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Post by halkyon on Jul 9, 2022 14:53:17 GMT
Thanks chaps.
Had a litte drive and all seems fine now, perhaps it was the surface corrosion from storage on the pressure plate burning off? It wasn't perfectly smooth. Will still check it out when it's not a heatwave though as I have no light in the garage so need to be outside.
Wiring is rectified except for the reversing lights that are fit but do not work. Not sure about that one yet!
I checked the engine breather and it's not blocked because it doesn't exist, it's just an empty hole! Same for the little housing plate (removed at some point to time the engine and never replaced I presume). I seriously doubt those parts can be sourced but can make the plate up from ally and stick an aftermarket filter on a hose take-off for the breather filter.
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Post by andrewa on Jul 9, 2022 18:29:58 GMT
Well that's a result - well done. Can't remember what else was on your to do list but you seem to be rattling though it. No doubt Nick will be along soon to remind us that 27 - 30 degrees is a warmish winters day where he now lives!!!
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 9, 2022 18:36:23 GMT
Well done. Reversing light switch should be on the side of the gear selector housing. Wiring should run back under the front carpet.
C.
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Post by 1800heap on Jul 9, 2022 21:35:32 GMT
27 degrees Brrr brass monkeys I am getting a jumper out and longs! Nick Well that's a result - well done. Can't remember what else was on your to do list but you seem to be rattling though it. No doubt Nick will be along soon to remind us that 27 - 30 degrees is a warmish winters day where he now lives!!!
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Post by halkyon on Jul 10, 2022 15:02:48 GMT
I briefly braved the furnice of a car and fixed the heater fan earlier - was just missing a fuse! I put a 25A in, hopefully about right?
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 10, 2022 17:42:41 GMT
Interesting - that's an unfused circuit. Motor will draw something like 7.5amps, so 15amps should be enough. The three in the actual fuse box are all 30amp.
C.
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Post by halkyon on Jul 10, 2022 20:35:25 GMT
There are no less than two inline fuses hanging behind the demister switch. Goodness knows what's going on there then.
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 11, 2022 5:17:23 GMT
I suggest keeping any eye on it, fuses are sometimes removed for a good (ie bad) reason. If you have an ammeter try measuring the current draw which would be excessive if the fan isn't rotating freely in the bearings. David I briefly braved the furnice of a car and fixed the heater fan earlier - was just missing a fuse! I put a 25A in, hopefully about right?
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Post by halkyon on Jul 11, 2022 16:25:44 GMT
Can't remember what else was on your to do list but you seem to be rattling though it. Its been fun so far.
- Cooling fan inoperative [✓]
- Cooling fan sensor inoperative [✓] - LED indicator relay [✓]
- LED bulbs all round [✓]
- Interior fan inoperative [✓] - Clutch slip - friction plate and rear crank seal [✓] - Coolant lines [✓] - Fuel pipes [✓] - Fuel filter [✓]
- Fuel pump mounting [✓] - Vacuum pipes [✓] - Breather pipes [✓] - Breather filter [✓]
- Contaminated/old brake fluid [✓] - Contaminated/old clutch fluid [✓]
- Rear brake service [✓] - Fizzing brake-bleed nippes [✓]
- Handbrake adjustment [✓] - Incorrect coolant type [✓] - Oil & filter change [✓] - Buy outdoor cover [✓] - Bump-steer (tracking) [✓] - Auxilliary belt [✓] - Add rear seatbelts [✓] - Remove wobbly door mirrors [✓]
- Front wheel bearing play excessive [✓] - Wiring loom touching exhaust [✓] - Tune & balance carbs [✓] - Reversing light(s) inoperative [ ] - Windscreen washer line blocked [ ]
- New radiator cap [ ] - Minor water leak into driver's footwell [ ] - Fabricate clutch housing cover plate [ ]
- Headlights inoperative [ ]
- Replace exhaust system [ ] - Front bump-stops [ ]
- Welding - N/S front inner wing [ ]
- Welding - N/S front sill [ ]
- Welding - N/S rear sill [ ] - Welding - O/S rear bumper mount [ ] - Welding - O/S rear floor above displacer (MOT requirement) [ ]
I'll get back to putting my ridiculous tuned A-Series engine back in the Minor soon!
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 11, 2022 17:35:49 GMT
Cracking progress so far.
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Post by andrewa on Jul 12, 2022 15:37:58 GMT
That's some work rate ! Fingers crossed that's the limit on the welding - as I'm sure you know, these cars seem to be particularly good at hiding the tin worm.... Cheers Andrew
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Post by halkyon on Jul 17, 2022 20:20:40 GMT
Possibly my least successful day on the car so far today!
Tidied up the all headlight connections forwards of the firewall and they now light up when connected straight to the battery but still no luck with the switch. Need to figure out how to extract it from the dashboard - how does one get at the back?
Went to start the car to drive it up some ramps and nothing, occasionally a click from the starter but sometimes completely dead, not even the red light in the speedo (oil pressure emergency or alternator charge I presume). Scratched my head for a long time, pulled the starter and polished all the contacts and earth again, then traced pretty much every connection under the bonnet. Still dead car. Pulled the wiring plugs out of the firewall and quite a bit of green on the spades - one generous squirt of contact cleaner and I have a car again!
Upon testing everything else I discover indicating either direction now flashes all the lights like hazards, doh!
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 18, 2022 6:52:32 GMT
The joys of other peoples electrics... Cleaning everything is a good starting point. One of those little fibreglass tipped brushes is a really good tool for getting into connector blocks and scrubbing away the verdigris. The various switches just clip in from the front, so you should be able to pop them out with careful levering.
The indicators sound like there is a fault related to the hazard light circuit. It appeared to be an after-market set-up, so perhaps disconnecting that might be a good starting point.
Chris.
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Post by halkyon on Jul 21, 2022 10:17:29 GMT
Yes the hazard circuit is gone, nearly back to standard I hope.
The headlight switch didn't pull out but the panel was easy to remove - two screws underneath and held by dowels at the top. I tested the switch with a multimeter and it's fine!
Also noted there were a couple of unused cables coming out of the loom back there - big fat brown ones and a black ground.
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Post by halkyon on Jul 21, 2022 20:22:12 GMT
Traced the headlight issue to the indicator stalk - the contacts that are connected until high-beam is engaged are damaged and I'm not sure if they're repairable.
Perhaps I could bypass that function in the stalk and have a relay (Lucas SRB146) do it if it's necessary to have main beam turn off when high is engaged.
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