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Post by dave1800 on Mar 2, 2019 3:15:31 GMT
Daniel Richmond would have been proud of you. Let us know the results.
David
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 3, 2019 6:23:54 GMT
It will be interesting to see if the siamese inlet port effect these theoretical resonance calculations, way beyond my maths capabilities! siamese port Make sure when you fit the tubes that nothing can rub against the flexible hydrolastic pipes as the engine rocks on its mountings. A not uncommon failure especially on early Mk1 cars. Did you know that one reason for the engine being mounted with the carb and exhaust at the rear was to prevent icing of the SU? David To vary the resonance effect you change the intake length - shorter length = higher rpm. So a 4000rpm tuned intake would be 27.5 inches long (5000rpm - 21.6in) . Since most driving will be 60mph or below the longer one seems more sensible. Fitted new plug leads this morning.
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DFD702K.
Mar 6, 2019 13:13:17 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Mar 6, 2019 13:13:17 GMT
It will be interesting to see if the siamese inlet port effect these theoretical resonance calculations, way beyond my maths capabilities! siamese port Make sure when you fit the tubes that nothing can rub against the flexible hydrolastic pipes as the engine rocks on its mountings. A not uncommon failure especially on early Mk1 cars. Did you know that one reason for the engine being mounted with the carb and exhaust at the rear was to prevent icing of the SU? David To vary the resonance effect you change the intake length - shorter length = higher rpm. So a 4000rpm tuned intake would be 27.5 inches long (5000rpm - 21.6in) . Since most driving will be 60mph or below the longer one seems more sensible. Fitted new plug leads this morning. There are heat plates available for the 1.75" SU carb - basically you plumb the carb spacer plate into the cooling circuit - which means if someone ever made a crossflow head suitable for the standard manifolds (and I think they did) you'd save the icing problem. You could also do it with a pipe manifold routed front to back. Theoretically a MGB head could be used with a single carb manifold - induction side forward. I actually know who Daniel Richmond was. I've finally figured out the dizzy problem - the engine was rebuilt and the keyway insert has been mounted wrongly - by about 90 (or one cylinder). I went for a 30 mile run around this morning having added octane booster - not one single misfire - yesterday without it it was bag of hammers time. Should the thermostat stay closed until it opens up all at once or should it be a gradual thing? I've had it up to 75mph perfectly happily and I suspect but can't confirm (no tachometer) that it's running slower than before at that speed (should be doing 4000rpm but now doesn't feel quite that high) if that's the case then the ram effect & intake is doing what it should. I've also researched the .862 4th gear. You'll get a ~1000rpm drop from 3rd to 4th, a 102mph top speed and 75mph will be 3450 instead of 4000rpm. Best of all it won't need adjustment of the speedo. This will fit in *all* landcrabs - 1800/2200 since they all use the same transmission ratios - which makes *no* sense but hey. I don't think the siamesed ports will make a difference - because the resonance is a function of length and I *think* that it's a function of length from intake to carb throttle plate (1250mm) or intake to valves (WOT). Siamesed ports may increase turbulence but I'm not sure what effect that might have.
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DFD702K.
Mar 10, 2019 10:11:34 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Mar 10, 2019 10:11:34 GMT
Just did a quick fill up. Over 47.2 mixed miles the car did 30.81mpg with the prototype long intake. Given that professional plenum testing gave a ~15-16% improvement over stock (and this is a ram/large plenum combination) I'd tentatively say that from the 25-26mpg stated figures this is a fair improvement. 15% is 30.2 & the professional paper I've seen did not involve ram pressure from forward movement. It will need professional tuning to set it up properly unfortunately, and that's upwards of £300. It's still not happy at speeds above 75mph but then I'm never going to take it that high. One small refill is not really good evidence but it's interesting enough I decided to share it.
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DFD702K.
Apr 10, 2019 11:21:34 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Apr 10, 2019 11:21:34 GMT
Well, good news, engine oil pressure tested - 65/15 which means that the 28800 miles on that engine seems dead on. Slight timing chain rattle causing what sounded like bearings. Need a little welding on back of sill & a new driveshaft linkage, apparently. Have sourced a instrument voltage regulator and the wipers grommet and need to get them fitted. Have replaced standard wiper blade with a spoilered one - so it actually wipes. Does anyone know what the name of the clip is that secures the wiper blade to the arm? I seem to remember someone mentioned "solid" driveshafts?
