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OKR
Aug 15, 2022 9:13:07 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Aug 15, 2022 9:13:07 GMT
Where would you fit the catch can? Nick Maybe worth fitting a cheap catch can to help minimise contaminants? David
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OKR
Aug 10, 2022 5:56:54 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Aug 10, 2022 5:56:54 GMT
Early days yet but I think as you say David I might be better to monitor the SU piston height rather than sided AFR. Also this will help with where to adjust the needle.
There are a couple of dynos in Bundy Andrew but I don't think they have the SU knowledge required.
I may give it a run at some point on a dyno but more likely to do that with the second efi engine I plan to build for the OZ car.
Nick
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OKR
Aug 9, 2022 20:41:31 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Aug 9, 2022 20:41:31 GMT
Thanks David.It is a bit of an experiment really.
I have ordered a aeroflow wideband gauge really to try to get a better idea of what is going on with the carbs. It comes with a couple of weld on ports. I want to put the ports in while I have the engine out.
I am trying to decide if I should deliberately separate the reading by putting ports in that are bias to one carb (two ports either side and bung after testing) or to go for a combined reading (leave in place). I suppose my options are front branch and rear branch (one in each) or after the final Y somewhere. I will leave it in if it is after the final y. I don't want to make holes everywhere just to pick a good option.
I am leaning towards a combined reading a short distance after the final junction.
Dyno testing is not an option so the slow approach with possible needle adjustment is what I am looking for. I am not after a high level of tune, just to dial it in a little better.
As for the longevity of the sensor that will be interesting to find out.
Nick
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OKR
Aug 9, 2022 10:37:13 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Aug 9, 2022 10:37:13 GMT
David if you were going to put a wide band O2 into an 'S' exhaust manifold where would you put it?
Nick
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Post by 1800heap on Aug 4, 2022 21:54:51 GMT
I just had a quick play with some speedos I have. I have 4 of them and using a regulated 5 volt power supply connected direct to the gauge (no other connections on the gauge), 2 read dead center of normal, one is on the cold side of normal the other is nearly up to the hot line. If you are confident the car is not running hot then your gauge is as likely the culprit as the sender. If the regulator is bad the fuel gauge will be off too.
It is possible to recalibrate the gauge but it is not easy.
Nick
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OKR
Aug 4, 2022 21:16:55 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Aug 4, 2022 21:16:55 GMT
One of the marvels of British engineering I suppose. Obviously it worked. There is a place for a drain plug which is interesting. Anyway it is more or less back together. Nick One of life's mysteries! I do know that despite the limited flow to the gearbox that when the primary shaft nut becomes looses and grinds its way into the cover the fine aluminium filings find their way successfully into every oil way in the engine from the rocker shaft down. There may well have been a good reason for the way it is designed but I cannot work out why. David
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OKR
Aug 4, 2022 10:36:05 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Aug 4, 2022 10:36:05 GMT
Here is a couple of pictures of what I mean. You would only need a hole in the adapter plate to join the two sections. Then draining and filling the engine oil would do both sections, so why block it up keeping old oil in there? Nick
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OKR
Aug 4, 2022 1:38:54 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Aug 4, 2022 1:38:54 GMT
There is a small hole where the 1st motion shaft goes into the gearbox. Around where the oil level is so not much movement. What I don't get is separating it like that. The adapter plate would only need a hole in it and the area would be connected to the gearbox!
Nick
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OKR
Aug 3, 2022 10:33:44 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Aug 3, 2022 10:33:44 GMT
Does anybody know or has anyone considered why the transfer gears have a separate section that does not connect to the gearbox?
Why do that and still use engine oil?
Also there would be a small amount of mixing as it is not totally sealed. To top off what seems like a disadvantage, make it so that oil can not be drained at an oil change!
The only thing I can think of is oil level. Can that outweigh leaving cruddy oil in for the life of the clutch?
I put an oil drain in anyway as I don't like it. Nick
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OKR
Jul 24, 2022 7:32:24 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Jul 24, 2022 7:32:24 GMT
Hope so!
I think I will swap from a 7/8" slave cylinder to a 1". Reduce the throw a bit plus the peddle force.
Nick
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OKR
Jul 23, 2022 23:00:50 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Jul 23, 2022 23:00:50 GMT
Good news. With the addition of packing washers between the flywheel and pressure plate to compensate for the thicker clutch plate lining, I have a decent clearance and usable range of travel. It remains to be seen if I will have to adjust the clutch pedal throw as per the bulletin.
I do have a small squeek when I turn the engine over. This goes if I put slight pressure on the clutch release lever. Also if I hold the lever back so the carbon does not touch the pressure plate. I am going to put my little camera in for a look.
Otherwise making positive progress.
Nick
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OKR
Jul 23, 2022 5:52:30 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Jul 23, 2022 5:52:30 GMT
Thanks David
I put the housing on and the clutch will release ok but if pressed too far the middle of the pressure plate hits the clutch plate. Same as the problems in your bulletin.
I think I may be able to get around it with a couple of small modes as I would like to keep the stronger plate.
Nick
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OKR
Jul 23, 2022 4:13:04 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Jul 23, 2022 4:13:04 GMT
Not so good news David I have had to edit my previous post as there may be an issue with getting enough travel on the release bearing. The plate fits fine but is somewhat thicker. This is going to effect the clutch pedal travel by the look of it. I have to put the bell housing back on temp to see if there is now sufficient travel to get the clutch to release. I will update when I know more. Nick That's great, available and quite a bit cheaper too! We've not heard about Chris' modified clutch release bearing and adjuster recently so hopefully no news is good news. David
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OKR
Jul 22, 2022 5:24:09 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Jul 22, 2022 5:24:09 GMT
Edited 23/7/22
Sorry since posting on the 15th that the mitsubishi clutch plate is a straight swap I have noticed a potential problem with it which I have to investigate. Nick
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OKR
Jul 15, 2022 7:38:26 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Jul 15, 2022 7:38:26 GMT
Yes I kept getting Triumph come up in my searches but could not track down a definite part number. Also they were all kits so a waste. If it fits it just shows manufacturers don't like to reinvent the wheel! Or clutch plate Hi Nick That's great news I hope it works out. At the back of my mind I do recall reference to using a 8.5" clutch plate way back as a non standard mod. I think it may have been from a Triumph TR4/5/6? David
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