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Post by kelsham on May 28, 2013 14:34:34 GMT
The grey areas are Jenolite, I am still struggling wit getting multiple pics across. Kels
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Post by kelsham on May 28, 2013 14:35:26 GMT
Lets see if these work, I have had further problems, I failed to let the Bonda primer dry properly. The stonechip then reacted and bubbled. After much faffing about I have just sprayed a top coat on for the MOT tommorrow.
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Post by kelsham on May 28, 2013 14:39:38 GMT
another try rear of sill, once aga in on the overlap.
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Post by kelsham on May 28, 2013 14:42:30 GMT
After patch let in filling and paintin g to do.
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Post by dave1800 on May 29, 2013 3:29:51 GMT
Hi Kels Looks good, I hope it gets through the MOT today regards David After patch let in filling and paintin g to do.
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Post by kelsham on May 29, 2013 15:39:11 GMT
Thanks for the good wishes they worked.
Passed the test Today. The garage failed to notice any fault with the wheel bearing. On the way home the noise rose and fell as I speeded up. It does change tone when cornering. New wheel bearing kits ordered, will soon be quiet again I hope.
As to the increased rusting where wax has missed a panel, I believe it is accepted that small areas open to corrosion on a panel always act in a sacrificial manner.
The diesel approach is interesting, bet it smells awful?
I have some compressor oil that is very thin I am thinking of using it before Waxoyl. Should penetrate the seams.
Other than the bearing noise she was a delight to drive.
Kels.
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Post by Penguin45 on May 29, 2013 23:52:12 GMT
Well done on the MoT pass. Strange corrosion on your sills - you would normally expect the bottom section to rot out, rather than odd patches half way up. Perhaps they were areas that never caught the spray first time round? The use of diesel to dilute the Waxoyl didn't really create any odour at all. I did some further bits on that van last weekend (1 week later) and there was no pong at all. I should state for the record that it has been nice and warm all week - certainly long enough for England to thrash beat New Zealand at the cricket at Headingley - so presumably it's evaporated off pretty sharpish. My own choice would have been the Dinitrol products which you can use straight from the tin. This is the consequence of overdoing the Waxoyl into SAAB 99 door bottoms on a very hot summers day a few years back. I suppose it did prove that the drain holes were clear! Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on May 30, 2013 0:31:15 GMT
Well done Kels! As Chris says the location of the rust is a bit odd - it may be as you suggest sacrificial where the Waxoyl missed out. There are some cheap cameras less than 1cm diameter on the market now that would allow internal box sections to be examined. It always seemed to me that the exhaust system acted as the sacrificial anode the way they used to rust! Regards David Thanks for the good wishes they worked. Passed the test Today. The garage failed to notice any fault with the wheel bearing. On the way home the noise rose and fell as I speeded up. It does change tone when cornering. New wheel bearing kits ordered, will soon be quiet again I hope. As to the increased rusting where wax has missed a panel, I believe it is accepted that small areas open to corrosion on a panel always act in a sacrificial manner. The diesel approach is interesting, bet it smells awful? I have some compressor oil that is very thin I am thinking of using it before Waxoyl. Should penetrate the seams. Other than the bearing noise she was a delight to drive. Kels.
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Post by kelsham on May 30, 2013 8:15:54 GMT
Yes it is strange half way up the sills, I am attaching another pic you can see it was just in front of a bracing bracket. There is a small bend where water can settle. Dinitrol came out badly in the test I mentioned earlier. It penetrated the seams well but dried out quicker than Waxoyl. Of course if you topped up every two years it wouldnt matter.
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