photo. Attachments:
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Post by hydrolastic on Oct 23, 2016 14:28:53 GMT
Hello Guys, So i have made some progress on the 1800, With a couple of sets of mgb Hs4's and some fabrication i was able to get the carbs to fit with the mgb heat shield and a set of .312 spacers to clear the header. Then the starter went out! It was by stroke of a miracle I got my hands on a used marina starter. Yesterday it arrived and it was Immediately put in and the car started on its first click. Some tuning and it was running like a champ. Took my wife for a ride in the neighborhood. Now that i can move it around i am looking forward to driving it But now i have to get it fully imported with paperwork. I went through the receipts and was surprised at the amount of work that has gone into this car. it has had a full engine rebuild with all new pistons, rings, bearings. reground crank to .010/.010 also the PO has a bunch of homemade tools and the receipts show syncros and a bunch of gearbox parts in the rebuild. I was happy to see a new clutch release bearing on there also. While the manifold was off i looked into the ports and the head has been ported similar to a mini in road spec. The receipts also show seats and guides to the head and a piper 270 camshaft. No wonder this car is so strong. I still want to continue with getting the inboard float 1800 S carbs together so i plan on getting the initial set of Hs6 carbs to start the process. The list of misc parts for this car is getting longer and i will be looking for more Items soon. Aaron
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