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Post by tommydp on Jan 25, 2011 11:08:28 GMT
Hi! Does anyone know if it's possible to swap from cable change to rod change without further work to the mk 2 gearbox?
I've got a rod mechanism from an 1800 Princess, and this will not fit the mk2 gearbox. The three levers (first - second, third - fourth and reverse) going into the 'box are different length to those on the cable arrangement.
So, the question is: Is the rod mechanism on the mk 3 different to the mechanism fitted to the Princess? Unfortunately I can't get a mk 3 arrangement here, they were never sold in Norway so I haven't broken one..
Although the Princess gearbox fits the Crab engine, I can't use it as the differential is different giving trouble when it comes to the driveshafts. They won't go in as far as they should, as the Princess had cv type inner joints unlike the Crab's rubber joints. Currently I have the Princess box fitted, but the driveshafts wobble and are under too much pressure because they don't go into the box as far as they should. I'm going back to the original gearbox, as I'm putting in a reconditioned engine anyway. However I would like to have rod change rather than cables..
Thankful for any help:-)
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Post by Keef on Jan 29, 2011 14:18:41 GMT
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Post by sirrahn on Jan 31, 2011 3:29:42 GMT
Hi,
funny that I just looked up this board because I was having a problem with converting from the cables to the rod! I'll tell you what i know and then maybe ask my question and see if anyone can help me!
I am not sure whether there is a difference between the MK3 and the Princess, but apparently the rod change does need to be modified slightly to fit the Mk 1 & 2 - all that seems to be necessary is the middle finger needs to be lengthened slightly. Mine had already been done. pretty much the entire unit from shifter to the levers need to be swapped.
The other issue I had was that the exhaust needed to be rerouted slightly because the rod change heads down the central channel.
My gear change is now working in that I can select all gears, but it seems that something is wrong because the lever is moving too much, so it is also moving either side of the forks - meaning that finding the gears is difficult. I don't know if I have assembled it wrongly or something is missing, but I really need to fix this.
If anyone has some experience it would be great to know what the
problem might be? Or even, whether the problem is likely to lie in the
gearbox, where the rod meets the forks, or in the gear change
mechanism?
I don't have a diagram of how the rod change should look, so if anyone
has a diagram that could be sent, that would also be really welcome.
cheers,
Nathan
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Post by sirrahn on Feb 4, 2011 1:34:41 GMT
Hi tommydp,
it just occurred to me that you have a rod change and might be able to help me.
If it is easy do you think you could take a photo of the parts that go into the gear box and post it - then I can check if all the bits on mine are present and assembled correctly?
If you happen to have the control box open a photo of the inside of that - for comparison purposes - would be really handy as well.
cheers,
Nathan
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Post by charlypm on May 27, 2013 16:52:38 GMT
I'm not looking to swap, mainly because parts aren't available in the USA, but want to fix my oil leak. I've searched the list for a solution, but can't find anything.
Does anyone know of a way to fix the oil leak on the selector cables? I'm not sure why the oil is getting in to them, but I can't stop it from leaking out. What am I missing?
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Post by Penguin45 on May 28, 2013 0:51:13 GMT
We have a club night tomorrow, so I'll ask Mike and see what he says. I know it involves "O" rings and shrink wrap sleeving........
Chris.
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Post by charlypm on May 28, 2013 2:35:29 GMT
I've tried the shrink wrap and it held for a while and is leaking again. Didn't look at O rings
Thanks,
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Post by dave1800 on May 28, 2013 3:14:46 GMT
You may find the links from the Google Austin 1800 Group useful HEREThere are also some other discussions on that forum if you do a search. Regards David I've tried the shrink wrap and it held for a while and is leaking again. Didn't look at O rings Thanks, |
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Post by Peter Laursen on May 28, 2013 12:49:58 GMT
I have had a Princess gearbox fitted to my Wolseley MKI for years. The reason for the drive shaft not going in far enough is that there is a locking ring near the end of the splines. I therefore modified the Landcrab drive shaft by cutting a groove to fit the locking ring. As the drive shaft is now locked when inserted, I had to use a drive shaft from at later model with the sliding joint.
