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Post by dave1800 on May 26, 2012 10:46:34 GMT
A plea for a little help with my electronic project please. I want to use the temperature sensor fitted to the cylinder head to drive both the car temperature gauge and as the input to an electronic unit.
The problem is that the instruments on the Landcrabs use a bi-metallic voltage stabiliser that works by switching the supply to the gauge on and off to achieve around 10 volts on average. This will totally confuse the electronics in my box!
I need to know the approximate frequency that this switches under normal running conditions - not with the engine off. The easiest way to do this is to measure the voltage between the temperature sensor and ground with a moving coil analogue meter (not digital) and count the number of times the needle falls over say a 30 second period. I can then buffer the electronics in my unit to smooth this out.
If this means anything to anyone, I'm sure many of you will find it total jibberish, I would be very grateful to hear from you. Sadly I don't have access yet here to a Landcrab to do it myself, but am trying to get as much ready as I can now to keep me amused!
Many thanks in anticipation, David
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Post by tommydp on May 28, 2012 11:09:44 GMT
Hi Dave! I'll have a look at this, in a few days or so. I have a Gunson Testtune, which I guess will do the job?
Am I right if I connect the negative lead of the instrument to ground and the positive one to the transmitter, with the lead to the instrument/ voltage stabilizer still connected to the transmitter? And I suppose the engine will have to run, at operating temperature?
Regards, Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on May 30, 2012 0:46:50 GMT
Hi Tommy Many thanks, yes the connections are as you describe. The engine will need to run but it doesn't need to be hot as the regulator switches in response to the voltage from the alternator/dynamo and not the resistance of the sensor. regards David Hi Dave! I'll have a look at this, in a few days or so. I have a Gunson Testtune, which I guess will do the job? Am I right if I connect the negative lead of the instrument to ground and the positive one to the transmitter, with the lead to the instrument/ voltage stabilizer still connected to the transmitter? And I suppose the engine will have to run, at operating temperature? Regards, Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Jun 3, 2012 19:14:03 GMT
Hi again, Dave! Sorry it took a while.. I've now done the test, even with a video to prove it! On average I would say the needle drops about 40 times in 30 seconds. As you can see, the motion of the needle is not identical each time. The car has 14.3 Volts at the battery while running. (As you may hear, the alternator rumbles, however it charges as supposed to.) I'll change it later... I set the meter to the low voltage range, as on the high voltage range the needle was at the bottom and its motion was hard to follow. The needle swings from around 6 to 7 Volts, down to 3 to 4 Volts. (A bit hard to read the scale in the video...) Please ignore my RED battery earth cable, the old one was bad and I didn't have a black one when I got the car running a few weeks ago:-) The car has been converted to negative earth in its previous life. This is the car which has been standing 24 years. Hope this is of any help, Dave! Feel free to ask if I can be of further help. Regards, Tommy.
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Post by dave1800 on Jun 3, 2012 23:56:12 GMT
Many thanks Tommy. I'm very impressed by the video which clearly shows the regulator in action. I'm also amazed they keep on going for decades. Now I know this, I can build in a circuit that averages the reading over ten second periods - the sytem doesn't need to know of water temperature changes any faster than that. So, if anyone has a temperature and /or fuel gauge that read lower with the lights, heater, wipers etc running you now know where to look for an answer! regards and thanks again David On average I would say the needle drops about 40 times in 30 seconds. As you can see, the motion of the needle is not identical each time. Regards, Tommy.
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