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Post by indianajones on Jan 24, 2012 19:34:19 GMT
First off the mechanic has informed me he'll be back on Tuesday and will get to my car. Hopefully I might have my car by the end of next week. Now once I get her back it's service time, here's a rough list, please let me know if I've left out something or any tips  -Change oil -Change oil filter -Change coolant (but maybe not right now as I still have a wooden bung in my radiator lol, need to get that fixed) -Replace spark plugs -Install new K&N air filter -Replace petrol fitler -Check timing -Tune carb (last!) Tomorrow I shall order a rebuild kit for my carb. Any advice/instructions when rebuilding a carb? I hear boiling components in water/lemon juice is meant to clean them up well? Hopefully this will get her running a bit better. Any advice greatly welcome lads Regards, Andrew |
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 25, 2012 1:39:48 GMT
Check and adjust tappets - before adjusting carb! Check brake pads and clean the calipers Grease anti squeal shims (high melting point grease) Check and adjust rear brake shoes Grease handbrake cable Check all suspension joints and mountings Check wheel bearings Check exhaust and mountings Check engine mountings Check drive shaft boots and couplings Check for oil / water leaks Check condition of all hoses, water, servo vacuum, PCV Lubricate throttle and choke cables, door and boot hinges I'm sure I've missed something obvious! As far as the carb rebuild goes, check the SU websites for advice, especially note: absolute cleanliness is required never use any abrasive on the needle, piston or vacuum chamber etc try and use an approved carb cleaner (lemon juice is acidic so not sure if it is harmful) Not sure why you are rebuilding the carb AFTER the service as it will need to be retuned. Good luck! David First off the mechanic has informed me he'll be back on Tuesday and will get to my car. Hopefully I might have my car by the end of next week. Now once I get her back it's service time, here's a rough list, please let me know if I've left out something or any tips -Change oil -Change oil filter -Change coolant (but maybe not right now as I still have a wooden bung in my radiator lol, need to get that fixed) -Replace spark plugs -Install new K&N air filter -Replace petrol fitler -Check timing -Tune carb (last!) Tomorrow I shall order a rebuild kit for my carb. Any advice/instructions when rebuilding a carb? I hear boiling components in water/lemon juice is meant to clean them up well? Hopefully this will get her running a bit better. Any advice greatly welcome lads Regards, Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 25, 2012 2:00:05 GMT
Yup, 20W50 mineral. Yup. -Change coolant (but maybe not right now as I still have a wooden bung in my radiator lol, need to get that fixed) Maybe not now. Deal with the plug first. No point on spending on antifreeze if there's a chance you'll waste it. Maybe - they're a good indicator as to the state of your engine and they may well clean up and just need the gap re-setting. -Install new K&N air filter Boy racer....  . Bear in mind that it'll let more air through, which will effectively lean off the mixture. If your car is set up like so many classics, ie slightly rich, you may just hit lucky and land spot-on, otherwise you might have to tweak the carb slightly and enrich it. Always - penny part. See how she runs first. See how she runs first. I hear boiling components in water/lemon juice is meant to clean them up well? Not sure about that one. Vinegar and patience works; white spirits and an old toothbrush is a more traditional way of doing it. HTH, Chris. |
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Post by indianajones on Jan 25, 2012 2:51:09 GMT
Cheers lads Well won't need to check front brake pads as I replaced them around 2 miles ago lol. And my wheel bearings etc should be all good once she's back from the mechanic! If I recall correctly I checked one of my plugs a little while back. Was black and sooty, but not oily. Which acording to the coloured page in my Haynes manual, she's running too rich? Andrew |
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Post by tommydp on Jan 29, 2012 9:39:45 GMT
Hi Andrew!
Regarding the carb, from my own experience, I strongly advice you to thoroughly clean and adjust your carburettor before changing anything on it. Believe me, I've been down this road many times! It seems the carb seldom causes trouble, as long as it's kept clean and correctly adjusted. It's tempting to get into the carb when you're having running issues though. I have lost count of how many carbs, needles, jets etc I've tried but the symptoms have remained. It also seems your car is running rich which could point at the need of an adjustment only.
Do as follows:
- Remove piston chamber, the top of the carb. Three screws.
- Remove piston and spring gently, take care of the needle at the bottom. Do not remove, bend or scratch the needle!
- Remove float chamber lid, three screws.
- clean everything using carb cleaner and a soft rag/ paper. Clean with compressed air. Blow air through the jet into the float chamber
- Especially clean out the float chamber and the dashpot piston which you've removed. Clean the grooved, widest part of the piston thoroughly. Clean the inside of the piston chamber/ dashpot thoroughly.
