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DFD702K.
Nov 19, 2019 18:43:41 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Nov 19, 2019 18:43:41 GMT
Did -2c cold start test with Wolseley this morning using battery bank/emergency starter pack. It'll start with just the battery but it's not a happy bunny. Starter spun much quicker and started on second turn. Engine can almost immediately be reduced to 60% choke and fairly soon after that to fast idle. *really* needs a thermostatic fan with this setup because the cold air + the fan means runs a bit cool. New flasher working fine. Am thinking about finding a small adhesive type 12v sump heater to warm starter battery pre start - might improve things because it's a fairly small battery for that lummox of an engine. I've also found in low temperatures starting with the clutch depressed is a much better proposition.
In other news guai protocol seems to be working but still in the worse stage of the "gets worse before it gets better" situation.
Hope everyone is well.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 20, 2019 17:04:15 GMT
Starter motor is a bit lazy on mine - doesn't like the cold much. Like yours, usually starts second turn.
Good to hear positive news on the health front. Trust it works out for you.
Chris.
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DFD702K.
Jan 14, 2020 14:09:05 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Jan 14, 2020 14:09:05 GMT
Starter motor is a bit lazy on mine - doesn't like the cold much. Like yours, usually starts second turn. Good to hear positive news on the health front. Trust it works out for you. Chris. Have replaced starter battery and made a world of difference. The old one was kaput. Have also made up gaskets for the side repeaters and one of the front indicators/side lights. Still have odd problem. Oil pressure on mechanical gauge is 65 at 3000 which is good, but reports half that on the dashboard gauge - I'm thinking I need a new sender but does anyone have the correct part number to go with a Wolseley 18/85 II because this car has a replacement engine with a mushroom type oil sender and it doesn't look to be correct - the possibility is its correct and knackered or incorrect and working fine, since the voltage regulator has been replaced and the gauge is reading as near as possible to 50% what the garages mech gauge read. I suspect the sender isn't matched to the gauge. I always on a cold start spin the engine with the choke in for oil pressure and then pull the choke to start it, 8 compressions and it'll go then push choke almost all in or its too rich. 22.6mpg last tank (compared to 18.8 last year). Once it's warm it'll start on second cylinder! Does anyone happen to know how spotlights were wired - independent switches or wired to high beam as I have some to fit. Rectangular with H3 leds. Also anyone who can do body welding on these around Colchester area because bodywork is not good..
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DFD702K.
Jan 14, 2020 14:10:20 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Jan 14, 2020 14:10:20 GMT
Can give details of gasket materials I used if anyone interested and the driving lights & bulbs.
Battery is a bosch one - 4 years warranty. Size is a code 063. Dynamo seems to charge it fine even with heater motor and lights going. Not cheap but well worth it.
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 14, 2020 19:40:50 GMT
Hi Rosie, Pressure sender is 13H3819. £60 from the MGOC - HERE. The spots on my Wolseley are fed from the switched side of the high beam switch. Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 15, 2020 6:15:17 GMT
Hi Rosie
Given the problems you had with your dim headlights before fitting the LEDs, I would strongly recommend wiring the spots through a relay. This would give you the best lighting and not place any more strain on the headlight switches - including the dip/beam - as they may be contributing to the problem and the additional load cause them to fail.
David
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DFD702K.
Jan 15, 2020 14:48:36 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Jan 15, 2020 14:48:36 GMT
Hi Rosie Given the problems you had with your dim headlights before fitting the LEDs, I would strongly recommend wiring the spots through a relay. This would give you the best lighting and not place any more strain on the headlight switches - including the dip/beam - as they may be contributing to the problem and the additional load cause them to fail. David I don't want them fed through the headlight circuit anyway, so that isn't a problem. I'm going to configure them as instead of rather than in addition to - more to the point the LED headlights at full beam are 45w not 65w so either way I have enough to play with. I'd really recommend the LED headlights in areas that have a lot of fog - so much better - than even perfect incands on an alternator. And the drop was caused by the dynamo dropping under charge RPM I've had that with cars that had a new loom fitted.
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DFD702K.
Jan 15, 2020 14:56:12 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Jan 15, 2020 14:56:12 GMT
Hi Rosie, Pressure sender is 13H3819. £60 from the MGOC - HERE. The spots on my Wolseley are fed from the switched side of the high beam switch. Chris. Thanks, it's what I suspected for the spots which is academic since the headlights I have are more than adequate. Thanks for the info on the oil switch - tried the fiche and couldn't find it, tried ebay and probably found something that'll work - but £60 a lot of cash. But will keep a note. Also I have a dynamo not alternator so will that make difference to sensor reading (or require different sensor). Quite surprised its doing over 22mpg this time of year but we're going to get the cold soon..
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DFD702K.
Feb 10, 2020 14:54:08 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Feb 10, 2020 14:54:08 GMT
Still looking at an over 22mpg tank in the cold with relatively short journeys - I think the ram/cold air intake improving mpg (pumping losses and improving breathing?) because that's the only change that would make a difference in the cold, electronic ignition shouldn't be affected by temperature. Last year in the cold I was getting 18/19.
I think an upgraded exhaust manifold might make a real difference but don't have the cash.