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Post by Penguin45 on Apr 18, 2019 12:56:15 GMT
I meant to write a bit about driveshafts, so apologies for the delay.
Manual.
1/ Non-sliding joint, CV joint at hub, claw at inboard end. 2/ Non sliding joint, CV joint at both ends. Replaces output shaft from gearbox as well. 3/ Sliding joint, CV joint at hub end, claw fitting at inboard end.
Claw fitting will accept the rubber drive coupling ("Hairy rubber spider") or the nylon universal joint coupling.
Automatic.
1/ Sliding joint, CV joint at hub end, Hardy Spicer universal joint at inboard end. 2/ As 2/ above, but l/h r/h fitting is reversed. I have no idea why.
TommyDP also had a vast amount of fun fitting Princess 1800 shafts, before deciding that this was a bad plan.
I have never driven a car with either the non-sliding joint or the nylon coupling, so can't comment on the differences between the types. I am told that they are harsher to drive and can be rough on the engine mounts. I feel sure others will add their comments.
Chris.
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DFD702K.
May 2, 2019 12:26:27 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on May 2, 2019 12:26:27 GMT
*Finally*
Identified rough running problem - mixture was far too rich - backed it down about half a turn and is like a different car. Odd though that running rich gave almost same symptoms as running lean. MGB youtube video gave me the clue - sounded just like my car at idle and yellow on colour tune (too rich) - had to do almost half a turn!
Incidentally - the HEPA filter experiment on the cabin air intake? Worked a treat. Cut a new one and replaced it and the old one looks almost black - the new one almost shines by comparison. Very much worth doing, especially since you can get 4 replacements out of one pack of paper..
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DFD702K.
May 21, 2019 17:43:35 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on May 21, 2019 17:43:35 GMT
Just got car back from garage with new electronic ignition and a "kw" competition needle to go with the new ram intake plenum. It's the one for the ST competition minis - 2 x HS6 were fitted to a bored out cooper engine with 11.25 compression and other goodies. I imagine an 1900cc B series decked to 11.25 with 2 x HS8 could be quite quick It's much quicker and smoother than before but it looks like the "tw" needle that was originally fitted looks slightly out of true. The "kw" needle progression is much like the standard "tw" but around 15-20% richer. This means it'll work with the pressurised intake. Smooth up to 70mph on mid throttle. Much more sensitive to choke than before. It'll take a bit of getting used to, because it's a lot quieter and producing more power, you can hit corners faster than you expect.
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DFD702K.
Jun 9, 2019 19:43:11 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Jun 9, 2019 19:43:11 GMT
First half tank since kw needle and 3% tune. A 15% improvement from 24.39 to a projected 28.05, what would be best described as extra urban. Much smoother, much quieter and noticeably quicker.
Have fitted LED stop/tail bulbs which have dropped (with other modifications) headlight circuit power drain from 150w/12v high beam to 106w and 120w/12v to 86w/12v low beam. The dimmer for the brake light circuit functions fine with the LEDS. No more flicker at idle and for reference the bulbs are BAY15D fittings, dual circuit stepped pins.
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DFD702K.
Jul 3, 2019 10:10:09 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Jul 3, 2019 10:10:09 GMT
Having worked out how to drive this with the new intake set up I've got a first tank result. The trick is to be very gentle with the accelerator, it'll now pick up with a feather touch, instead of a hoof, including on quite steep hills.
123.6 miles of extra urban - 28.63 to the gallon - an improvement of 15% on what it was doing before, and pulse & coast could improve that. For 60-70mph cruise assuming equal improvement 39+mpg. The parts are cheap, 2 x HS6 intake trumpets, a KW needle, and some tubing and two nuts/bolts assuming you are using the standard air cleaner box.
Choke is only needed for the first few seconds - then it can be put back to fast idle.
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DFD702K.