- Once cleaned it's a good idea to check the drop time of the piston from the dashpot. Put the piston into the dashpot/ carb top cover, without the spring. Block the two air holes on the underside of the piston using masking tape etc. Invert the assembly. Keeping it upside down, hold the piston and let the dashpot fall from its own weight( do not let it fall onto the floor etc) It should take 5-7 seconds before the widest part of the piston is flush with the dashpot edge.
- Put the carb together. If there is a lifting pin on it, litft the piston by this. Once you let the piston fall inside the chamber it should hit the bridge with a pronounced metallic "clunk". If you don't have the lifting pin lift the piston from the intake side of the carb. Now repeat this with jet adjusting nut, under the carb) fylly up and fully down. The same clunk should be heard. If not we'll proceed in another thread.
- If ok: Detach choke cable and fill the carb piston with oil, just about the top of the hollow rod. Screw jet adjusting nut fully up against the bottom of carb. Then screw it twelve flats of the nut down.
- Screw idle screw out, so the carb butterfly/ throttle plate just closes. Then screw the idle screw one and a half turn in.
- Start car and let it reach operating temperature. Idle will be high.
- Now adjust the adjusting nut/ mixture up or down to get the highest possible idle with even running.
- adjust the idle screw to achieve normal idle speed.
That's it! Best of luck:-)
Tommy
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Post by indianajones on Jan 29, 2012 22:41:17 GMT
Tommy, that's a great write up, thanks!
As for the changing stuff on it, hmmm I just ordered my kit so....it's on the way now. Would seem like a waste of 40 pounds? but saying that I could just store it for when needed and just use the gaskets etc?
What do you think?
Cheers,
Andrew
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Post by tommydp on Jan 29, 2012 23:00:34 GMT
Tommy, that's a great write up, thanks! As for the changing stuff on it, hmmm I just ordered my kit so....it's on the way now. Would seem like a waste of 40 pounds? but saying that I couldj ust store it for when needed and just use the gaskets etc? What do you think? Cheers, Andrew Absolutely, keep it as spares, unless of course it turns out you really have to change something rather than cleaning and adjusting. I believe you should change the needle and seat right away though, as they are often worn and can disturb the mixture. This is the valve that regulates the petrol flow into the float chamber. It's screwed onto the underside of the float lid. I'm sure it's included in your kit. Good luck! Let's know how things turn out:-) Tommy |
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Post by indianajones on Jan 29, 2012 23:23:35 GMT
Yep I figured the needle would of been a bit worn by now perhaps, for all I know it's been the same one for the last 42 years! These are all the goodies I'm getting by the way:     So I'll inspect and replace parts as needed, and keep the new/old stuff as spares -Andrew |
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Post by threelitre on Jan 30, 2012 10:14:21 GMT
Fiddling with carbs is overrated imo. It is good to check and clean all the components when the car is new to you. But once clean and properly adjusted the carb will not need to be touched for years (unless you're doing 20k miles a year).
Regards,
Alexander
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Post by indianajones on Jan 30, 2012 18:19:49 GMT
Fiddling with carbs is overrated imo. It is good to check and clean all the components when the car is new to you. But once clean and properly adjusted the carb will not need to be touched for years (unless you're doing 20k miles a year). Regards, Alexander Hopefully Alexander, that's what will happen I'm yet to touch the carb on this car. Have been a bit scared but now I'm looking forward to it. Just wanna get it sorted. -Andrew |
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 31, 2012 4:50:14 GMT
Just one more thing I can think of to check on the carb. Have you checked for play between the throttle spindle and the body of the carb? This is notorious, mainly on high mileage cars, for leaking air and poor idling. You can compensate by richening the mixture, but this means the car runs rich at higher rpm which is undesirable. Unfortunately it is usually the soft aluminium carb body that wears more than the spindle.
The carb body can be reamed out and bushes inserted, but you need a good engineering company as the alignment is crucial.
Regards
David
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Post by indianajones on Jan 31, 2012 6:40:52 GMT
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 31, 2012 9:57:19 GMT
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Post by indianajones on Jan 31, 2012 18:59:26 GMT
Does seem a bit iffy that method. wouldn't hurt to try if you had a tired spare carb lying around.
Also I see SU make new bodies for the carbs, not cheap at all, would be better off get a full rebuild done by them but still at least you can get them!
-Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Feb 1, 2012 0:40:15 GMT
There is a cheat........
Really thick, heavy grade grease. Smear a dollop around the shaft bushings and you have a flexible seal. It's too thick to be drawn into the carburettor and just needs an additional smear each time you do your service. Bit messy, but effective.
Obviously, the correct thing to do is repair the carburettor properly.
Chris.
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. Bear in mind that it'll let more air through, which will effectively lean off the mixture. If your car is set up like so many classics, ie slightly rich, you may just hit lucky and land spot-on, otherwise you might have to tweak the carb slightly and enrich it.