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 11, 2020 7:00:31 GMT
Interesting. The idea of the "winter" position of the air cleaner housing was to take in warm air from the exhaust manifold to speed up the warming up process and make the engine more efficient by helping to atomise the fuel, especially on short journeys in cold weather. It would, however, also enrichen the air fuel mixture so maybe of questionable benefit on longer journeys?. Later (last batch) crabs had a temperature controlled flap to divert the air intake.
David
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DFD702K.
Feb 11, 2020 14:38:34 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Feb 11, 2020 14:38:34 GMT
Interesting. The idea of the "winter" position of the air cleaner housing was to take in warm air from the exhaust manifold to speed up the warming up process and make the engine more efficient by helping to atomise the fuel, especially on short journeys in cold weather. It would, however, also enrichen the air fuel mixture so maybe of questionable benefit on longer journeys?. Later (last batch) crabs had a temperature controlled flap to divert the air intake. David I have a feeling that any advantage gained from the warm air (which helps mpg, hence the idea of a warm air intake) pulled in from the usual position would be more than removed by the utterly awful airflow increasing the pumping losses for the engine. Having a direct cold air intake (non pressurised) will slightly improve power but reduce mpg (more cold, more petrol). However it looks like the improved airflow has completely removed the pumping losses by pressurising the mixture hitting the back of the valves and improving efficiency. Which might further be improved by a high flow exhaust manifold... That is *precisely* the reason almost all modern cars use a pressurised intake from the air being pushed against the front of the vehicle. Now, the interesting part. When I first installed this (without the needle change) it was running lean at 50-55mph cruise, quite badly (therefore it would follow the increased airflow too much for the standard needle). So I sourced (and had) installed a needle that's the same profile but 15-20% richer (TW to narrower KW rally needle (used on the rally minis) ) and had it tuned. Oddly enough the mpg improvement is in that ballpark and the car is surprisingly quicker at those speeds than before (first time I tried to overtake afterwards I almost hit the other car it was that much livelier). I don't think the horsepower would be much improved but I strongly suspect the torque band is substantially different. It would seem therefore that the pumping losses - plus the godawful airflow down behind the block and the heat - is the reason for 15-20% improved airflow from the ram/cai - which makes a lot of sense considering how almost every modern car has an engine intake fitted into a high pressure position somewhere.. I really did not expect 22.6mpg out of the car in the cold (this last tank) - when the usual mpg drop in winter for anything is 15% and I'd been prewarming the engine before every journey (most of which are relatively short). The engine seems much smoother above 50mph too. There is a downside if you don't have an electric fan fitted - the engine runs quite cool in these temperatures - but that'll help engine temperatures when ambient is high I suspect. I still can't quite work out the reason for that bloody great fairing around the radiator either, it makes no sense to me, I'd think it would be better to fair the radiator against the body to create a high pressure zone (inside the bay) to help push the hot air out - since it would possibly act to strengthen the coanda effect of airflow on the outside of the body helping to pull the heat through as well (I suspect overcooling without that shroud myself). Sorry for the essay.
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 12, 2020 7:50:29 GMT
Lots of interesting thoughts. The air flow around the engine is also complicated. The cowling, however, does increase the effectiveness of the fan considerably. While fairing the radiator to the body could improve the cooling when the car is moving at speed it would very likely result in overheating in heavy traffic at low speed. The crab in 1800 form doesn't suffer from overheating even in modified form in the UK climate whereas its Oz 2227cc cousins and UK AM 2200 and W6 with conventionally placed radiators do - admittedly other factors at play.
David
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DFD702K.
Apr 16, 2020 14:00:34 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Apr 16, 2020 14:00:34 GMT
Still alive, the car & me. Has anyone looked at replacing the rear clusters with something else? Like the generic 4" round LED ones that are available. I was thinking a kit with a mounting plate to replace the old cluster with cutouts for the replacements 2x4" each side faired in if anyone else interested..
Hope everyone OK.
R
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DFD702K.
Jun 20, 2020 16:43:05 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Jun 20, 2020 16:43:05 GMT
Car running OK - have blanked off the grille bar the bottom V section with aluminium tape and the temperature back up to normal (ram intake supplying cold air to engine, no overheating issues). Am trying to decide whether to trade in for a good condition Humber Sceptre or crowdsource a supercharged diesel conversion (low compression mgb pistons are your friend) and restoration, considering that'd be cleaner, better mpg, and they're rare cars. But I'd need the best part of £10k.I've put a lot of work in but I'm starting to have problems driving it because of the fibro and stuff that's needed is beyond me. Will almost start cold without choke at the moment.
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Post by tonymark3 on Jun 20, 2020 17:59:58 GMT
Funnily enough mine starts without choke at moment. Have set timing with strobe at 9 degrees btdc and adjusted carb as advised. Use the piston lifter and it drops slightly then settles, but suspect still a little rich if it starts with no choke. have ordered new springs for dizzy and as I have the usual leak from the tappet covers will fit new cam followers at same time. Suspect as I have done 110k they may be worn. Lift from cam still seems ok. As I have Peter Burgess fast road head maybe it needs an SA needle so when I have done the dizzy and checked it on the road we will see. As usual, any advice gratefully received.
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