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Post by kelsham on May 23, 2013 16:35:38 GMT
I received notification the tax was due to expire.
This means I need a new MOT certificate. I rang up the local garage and booked it in for next week.
Lately I have been hearing a rubbing sound from the car which is very elusive. It seems to disappear at higher speeds and makes a rhythmic whoosh whoosh at lower speed. I thought it might be a back brake rubbing. I have just replaced the front calipers.
It did seem that the offside rear was touching as I could hear it when the wheel was spun with the car jacked off the ground.
I removed the shoes and fitted new spring plates to the back of the wheel cylinder after greasing the backplate.
While laying on the ground, I looked along the bottom of the sill and noticed the paint was scabbing off.
I had covered the sill in Waxoyl a couple of years back. and it was bubbling under it.
I took the car for a road test. The noise is still there?
I decided to take a closer look at the sill by way of diversion.
Maybe I ought to cancel the MOT? I decided no, without a deadline the job would definitely linger on.
I started with a polycarbide wheel in an electric drill.
I soon moved up to a flapwheel and angle grinder. Most of the rust is surface only and cleaned off the surface. I also found a wire twist brush useful in the grinder.
The waxoyl deposited itself every where, a substantial amount travelled down the side of my face and into my ear.
The wife pointed this fact out to me loudly when I went indoors for a break.
Shouting helps when your ear is thoroughly waxoyled.
Her screams reached a new high as I began to reach for a clean towel.
I have cleaned off one side of the car so far and started on the other sill, I decided the treat should be spread over two days. I will finish cleaning off the paint and Waxoyl tomorrow
Sadly I discovered a few holes in the sills, they will need patches let in. Thinking back it is at least ten years since I checked the underside thoroughly.
I took an hour, and travelled to Town to buy a tin of stone chip and an application gun. Picked up some Jenolite and will use the large tin of Bonda primer to coat the job once the welding is done.
Must take some pictures.
Regards Kels.
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Post by Penguin45 on May 23, 2013 20:13:11 GMT
Good reminder - Ady and I spent Sunday waxoyling Alan's van:  Gallons of the stuff applied......... Great boys messy fun. Sorry - off topic. Good luck with the sills - make sure you get the drain slots open when you finish. Pics would be nice! Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on May 23, 2013 23:53:29 GMT
Hi Kels The sound you describe could a rear wheel bearing. I had one on my MK1 car make such a sound at low speed but disappear as it went faster, most unlike any bearing sound I had heard before. No play obvious. I can't remember if you have roller bearings or slipflex in your rear suspension arms, if the latter check the tyre isn't rubbing against the inner wing, take the wheel off and look for any shiny metal. Are you doing the welding yourself, if so remember if you have lots of Waxoyl inside it can catch fire. If someone else is doing it remind them! Regards David I received notification the tax was due to expire. Lately I have been hearing a rubbing sound from the car which is very elusive. It seems to disappear at higher speeds and makes a rhythmic whoosh whoosh at lower speed. It did seem that the offside rear was touching as I could hear it when the wheel was spun with the car jacked off the ground. I took an hour, and travelled to Town to buy a tin of stone chip and an application gun. Picked up some Jenolite and will use the large tin of Bonda primer to coat the job once the welding is done. Must take some pictures. Regards Kels. |
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Post by kelsham on May 24, 2013 14:00:55 GMT
The other side cleaned off to bare metal today. two more holes. Fortunately the sills are generally sound. A few small patches let in should be a good repair.
I had been considering the rear wheel bearings as a possible source for the noise. I have never heard a wheel bearing make a noise like it. This put me off.
I will get the MOT then deal with it. did the bearings you had problems with show wear?
I had already checked the swinging arm bearings. I think mine are the early type not Slipflex.
Some details on my Mk1 are later, I have the later driveshafts. I hope they aren't Slipflex as I parted with my spares to Tony Wood some time ago.
Kels.
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Post by Penguin45 on May 24, 2013 17:16:30 GMT
Excess movement on the wheel bearings could allow the wheel and drum to move out of parallel with the brake shoes. They are taper bearings, so a tiny amount of play is necessary, but anything else needs looking at.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on May 25, 2013 5:56:27 GMT
Hi Kels The rear wheel bearings that made the whoosh sound had no play at all. In fact I wondered if they had possibly been overtightened a little. On dismantling they showed some sign of polishing but no other signs of damage. Replacing the bearings did remove the noise. If you can record it, send me a PM for my email address and then you send the sound file to me to see if it is the same thing. Regards David The other side cleaned off to bare metal today. two more holes. Fortunately the sills are generally sound. A few small patches let in should be a good repair. I had been considering the rear wheel bearings as a possible source for the noise. I have never heard a wheel bearing make a noise like it. This put me off. I will get the MOT then deal with it. did the bearings you had problems with show wear? I had already checked the swinging arm bearings. I think mine are the early type not Slipflex. Some details on my Mk1 are later, I have the later driveshafts. I hope they aren't Slipflex as I parted with my spares to Tony Wood some time ago. Kels. |
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Post by kelsham on May 25, 2013 14:15:32 GMT
Pushed on today welded the offside sill, one large piece let into the back of the sill, my skills are slowly improving. I am happy with the job overall. the small hole in the front was more difficult due to its position near the jacking point. Not so pleased with it's appearance. However it is sound.