Oct 5, 2019 17:35:59 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Oct 5, 2019 17:35:59 GMT
Car is doing pretty well, fuel consumption is steady at about a 8% improvement. Needs choke a *lot* less and have adjusted fast idle so that actually works, even at 10°c you can be off choke in less than a half mile. Rev counter fitted in replacement for clock after three attempts. I will have to have an electric fan fitted because the air filter can BL engine temperature bodge doesn't work with a CAI (engine running too cool). Have made up a grille block with aluminium tape. Have some driving lamps to install when the H3 LED bulbs for them turn up - rated at 450lm from 1.5amps @ 3v, pretty much 900lm+ the pair. Going to use them as combo DRL lights amongst other things and possibly high beam replacement. At 3v is it worth fitting a relay? Does any one know whether I can get the rear light cluster to bodywork gasket anywhere? I need the left hand side one or both if they come as a pair.
In other news I've been diagnosed with fibromyalgia - only took them 37 years. Have started the Guaifenesin protocol and the massive levels of pain indicates its working. Explains the health problems I was having. Symptoms to look out for in teenage girls are pain in hips and front surface of thigh, pain in outer thigh and lower back without explanation, unexplained tiredness, and possibly palpitations. It's a genetic disorder to the best of current knowledge.
I'm considering adding a alternator (in my car mounted in addition to dynamo and running off the drive for the power steering pump that's gone south for the winter)-capacitor pack-12>48v converter and motor belted to the engine using the supercharger type pulley hybrid system, although I'd need a company to help me develop and install it. Planning to install the cap-packs in the large space over the front wheels. With a few changes it should work in the standard B series MGB too, if I can get any interest.
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Post by andrewa on Oct 5, 2019 23:40:52 GMT
Glad to hear car running well and Tony Wood probably the man to email re light gaskets. Don't want to hijack your car thread with a fibro discussion but would be interested to learn how the approach you're trying works out - perhaps send me a message when you're a bit further down the line with it if you wouldn't mind? Best wishes and good luck Andrew
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DFD702K.
Oct 7, 2019 11:26:09 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Oct 7, 2019 11:26:09 GMT
Glad to hear car running well and Tony Wood probably the man to email re light gaskets. Don't want to hijack your car thread with a fibro discussion but would be interested to learn how the approach you're trying works out - perhaps send me a message when you're a bit further down the line with it if you wouldn't mind? Best wishes and good luck Andrew The odd thing about the Wolseley is that it won't start without full choke - but you can be off choke almost before you pull away - just relying on fast idle. As for the guai protocol it's working so far - I had the most massive flare up, pain in hips and thighs so bad I got a months worth of codeine & went through it in a week! which is good because it shows the phosphate is being removed, but bad because the pain was so bad in right hip, braking and accelerator was hard to the point of dangerous, hot baths helped. You can't have caffeine or mint (or mint flavouring) & and no aspirin or salycilates. I'll drop you a message in a bit but you may have to remind me. Two slightly odd things with car - there is an odd waterfall sound sometimes behind the heater when the engine is fully warmed up (there's fairly fierce heat coming out of it so it works) - and the second speed on the wipers isn't a happy bunny for some reason, it doesn't seem faster than the first. Do you have TWs contact details? Tbh I need pretty much the whole set of light gaskets - the fronts, side repeaters, they've dried out being kept in a garage.
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Post by andrewa on Oct 7, 2019 15:22:14 GMT
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DFD702K.
Oct 22, 2019 13:33:32 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Oct 22, 2019 13:33:32 GMT
Well, had some fun. The indicators packed up and a little investigation found a rather warm indicator relay - full to the brim with water. I've hopefully got a replacement but I really don't know what to do with the car. Even if I can crowdfund a restoration (cue "attack of the baying millenials") - parts it needs are non existant - and more will invariably be needed because they *will* fail after being moved. Some can be sourced - some probably can't. On the top of that the only fuel available will slowly destroy the car anyway. I do 5000 miles a year which isn't much but anything I can afford will slowly be destroyed by the fuel probably quicker than the Wolseley (and that's anything previous to about 2014 with a petrol engine). I'm really not sure what to do.
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