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Post by broncoza on Sept 11, 2018 6:44:44 GMT
Sorted my front wheel bearings and seals, still have a bit of a rumble at over 80km/h so will be checking all the other wheel bearings and diff bearings over the weekend, but after the drive discovered I have a leak from what appears to be the selector cables. Thought it was dry but seems it is not.
Want to do the shrink wrap fix on the cables; but not sure whether it is easier to remove the gear stick end or the gearbox end to gain access? Any suggestions?
TIA
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 11, 2018 22:53:24 GMT
If it was me, I'd drop the lot. Remove gear lever from the cabin - twist cap, lift it out. Selector housing is on two rubber bobbins, undo them. Make sure the car is in neutral and remove the panel on the back of the gearbox, then you can stick the whole lot on the bench and deal wth it.
Don't forget to source new "O" rings as well. Might as well do all of it in one hot.
Chris.
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Post by broncoza on Oct 8, 2018 15:03:42 GMT
Ok so got it on the hoist and stripped out the unit and then stripped the assembly; Question when we talk about "O" Rings there are two sets. The one is on the outer swage and the other a flat ring on the shaft assembly. Are those the two sets to be replaced?
Hope to be able to match up at the hydraulic supply store; has any one got dimensions?
TIA
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 8, 2018 18:43:23 GMT
You have a PM.
Chris.
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Jim
New Member
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Post by Jim on Jan 28, 2019 5:11:23 GMT
Hi Guys, Noted this response to "Dreaded Selector Cable Leak" from last year. Done a bit of searching but can't find the answer. I have a leak from where the cables go into the gearbox and its pretty bad. I was seeking advice as to whether I can fix the leak while the engine is in the car? What is the fix needed (I have noted there is seals between the cable end and the speed change housing)? I was thinking I could remove the retaining plates and replace the o-ring(s) but I think the cables will have to be disconnected from the change levers, so the change lever housing has to come off not just retaining plates? Also, does it mean I have to get 3 new cables to fix the leak or is it just o-ring and gaskets? I did note some members mentioned shrink sleeves or something like that. Any advice or guidance will be very appreciated. Cheers Jim |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 30, 2019 1:08:55 GMT
The selector cable leak is a known issue and unless the cables are physically damaged, repair is quite straightforward. Drop off the gear selector and the plate from the rear of the gearbox. Disconnect the cable from the selector and the mounting plate. Label them - they are subtly different. Clean them until they are absolutely oil and grease free. I mean spotless, shiny, squeaky. You need to acquire a goodly length of self-adhesive shrink wrap tubing, the heavier gauge the better. For each cable, cut a short length of tube to cover the metal ferrules at each end and back onto the sleeving. Shrink and fit. Then cut a length to cover the entire cable, ferrules and all. Shrink to fit. Repeat three times and rebundle the cables. In the meantime, order up new "O" rings from Tony Wood, the LOCI spares guru. They're an odd size and he can supply. Contact spareathought[AT]landcrab[DOT]net. Clean everything again, fit "O" rings, make new gearbox plate gasket and re-assemble. Seek out the rest of the oil leaks.  Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 30, 2019 1:52:44 GMT
And don't forget to check the engine breather to ensure there is no crankcase pressure build up. David Seek out the rest of the oil leaks. Chris. |
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Jim
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Post by Jim on Jan 30, 2019 3:37:40 GMT
Hey Chris,
Class info. Will get on to Tony Wood for the "o" rings and get the sleeves as you advise. Will do that asap as I'm away next week so can get stuck in to the job as soon as I get back. Thanks for the definitive advice I'm looking forward to giving this a go (never done shrink wrap tube before). I will post the outcome when its completed.
David,
I will check for crankcase pressure I am assuming you mean after the repair is completed?
Thanks to both of you for great advice and helping me out. Jim
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 30, 2019 5:58:16 GMT
You can check whether there is air being sucked in through the rocker cover by taking off the filler cap and sealing it with your hand as you open the throttle (preferably engine hot). If that's good and you have the correct vented cap it gives you a good indication there isn't a build up of pressure forcing oil out. You can check this now before fixing the cables. David David, I will check for crankcase pressure I am assuming you mean after the repair is completed? Thanks to both of you for great advice and helping me out. Jim |
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Jim
New Member
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Post by Jim on Jan 30, 2019 6:10:54 GMT
Hi David,
Thanks for the information on how to test the pressure. I will do it after the repair as due to the oil leak being so bad there is hardly any oil in the engine so don't want to top up or run the motor until its fixed. I have emailed Tony Wood regarding the O-Rings so waiting for his response and will go looking for the shrink tubes tomorrow.
Cheers Jim
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Post by broncoza on Feb 1, 2019 8:59:29 GMT
Jim
I got a response from Tony but living at the bottom of the world and having a bad ROE I chose to get my seals custom machined. Quite a process but worked out very cheap; in GDP around 5p a seal custom made. Problem solved and I have a cubby full of additional ones for if and when leak returns.
Check that crank case pressure however; that is a good point
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Jim
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Post by Jim on Feb 5, 2019 5:59:00 GMT
Hi Broncoza,
Just got back from a trip and seen your post. I haven't had a response from Tony yet (will check email address was typed in right) so I am going to have to start looking around for the O-rings from elsewhere methinks. I'm in Northern suburbs South Australia so if you, or others, have any ideas on a supplier here or anywhere else I would appreciate any suggestions to source or alternatives. As I have no experience on the 1800 I am trying to understand your advice as to have the seals "custom machined". Am I right in assuming the selector cable end ferrules are machined to suit a smaller O-ring?
By the way, what's "ROE"?
Cheers Jim
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 5, 2019 7:56:49 GMT
Hi Jim If you follow this link you can confirm you have Tony's correct email address Tony WoodI assume you are LOCI member, I believe Tony gives priority to members. David |
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