As for the noise. I noticed that the rear brake is still touching the drum each revolution. In spite of me cleaning the cylinder and greasing it, plus new locking plates. I am wondering if the pull off spring is weak?
Of course it could be the bearings, I have booked the MOT for Weds so will hope it passes and change them if all else fails.
Kels.
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Post by Penguin45 on May 25, 2013 17:13:01 GMT
Well done. Fill them up with preservative again. Looking forward to the pictures............  Chris. |
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Post by kelsham on May 26, 2013 8:20:57 GMT
I ought to be ashamed of myself. I have never properly Waxoyled the car.
Classics monthly recently carried out a three year test of wax products.
They confirmed my suspicions that the seams are the main problem with using it.
Most of the waxes hardened after two to three years and began to crack, some failed to penetrate the seams.
I think I will spray a thinned first coat and then a full coat when i do the job. Then topping up coats every two years probably thined down to wet the old wax.
Must get back to the welding today, most of the rust I have discovered is where overlaps occur.
Kels.
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Post by Penguin45 on May 26, 2013 8:51:15 GMT
The job we did for Alan on the van above was done with Waxoyl, but Ady heavily diluted it with diesel to make it flow better. I haven't seen the Classics Monthly article, but I do recall that Practical Classics did some tests a couple of years ago and Waxoyl came out very badly. I did my own car with Dinitrol 3125, which seems to be holding up OK. DINITROL PRODUCTS. As you've suggested, I really ought to revisit this! Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on May 26, 2013 12:55:46 GMT
Hi Kels I don't know if this is a good idea but it seemed to work for me. I bought a gallon tin of WD40 from Halfords if I recall correctly (it wasn't very expensive) and then first sprayed this into all of the seams. This was then followed by a Waxoyl and WD40 mix and the the full strength Waxoyl. As you say, topping up every two or three years will ovecome cracks where it hardens. One strange thing I did notice was that on my Mk111 car one door skin perforated a couple of inches near the handle, not electrolytic corrosion but a patch where the Waxoyl had been missed. It was almost as though the rust was determined to take hold somewhere. On the whooshing noise from the rear wheel area maybe your drum is no longer perfectly round. If it is the brake shoe rubbing you should be able to a polished area on the shoe when you take the drum off. Regards David I ought to be ashamed of myself. I have never properly Waxoyled the car. Classics monthly recently carried out a three year test of wax products. They confirmed my suspicions that the seams are the main problem with using it. Most of the waxes hardened after two to three years and began to crack, some failed to penetrate the seams. I think I will spray a thinned first coat and then a full coat when i do the job. Then topping up coats every two years probably thined down to wet the old wax. Must get back to the welding today, most of the rust I have discovered is where overlaps occur. Kels. |
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Post by kelsham on May 26, 2013 19:36:54 GMT
Another hard day welding, I finished about five oclock. The welding is variable, three repairs are good, three not up to the standard I was aiming for. Due to the impending MOT being booked I had to press on.
I think I will spray oil into the sills after the MOT and then Waxoyl.
Interesting suggestion regarding oval brake drums. It hadn't occurred to me.
Most of the rust has got a hold where panels overlap causing a rust trap. I was surprised how I kept discovering it's extent as I wielded the knotted wire brush in the angle grinder.
Tommorow I seam seal and apply Bonda primer over the Jenolited metal. I have taken pictures but am having difficulty in getting them off Photobucket.
Kels
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Post by Penguin45 on May 26, 2013 19:56:04 GMT
Any progress is good progress.......
New Photobucket - click on the picture you want to upload. Wait for it to go full sized. Click on the box marked "IMG" to the right. It should go yellow and say "copied". Pop in here, right click then paste.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on May 27, 2013 13:21:09 GMT
I think it was revealed many years ago possibly back in the 70s in a comparison test that Waxoyl had its limitations. But at the time with a young family I just could not afford the Dinitrol treatment which was regarded as much superior especially in box sections. Of course in those days it was more about getting through the next MOT and not preserving a classic so a different financial equation. The Waxoyl did a reasonably good job but it did get top ups. I don't know if any of you have seen the SS Gt Britain in Bristol. They have tried everything including full climate control to try and arrest the rust from eating away the steel plates, sadly only with limited success. It appears that once the salt ions have bonded with the steel all you can do is slow down the process. David The job we did for Alan on the van above was done with Waxoyl, but Ady heavily diluted it with diesel to make it flow better. I haven't seen the Classics Monthly article, but I do recall that Practical Classics did some tests a couple of years ago and Waxoyl came out very badly. I did my own car with Dinitrol 3125, which seems to be holding up OK. DINITROL PRODUCTS. As you've suggested, I really ought to revisit this! Chris. |
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Post by kelsham on May 28, 2013 14:30:44 GMT
 Lets see if these work, I have had further problems, I failed to let the Bonda primer dry properly. The stonechip then reacted and bubbled. After much faffing about I have just sprayed a top coat on for the MOT tommorrow. |
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