Regards
Peter from Denmark
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Post by Penguin45 on May 29, 2013 0:03:08 GMT
Hello Peter, welcome aboard, glad to see that you've signed up.
Good link from David.
Had an interesting chat with Mike and Tony this evening about cable changes (Oh, what exciting lives we lead.....). The jist of this is roughly as follows:
MkI cables will fill with oil. Sorry, they do. They're below the oil level in the power unit, so some oil is going to work its way down the cables and into the selector.
External leaks can be dealt with by stripping the cable off the gearbox plate and selector. Apply heatshrink tubing over the crimped ferrule at each end of the cable and shrink it down; then sleeve the entire length of the cable, including the sections that you have just sleeved. New "O" rings at the input ends and that is about as much as you can reasonably do.
There was a later set up, whereby the cables themselves had oil seals fitted. These could be replaced (if you can find them). If you can't, "O" rings can apparently be worked through the existing seal onto the cable and work reasonably well.
I think I'm quite glad to have a rod selector!
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on May 29, 2013 7:26:06 GMT
Were the MK11 cables less prone to leaking oil? I seem to recall early Mk1 cars carried more oil as well as some confusion over the dipstick lengths and markings? Regards David MkI cables will fill with oil. Sorry, they do. They're below the oil level in the power unit, so some oil is going to work its way down the cables and into the selector. Chris. |
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Post by threelitre on May 29, 2013 14:17:07 GMT
I remember that during the long life of our 1800 S one of the cables had to be changed some time in the late 80s - I cannot remember the exact reason. But it has always been reasonable oil tight (read: No drips here in Germany!) and the gearchange is not very light, but precise and has a good feel. I would not know why someone would go to the complication of changing everything over to rod change if the gearbox itself is in good shape. Ours has done now something in the region of about 200k miles (or much more?) - the car is in the family since about 130k miles and was sold to my father claiming about 10k miles as demonstrator, but was on its second engine, replacement interior, 4 worn wheel bearings ... yeah, sure! It was about the only S still available after some search (1973!) and after a test drive he did neither want a Maxi nor a standard 1800.
Regards,
Alexander
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Post by dave1800 on May 30, 2013 0:38:04 GMT
I agree, a properly adjusted cable change is precise and gives better feel than the rod change which although not bad had a slightly rubbery feel in comparison. My experience was that the rod change was a bit faster though. Early cables could suffer hydraulic lock up and the recommendation was to drill a small hole on the upper surface of the casing. All my cable changes used to be damp with oil but only an occasional drip. Regards David I remember that during the long life of our 1800 S one of the cables had to be changed some time in the late 80s - I cannot remember the exact reason. But it has always been reasonable oil tight (read: No drips here in Germany!) and the gearchange is not very light, but precise and has a good feel. I would not know why someone would go to the complication of changing everything over to rod change if the gearbox itself is in good shape. Ours has done now something in the region of about 200k miles (or much more?) - the car is in the family since about 130k miles and was sold to my father claiming about 10k miles as demonstrator, but was on its second engine, replacement interior, 4 worn wheel bearings ... yeah, sure! It was about the only S still available after some search (1973!) and after a test drive he did neither want a Maxi nor a standard 1800. Regards, Alexander |
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Post by kelsham on May 30, 2013 8:23:41 GMT
Dave is correct about the early dipsticks being incorrectly marked, this led to owners reaching the mark and adding a little extra. Who hasn't done that?
This led to the oil being churned up by the conrods and crank, the resultant frothing caused big end failure.
It took some time to discover the reason and much expense to BMC, it didn't help the cars reputation at the time.
Regards Kels
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Post by andrewa on Oct 27, 2013 8:38:49 GMT
Am interested in doing this swop as well - and found a great article with step by step instructions on how to do it and what mods are required. Unfortunately I didn't bookmark it ... once I find it again I'll post something on here.
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