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Post by kelsham on Jul 10, 2012 16:27:55 GMT
I went to start the Landcrab earlier today, it must have known that I intended to carry out a sad task, namely taking my old Rover 100 to the scrapyard behind it on a trailer.
I churned it over and over, eventually I looked beneath the bonnet, petrol was pouring out over the top of the float chamber.
Obviously the pipe must be leaking where it enters the carb. tightened the clamp, still leaked, cut a small piece of the pipe and reconnected. Still leaked.
I then realised that the overlow exits the carb just beneath the pipe. Of course the float is either stuck or the needle valve is not seating. I removed the float and cleaned the valve. It still leaked.
Went into the spares cache and found my spare carb, cleaned the needle etc and fitted it.
still leaked. I am working in the darkest part of the garage with a torch that keeps falling over at critical moments.
Went and had a cup of tea. After throwing the torch on the floor.
Began to wonder about fuel pump pressure? happily sanity returned, I went back to the rubber pipe and cut off another piece refitted and the leak stopped.
I obviously need to fit a tighter piece of rubber tubing, it looks as if the internal diameter is either 1/4 inch or six mm.
The present tubing seems a loose sliding fit.
Regards Kels.
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 10, 2012 21:13:24 GMT
You really need to get some pipe clips on there - belt and braces.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 11, 2012 2:05:30 GMT
Maybe the alcohol in the modern petrol is not doing your rubber pipes any good. I would recommend changing them before the fire!
Sorry to hear about the demise of your Rover 100.
Regards
David
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Post by tommydp on Jul 11, 2012 11:38:29 GMT
I use 6 mm petrol hose from pump to carb, and clips of course. I'm quite sure it's down to a stuck float needle caused by dirt etc.
These carbs will overflow easily if the needle stucks. This condition is more than dangerous, as petrol will drip straight onto the hot manifold. I always fit shields beow the float chamber, at least to rout petrol away from the manifold should a leak occur.
Use carb cleaner and clean the complete float chamber, needle etc. If it overflows you could also try tapping the float lightly with a screwdriver, to free a stuck needle.
Tommy
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Post by kelsham on Jul 11, 2012 14:10:26 GMT
In this case it was the petrol pipe, I bought some this morning and fitted it. Leak cured. It was marked 6mm or 1/4 inch.
I hitched the car trailer onto the Landcrab and drove off to the scrapyard, Landcrab seemed to be making heavy weather of towing.
The scrapyard is about 15 miles away, Mid wales consists of hills most of them seemed to be en route. Eventually found the srapyard, my first visit there. Parked in entrance and went to ask about the correct procedure. I was told to drive onto the weighbridge.
Went back to the Landcrab, it refused to start, panic set in I was obstructing the road. One wag suggested weighing in the lot. Offered to help tow it onto the weighbridge. I was tempted.
After some churning over and vaguely prodding around, I changed the rotor arm, I carry a secret hoard of spares. She fired up and drove serenely onto the weighbridge.
The Rover 100 was lifted off and I was reweighed, I left the engine running this time. I was handed 70 pounds cash.
When I
arrived home I could smell burning, it came from the trailer brakes. They are a weird floating set up. I removed the trailer and went to restart. More churning over without firing. I left it for half an hour and she started and drove into the garage.
I am wondering if she is flooding, I have the later manifold and carb. I dont think it has the drain tubes fitted.
She also seems reluctant to start using choke. I usually pull out the choke and push it in when starting from cold when she will fire.
Regards Kels.
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Post by indianajones on Jul 12, 2012 0:04:08 GMT
Hmmm a bit of a mystery here =/
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 12, 2012 0:04:37 GMT
Kels, sorry to hear of your woes. While difficulty with hot starting can be down to many things, you seem to have fuelling and ignition problems. As your car doesn't need choke, I would suggest the mixture setting is either way out (too rich), or more likely as Tommy suggested it is flooding because of a stuck float needle. Your float may also be punctured which would also cause flooding. The fact that changing the rotor arm enabled you to restart, may suggest that either the rotor arm itself was defective - there seem to be many like that around, and /or the ignition system is marginal. Ie the usual checks, plugs, leads, cap, contact breaker, coil etc - check the low tension voltages and resistances. Altenatively changing the rotor arm may just have allowed more time for the excesss petrol to evaporate so was a coincidence As I say to everyone also check the ignition timing if it is out it can cause all kinds of problems that look like fuelling issues. However, I would start with the carb as the likely cause. I don't think that having the manifold without the drain holes is the key factor. Regards David After some churning over and vaguely prodding around, I changed the rotor arm, I carry a secret hoard of spares. She fired up and drove serenely onto the weighbridge. ..... I removed the trailer and went to restart. More churning over without firing. I left it for half an hour and she started and drove into the garage. I am wondering if she is flooding, I have the later manifold and carb. I dont think it has the drain tubes fitted. She also seems reluctant to start using choke. I usually pull out the choke and push it in when starting from cold when she will fire. Regards Kels. |
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Post by kelsham on Jul 13, 2012 15:16:59 GMT
Thanks for the comments, I did have hose clips fitted originally, the hose was just slightly oversize.
I decided that she was too rich. It looks as though she was pointing me towards the carb when the pipe started to leak.
After some thought I checked the float level using a 5mm drill as a gauge. It appeared to be correct. I thought it would be worth refitting the second float chamber lid complete with needle valve to eliminate the valve.
the two valves were different as were the floats. The original assy had a spring loaded valve and the float was held by a stainless arm that operated against the pin.
The replacement had a solid valve, and the float operated directly against via a plastic pad incorporated into the float.
I pulled out the choke and turned the key. She burst into life immediately. I took her up the road and found I needed a little choke to get clean running.
Once warm she fired first turn of the key.
It would seem that the original valve was leaking slightly raising the petrol level. I will get another needle valve and replace the original.
It does stand for long periods without use, not the most considerate use of a car. the valve probably corroded. Although when tested by blowing against it when off the car it seemed ok.
Regards Kels.
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